Thread: Kat's Solid Door Version Work Bench WIP

Some changes to adjust to your working requirements to the orignial plans is a good start. Will be following this one.

Well I have drawn the bench, just have to add the castors (these are 100mm 140Kg rated castors with full brake. Fallshaw # MBQ100G/MZPTB) (I have lots of industrial suppliers that I use in my day to day business with electronics installations)

I have not put the dimensions in until I put the castors in, I am waiting for a data sheet so I can do that.

I have purchased an Eclipse 225mm (260mm opening) vice, these retail for $336+ I found one for $139 (it does have quick release

I can now from my drawing size all the timber (I will use this for estimations for timber sizes, the infill bits will be cut once I have measured the spaces left.

I am hoping to buy the materials this week Then I can start to post photos as I progress

G'Day Kat,
Have a look for a timber recycler or demolition yard to get your timber.
It'll be way cheaper plus often better than the new timber from the local hardward.
Enjoy you bench project.
Watching for the updates & photos.
Cheers, crowie

Crowie thanks for the tip, I found a local demolition yard with Jarrah 2x4's for $1.75lm I am going to buy 25-30 lm (I only need 18) so I can be a bit more selective at home and find some that can clean up well (plus I can use the others for other things

Castors are ordered, so they will be here sometime next week (the local dealer does not have the size I want and the QLD one had them at a good price (inc postage 4 for $157) These are better than the ones sold in Bunnings, they make Castors for Hospital beds, so must be good

Will look at the demo yard for a solid core door, I am trying to find one with no glass or pattens etc, If I cant I can get one from Bunnings for $110

I have worked out most of the fixings

What is the best way to fix a 4.8mm Masonite top to the door ? This is going to be a sacrificial top. I am wondering if I need to edge the whole thing ?

With Masonite does the shiny side go up or down ? I was thinking of going down with it roughed up, then the "waffled" side will stop screws etc rolling off, or is shiny side up better with a light sand ?


TIA

Kat.

Great buy on the jarrah Kat.
Don't worry about the pattern in the solid core door, just skin it with 12mm ply.
Cheers. crowie

OK so I will glue and clamp a 12mm ply top (This bench is slowly evolving

Should I put a surround on the bench ?? I am thinking to stop it de-laminating (as I do not want screw heads on the top, if I screw from under, I may see them as I plane the bench down over the years (In fact as my plaining skills suck on large flat areas I would be more likely to clamp a couple of temporary rails with a sled and router with a large bit (something like a 38mm Diameter, as I would only need to skim a mm or so each time

Thanks all, I am so excited about this, I am going to go hunting tomorrow for lumber at the salvage yard I am going to pick straight bits and then run them through the triton saw bench to square and get them better dressed Might have to flip on end as I think the max Heigh in rip is ~60mm Not sure if this is the best method, but I only own a #4 smoothing plane lol (also think plaining ~90mm width would be a lot of work in Jarrah

TIA

Kat.

Jarrah is too nice a timber for a workbench, I think... but that's just my opinion. I would just get a few lengths of 2x4 house frame pine. That would suit your plans by the looks of it. Also have you thought about a torsion frame for the top? A torsion frame is an inner frame made of say 2x4 timber veneered on the top and bottom with 12 mm or thicker plywood. Very light and very strong.

Originally Posted by GarciaJ

Jarrah is too nice a timber for a workbench, I think... but that's just my opinion. I would just get a few lengths of 2x4 house frame pine. That would suit your plans by the looks of it.

Gracia, It is more a fact of $$$$ I can get Jarrah second hand for $1.75 lm Pine from Bunnings is $3.76 lm

Originally Posted by GarciaJ

Also have you thought about a torsion frame for the top? A torsion frame is an inner frame made of say 2x4 timber veneered on the top and bottom with 12 mm or thicker plywood. Very light and very strong.

I agree with the lighter weight (by a few Kgs as a solid core door is not that heavy) But again cost ($110 for the solid door, is not much more than pine for framing and an extra sheet of 12mm ply, plus I would need to pack the spots for the dogs (which are now 90 or 70mm between sheets........)

I do appreciate the input thank you

Kat.

Originally Posted by Geekgirl

I agree with the lighter weight (by a few Kgs as a solid core door is not that heavy) But again cost ($110 for the solid door, is not much more than pine for framing and an extra sheet of 12mm ply, plus I would need to pack the spots for the dogs (which are now 90 or 70mm between sheets........)

I do appreciate the input thank you

Kat.

OK I have just re thought, the dog problem with a "Torsion box" If I use lengths of pine laminated to fill in for dogs (2 laminated on 90mm sides to make a 90 x 90) . Bunnings do not sell a sheet of ply 900 x 1800 that is 12mm thick so I would have to buy 1 extra full sheets at $43 + pine to make the box and provide enough meat around the dogs (make it full length for dogs) say 11m of pine @3.76 so total = ~$84 so I would save $26. I do not know if this would be that much lighter (the pine is worked out at a box then 4 battens inside (~450mm spacing) for the width and then back to back battens under all dog holes to fill in between battens inline with dogs. this does not take into account moving rails to miss dogs and leaving something over the bench bellow to pick up the weight...

So many compromises that I think a door and sheet of 12mm ply is the best option.

Regards,

Kat.

Originally Posted by Geekgirl

OK I have just re thought, the dog problem with a "Torsion box" If I use lengths of pine laminated to fill in for dogs (2 laminated on 90mm sides to make a 90 x 90) . Bunnings do not sell a sheet of ply 900 x 1800 that is 12mm thick so I would have to buy 1 extra full sheets at $43 + pine to make the box and provide enough meat around the dogs (make it full length for dogs) say 11m of pine @3.76 so total = ~$84 so I would save $26. I do not know if this would be that much lighter (the pine is worked out at a box then 4 battens inside (~450mm spacing) for the width and then back to back battens under all dog holes to fill in between battens inline with dogs. this does not take into account moving rails to miss dogs and leaving something over the bench bellow to pick up the weight...

So many compromises that I think a door and sheet of 12mm ply is the best option.

Regards,

Kat.

Kat, Bunnings aren't the only timber merchants and in fact really aren't.
Check out your local yellow pages & do a ring around for the ply & pine.
Also remember you do really need a good solid bench not an over weight kitchen table to do your woodwork.
Check through some of the older "woodwork bench" build threads for ideas, knowhow and encouragement to sort out your bench.
Cheers...Crowie

Thanks Crowie,

I do not think that the Torsion Box idea for the top will be that much chop as it will be weak with all the extra wood and dog holes on 150mm centres

I think it might actually be cheaper in the long run to laminate two solid core doors (this will give me a thickness of 70mm) and a sacrificial 12mm ply on top, this will take me to 82mm. Will this give me a stronger top than just laminating hardwood 2x4's ?

So many questions, one problem is the more complex I make the design the harder it is to build with limited tools (sure I have a battery drill, driver, jigsaw, circular saw. 1/2 Router, Triton Saw table and 235mm saw) but hand tool wise I only have a set of chisels, mallet, #4 smoothing plane. Current bench wise is a plastic imitation workmate and the triton saw bench.

Plus I am not an every weekend woodworker, I potter from time to time unless I get asked to do something or need a box for something lol.


Kat.

Hi geekgirl, I didn't mean to "wee on your fire". You have given this a lot of thought and I am sure that your Jarrah and solid core door bench will be great. Post some pictures when you are done. The torsion box is not a cheap alternative - its a purist's alternative - however they are very strong and very dimensionally stable and they can have dog holes (through the studs)... but then, the same can be said about solid core doors! )

Originally Posted by Geekgirl

Thanks Crowie,

So many questions, one problem is the more complex I make the design the harder it is to build with limited tools (sure I have a battery drill, driver, jigsaw, circular saw. 1/2 Router, Triton Saw table and 235mm saw) but hand tool wise I only have a set of chisels, mallet, #4 smoothing plane. Current bench wise is a plastic imitation workmate and the triton saw bench.

Kat.

You think you don't own many tools?

Originally Posted by GarciaJ

Hi geekgirl, I didn't mean to "wee on your fire". You have given this a lot of thought and I am sure that your Jarrah and solid core door bench will be great. Post some pictures when you are done. The torsion box is not a cheap alternative - its a purist's alternative - however they are very strong and very dimensionally stable and they can have dog holes (through the studs)... but then, the same can be said about solid core doors! )

Garcia, I did not take it that way, I knew you were being constructive It is more the comments are making the little thoughts become massive doubts in my design

I am thinking of looking around for cheaper pine and doing the original idea with the solid core door, maybe 2 if they are as light as I think