Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 84
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    469

    Default

    No need to worry about the presentation Kuffy.

    Its refreshing to see a YouTuber that explains their thoughts, makes mistakes plus shows the way to correct, while working in a small-ish shed without every tool possible (although I am envious of your bessey collection).

    Regards,

    Adam



    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    I got those besseys fairly cheaply in an overstock sale a few years ago. I think I will fill out the collection with Timbecon's new line of heavy duty Torquata parallel clamps. But not until I have heaps of cash, and most importantly need more clamps.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,166

    Default

    Well Kuffy, if it's any consolation, I learn a lot from your vids, without a doubt. Even if it's just the odd little thing, or some really cool tip. Like in the Part 4 vid, the tips about how by just doing a one off placement of the rails (with the square up from the table) you can't easily
    see if it has moved the slightest bit.

    I had just went and watched Vic from DUWW's earlier Aussie woodworkers spotlights, and his comments about you were spot on - always trying to impart something valuable for viewers, and producing great quality projects. Oh, and giving us all saw envy

  5. #34
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kuffy View Post
    I got those besseys fairly cheaply in an overstock sale a few years ago. I think I will fill out the collection with Timbecon's new line of heavy duty Torquata parallel clamps. But not until I have heaps of cash, and most importantly need more clamps.
    When was the last time those clamps were available? They're a Jet in a different colour, Timbecon obviously had a special batch made. The way the A$ has been traveling any current imports are going to be more expensive. I wonder if Timbecon waits until they have a certain level of interest before they order.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    I also really enjoy your videos, in fact you are prob one of my favourite woodworking youtubers. You show little tips which others either overlook or don't have the woodworking experience to know about. Also, I really like seeing how you use power tools and hand tools, it really demonstrates your skill and workmanship and sets you out from the average woodworking you tuber.

    What's your long term plan for YouTube, do you hope to go full time with it?

    How do the torquata/jet clamps compare to the bessey?

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    When was the last time those clamps were available? They're a Jet in a different colour, Timbecon obviously had a special batch made. The way the A$ has been traveling any current imports are going to be more expensive. I wonder if Timbecon waits until they have a certain level of interest before they order.
    I think waiting for interest levels in a product to be there before purchasing is a very likely and great strategy. It's not uncommon to put niche items on back order. When they come in, they generally send out an email saying the hot items are back in stock, and hopefully they sell out quickly. It seems bad for the punters, but if Timbecon and Carbatec are continuing to operate and grow using that strategy in this small market, then I am all for it.

    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post

    What's your long term plan for YouTube, do you hope to go full time with it?

    How do the torquata/jet clamps compare to the bessey?
    I haven't used the Torquata clamps, but they look alright and cheaper than the Bessey's.

    My long term plan for YouTube is to continue with it. I have loose plans of selling my house and buying a factory and living in the factory mezzanine. I had hoped I would be married with kids, but that just didn't happen so living inside a factory instead of a house full of dust seems appropriate. From there I can continue my work and producing videos which also generate small amounts of money. In time, as the channel is introduced to new people, the revenue will increase to become a tidy little chunk of change at the end of month (it's about 30-40bux/month at the moment). I doubt it will be enough to live off, though there is the possibility of it being 10's of $1000's each month and I could certainly live off that. But for the most part, I see it continuing as it has and when I am old and fat and completely bald I will be able to generate a small side income to offset the pension or superannuation or dividends or whatever the pittance that I will be living off then. In the end, I don't really know. I just know that this is what I am doing now and I don't really push for a certain goal and I have no dependents so I don't have any obligation or responsibility to push for better.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    469

    Default

    I've just started a separate thread on the difference between parallel clamps. Save hijacking kuffys post.

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    It was a holy time in my garage yesterday, and no I haven't found God. I met him (or her, it's 2020 now!) ages ago and he or she is cool. I wanted to get the front and rear frames assembled so I had to make sure to do the last few odd jobs before assembly. First up was to rout a groove in the underside of the front upper rail to accept the sliding deadman later on. I chose to do the job in a most unsafe manner using the router table because it was the easiest. The problem with it is that when I use a 2" long spiral bit in the router table, the router bit can't be lowered all the way below the table. Minimum is about 15-16mm above the table. 15mm is a bit much to be routing with the grain in one pass, expecially when I need to lower the material onto the cutter. Sure enough, just as I entered the cut, the damn thing grabbed and tore a chunk out at the entry (no photo). It wasn't bad or scary, just annoying because it only happened due to the cut depth. Ah well. Also because of the cut depth, the router bit was flexing and chasing the grain as it was cutting. It sounds awful, feels awful, and ends up with an awful edge surface as shown in the photos below. The photos show the after of me taking extra light passes to remove the jagged surface left by the initial cut.
    IMG_20200101_131639.jpg IMG_20200101_131705.jpg IMG_20200101_131712.jpg IMG_20200101_132125.jpg

    Then I could bore out some 3/4" holes along the upper front rail and also on the two front legs. I probably won't use the holes on the legs other than to store my holdfasts, but it's easy to drill a hole now into an individual component using a drill press rather than messing around with a hand drill later on. The top of holes along the upper front rail are slightly higher than the top of the HNT Gordon front vice shaft. This was so I don't shouldn't crash timber into the vice as I slide it along the dogs.
    IMG_20200101_150153.jpg

    With the easy tasks out of the way, I spent the rest of the day dry fitting and disassembling the frames to locate the drawbore pins. It's not difficult work, but it is tedious! First up I drill a hole straight through the side of the leg, through the mortise and out the other side of the leg. Then I assemble the joint, making sure to shoulder up the tenon good and tight with clamps and in the correct position. Then using the same drill bit, I can prick the side of the tenon through holes in the legs that I just drilled. This shows me the exact location of those leg holes on the tenon.
    IMG_20200102_100153.jpg IMG_20200102_100212.jpg IMG_20200102_100634.jpg

    From there I can move the pin pricks closer to the tenon shoulder by about 0.8mm. I don't crazy on this movement, because the further you move it, the more pressure you put the timber under. There isn't a huge amount of timber behind those holes so I play it cautiously. Then I drill the holes in the new location and reassemble the joint to check if I won or lost. It was 50/50 for the first joint.
    IMG_20200102_100724.jpg IMG_20200102_110034.jpg IMG_20200102_110040.jpg

    The circled hole is ok, not too much meat of the tenon exposed. But the crossed out hole has way too much meat exposed, and I'm pretty sure there are laws about that! So while the joint was assembled, I penciled the edge of the hole onto the tenon and disassembled again. From there I could use a chainsaw file and remove some of the meat so I end up with a nice neat amount of offset in the holes which won't exert to much pressure on the back of the tenon or onto the drawbore pin.
    IMG_20200102_125011.jpg IMG_20200102_125825.jpg

    I repeated that process for all of the drawbores, except for one. I couldn't bring myself to exert the drawbore pressure onto this gum veined tenon, I did drawbore the other part of that twin tenon though. So for the gum vein one, I waited until final assembly, got it in the clamps with glue everywhere, and using a hand drill I drilled through the side of the leg, through the tenon, and out the other side of the leg. Then I rammed a pin into the hole. It is just a pinned mortise and tenon, not drawbored. Still good but not as good as drawboring.
    IMG_20200102_135557.jpg IMG_20200102_135602.jpg

    Then I made some mini vampire stakes. I find it important to make sure the taper is long enough that it brings up the pressure on the drawbore gradually over a few hammer strikes, rather than having a very short taper and bringing up the pressure in a single strike of the hammer.
    IMG_20200102_160334.jpg

    Everything was done I think, so I could assemble the frames with glue. I assembled on top of my template that I made ages ago. This way if I built both the front and rear frames in the template but with opposing faces, everything will be the same but not necersarily 'square'. But being square isn't important. So long as it is flat on top, and flat on the bottom, happy days! Building on the template did mean I needed to drill some holes in the template to make way for the vampire stakes. I didn't get any final photos of the two frames. It seems I got them glued up and said "cya! wouldn't wanna be ya!" and got the hell outta there
    IMG_20200102_163555.jpg IMG_20200102_163706.jpg IMG_20200102_165256.jpg IMG_20200102_165307.jpg

    All of the joints pulled up tight, so I was one happy chubby. Upon inspecting the two frames this morning, there is a variance of 0.2mm between them. Not bad for mostly hand finished joinery with measurements being "whatever it is between point A to point B".

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    It's beginning to look like something! With the front and rear frames glued up and dry, I could then set to the task of installing the side rails. Firstly I needed to locate where the mortises go for the upper and lower side rails. The lower rail is easy because it is a known dimension from the ground, and the mortise is parallel to the edge of the leg. So it is a simple task of using the router with an edge guide and plunging the mortise. Piece of cake!
    IMG_20200103_104552.jpg IMG_20200103_112350.jpg

    The upper rail is a little more difficult to locate because it is not parallel to the edge of the leg, and in fact is square to the top but I don't have a definite square line along the top yet. I need to make sure I get the same location for both the front and rear frames otherwise it will pull things out of square and all sorts of other nastiness may occur. To do this, I marked a center line on the two frames using my template and clamped a piece of wood. From there I could measure across from the center line to the center of the mortise at the top and bottom of the frame. The mortise is only ~100mm long, but if I measure two points which are ~600mm apart, it minimises any inaccuracies in my pencil marks. This line also helps for when I rout out the mortises.
    IMG_20200103_103323.jpg

    Now knowing the center line of the upper mortise, I can measure out another line half the distance of my router base plate away from the mortise center line. Using a straight board (the actual side rail), I clamp this on my new line to use as a router guide fence. From there I can just plunge out the mortise being confident that the location will be "pretty damn close".
    IMG_20200103_122731.jpg IMG_20200103_122642.jpg IMG_20200103_131126.jpg

    I then squared up the ends of the mortises with a chisel and began working on the tenons on the side rails. I used my panel saw to hog away the waste off the tenon cheeks and to create deadly accurate tenon shoulders, trying to get super close to final dimension. I can only aim for super close because long router bits, or skinny router bits tend to chase the wood grain as they cut and therefore give something close to a 1/2" wide mortise, close being between 12.7mm - 12.9mm. I also hogged away the top and bottom of the tenon, leaving only the small web in the guts to be sawed and chiseled away by hand. And sometimes I get a little overzealous with the chisels and lever too much up. Oops, only did it 4 times
    IMG_20200103_170725.jpg IMG_20200103_171834.jpg

    A quick shave off the back tenon cheek and they were tighter than spandex on a 150kg woman, and perfectly square because that's how my panel saw is set.
    IMG_20200103_181239.jpg

    The lower side rails were supposed to be set back from the legs by 10.00mm. I missed, but I got pretty close given that I only eyeballed the center of the router bit on my marking gauge line....and then forgot to make a test cut first..lucky.
    IMG_20200104_133156.jpg

    Then I gave the faces of the side rails and the inside face of the legs a going over with my #5 smoothing plane. I've also chosen to give all of the edges varying amounts of chamfer. Big chamfer for the top, medium for the edges of the legs, and small chamfers for the rails etc. I was going to do round overs, but chamfers are masculine, and round overs are for shielas. It actually does change the overall look of the finished piece by quite a lot.
    IMG_20200104_153943.jpg IMG_20200104_155117.jpg IMG_20200104_155337.jpg

    Then I could setup the drawbores in the legs. Straight through with a 3/8" drill bit. These are blind drawbores because what would be the point in messing around drilling through 5" legs, when I only need to drill past the rail a little bit...
    IMG_20200104_173513.jpg

    Since I had to assemble each joint to find the locations of each hole that I drilled, I figured I would do a full dry assembly to check a few things. Firstly, to check to see if today's wet weather didn't swell any of the joints too much. It actually made the joints slightly looser, so that was nice because they were waaaay to tight to attempt a glue up with PVA on a warm dry day. I also checked to see if the frame had a natural square position or whether I would have to force it. I did have to force it which is easy enough by angling clamps. Then I checked the most important part of the base frame. I made sure that there was no wind or twist in the top by sighting over the front and rear rails, and also the side rails. The blue tape gives me a colour difference so my eyes can see, though the blue bandsaw behind the frame didn't help..lol. To the best of my ability, I can't see any significant twist in the frame. If I ever got a dining table frame to sit as flat as that, well...that'd be a first, because I don't even try
    IMG_20200105_123121.jpg IMG_20200105_123141.jpg IMG_20200105_123150.jpg

    Having transferred the location of the holes in the legs to the tenons, I could bore out the drawbore. I found a better way to photo the drawbore tunnel, just use the flash on my camera duh! You can clearly see the offset of the tenon hole compared to the hole in the leg. It may look like it's a lot, but its just a 10mm hole zoomed to the size of your screen. The offset is about 0.8-1.0mm.
    IMG_20200105_134155.jpg IMG_20200105_134253.jpg

    Then I could glue this bad boy up. Eight joints in the space of glue open time....no thanks. One joint each until I must do four at once. So I glued each rail in place into the back of the front frame and allowed that to set for about 30 minutes. Then I came back and slapped the back frame onto the four rails at the same time. While gluing the back frame on, I was wishing I had a massive chair press, because that would make it easy to press the front to the back. Then I realised I weigh "enough", so I used myself as the chair press. That actually got the joints most of the way to closing all the way up. A few well considered and heavy handed blows with a dead blow smasher and the joints were closed nice n tight. Pop on a few clamps, and then I could relax and punch in the drawbore pins and I was done. One bench base frame done, and one happy camper.
    IMG_20200105_162423.jpg IMG_20200105_171026.jpg IMG_20200105_173923.jpg

    By angling the clamps, you can manipulate the squareness of the frame. No need to run a clamp from corner to corner, because your just fighting the current clamps!
    IMG_20200105_173937.jpg IMG_20200105_173942.jpg

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,166

    Default

    while watching along on your build I wondered how far out of real-time the video releases were? Are they 1-day, 2-day, 5-days, 20-days ago? Like I'm half expecting that this bench to have already seen another project on it

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    The photos from my last post were taken at 5pm today. I'm back at work next Monday, so I have 7 more days to get this thing done which is doable except for the finishing. I'm gonna shine this baby up!

  13. #42
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    Well that won't fall apart in the first earthquake.

    Interesting that you can see some bar bend in the clamps in the last 2 pic's, you've certainly got them done up nice and tight. Considering this it has always amazed me that some clamp manufacturers continue to look for ways to generate even more force, you know, hex drives in the handles or 90* swivels in the handles. If you can't generate enough force just by turning the handle you need to go back to joint making #1. I blame Americans for this phenomenon with their constant comparisons of the force that can be generated with any given clamp. Enough is enough guys, you don't need any more than enough.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    Parallel clamps are F clamps. They are the same thing but with slightly different heads. The reason F clamp bars bend so easily is because the force is being applied a good distance away from the bar, just like I am doing in those photos. The bar will always bend in that scenario. Even if I was gluing up a 20mm thick side table top directly on top of the bars, they will bend if I exert a lot of pressure. I can keep them flat by backing off clamping pressure which is what I usually do. Or if I am wanting more pressure, I'll put clamps on both sides of the panel to even out the bend in the boards (I don't care what the bar does). My 1500mm long parallel clamps bend if I look at them, they are kinda sucky at that length tbh.

    Clamping pressure is important. I only just had enough pressure available to glue up the 3" thick tops with besseys. You need the pressure to squeeze the glue out of a wide surface, otherwise you end up pressurising a layer of glue and end up with fat glue seams unless you are able to shimmy the boards back forwards a bit while under pressure. I have worked with a few different rotary clamp racks. Those things are good. You can literally crush hardwoods with the pressure you can apply, just by increasing the air pressure

  15. #44
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

    Default

    It's looking great. Was it also an option to put the top side rail on an angle and ripping/planing the top edge on an angle so it's flat?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

  16. #45
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    I wasn't having a shot at you or the Besseys Kuffy, Besseys are fine clamps. But, I bet you didn't find the need to do them up tighter then you could with your hand? If people are able to do them up so tight that the clamp is significantly distorted there's simply no point. All it does is put the clamp components under so much pressure that breaking becomes a real possibility and they become so distorted that they're not doing the job you want them to do anyway. Now if the bars were 20 x 40mm instead of 30 x 8mm. But, of course, then we wouldn't want to use them because of the weight. Time for the carbon fibre parallel jaw wood clamp.

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Workbench build (yes, another workbench thread)
    By ajw in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 15th March 2018, 01:39 PM
  2. Kuffy's Hall Table. WIP
    By Kuffy in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 23rd April 2017, 02:03 PM
  3. Wooden hand plane built by Kuffy
    By Kuffy in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 5th November 2016, 08:33 PM
  4. A temporary workbench to build a workbench on
    By doug3030 in forum THE WORK BENCH
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 23rd October 2016, 07:46 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •