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Thread: My massive french workbench
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12th March 2011, 05:26 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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Cookie, you are correct. The issue on this one is probably that it was clamped one side only, but also could have been that the thicknesser bed was not quite parallel so the timber is clamped perfectly together and has now formed a radius as the timber was not uniformly thick.
It's no biggie to fix, Lance. You might need to fix it first before you go on to the sub frame, so you've got a level surface for the mortices, etc...
Episode 11. Flattening the workbench
You do want a flat top (out of wind and no cupping/crowning) - makes it hard to get anything flat and straight if the bench isn't flat first, especially on thin stock that flexes under pressure.
Looks good - less than a term to almost finished. You should get there easily.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers,
eddie
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12th March 2011 05:26 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th March 2011, 12:59 PM #17
I don't own a scrub plane but I do have an electric plane. I've used it to roughly flatten wide boards with great success. I then finished with hand planes.
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13th March 2011, 09:12 PM #18Intermediate Member
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Doesn't look hard in the video.. ill get the bench flat hopefully within the next few days.Thanks Eddie for providing the info
Cheers lance
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14th March 2011, 11:03 AM #19
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18th March 2011, 06:14 PM #20Intermediate Member
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slow progress this week managed to get the long stretcher done this afternoon and tomorrow im dressing my last leg
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18th March 2011, 09:35 PM #21
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19th March 2011, 02:54 PM #22Intermediate Member
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3rd April 2011, 07:37 PM #23Intermediate Member
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G'day
I had a busy week bought a new car unfortunately no time for the workbench but i have the whole week so i can focus on my workbench woohoo plenty to do this week
-flattening bench top
-laminated end stretcher
-drill out mortise
When i was marking out the position of my mortise on the leg i couldn't decide if i should have the long stretcher flush with the leg any suggestion?
I practiced drawboring for the first time surprisingly simple I used a 1.6 mm off set towards the shoulder but i found when using the drawbore pin to line the hole up it never had to be wedged through the tennon it just inserted easily, so next time i will try using a 2mm off set . Any suggestions on the appropriate offset taking into consideration the size of this joint and i will be using 2 drawbore pins on one joint
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3rd April 2011, 10:01 PM #24
I've just been through the draw boring thing with my bench frame and received lots of advice from Wouldwood. For blind draw boring on big blind M/T joints a 2mm offset was about right using 1/2" dowel about 1" from the shoulder.
WW recomended 10mm dowel about 15mm from the shoulder, and my feeling is that this would have worked better with a 1-1.5mm offset. Being the first time I'd done it and not having practiced before hand like you I've probably over done it somewhat."Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
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3rd April 2011, 11:13 PM #25Intermediate Member
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Thanks Dave ill give that another shot 15mm from the shoulder hopefully give me a tighter joint.Your bench is coming along nicely i noticed your long rails are flush to the legs and your short aren't seems like a good idea.How far off the ground is your rail? i was planning for mine to be about 5 inches.
cheers lance
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4th April 2011, 09:03 AM #26
Only the front stretcher is flush as this will form part of the work holding functions of the front of the bench, the rear stretcher is inset about an inch. Same with the short ones, these are centred in the legs because they don't need to serve any other function.
Ground clearance is 150mm all round. The idea was to make it a little more than neccessary becuase I've made the bench height at the upper most limit of the scale for someone my height. If I decide it's too hgih I have the option to cut the legs shorter and still maintain clearance."Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
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4th April 2011, 10:29 AM #27
Lance, for the draw boring, also check your dowel size. Some of the dowel I had was marked as 10mm but was actually 3/8". 3/8" is 9.525mm so a bit of slop in a 10mm hole.
I used 10mm dowel, some of it hand made with a dowel plate , and a 1.5 to 2mm offset with the bore located 15mm from the edge. Worked extremely well. Make sure your dowels are tapered as well. They need to gradually pull the tennon in. I broke a couple of dowels on test joints that had too much offset.
If you do get it wrong on the final assembly you can always glue a dowel in the tennon and redrill it in the right spot.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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4th April 2011, 04:58 PM #28Skwair2rownd
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That will certainly be one nice, solid bench!! Like the detail in your WIP Teakman!!
Keep it coming!
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5th April 2011, 10:32 PM #29
Rather than draw boring why not go for tusk tennons and have the practically of knock down assembly also. I did a barbeque table this way and found that every few months the wedges need a tap with a mallet but when that is done it is solid as a rock. Must be changes in humidity that work them loose.
Regards
John
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5th April 2011, 11:03 PM #30Johnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
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