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Thread: MDF bench top

  1. #1
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    Default MDF bench top

    I have just finished replacing the top on my old bench with 16mm MDF. I used the same for the skirts

    I am not sure what to do about putting a finish in the surface and edges? What do people suggest

    Thanks

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  3. #2
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    Hi there.

    I made a Rob Crossman bench with mdf top about 18 months ago. The edges I rounded off with a router to stop the corners braking off. About 4 or 5 coats of mixed linseed oil and turps keeps the top usable so I can spill water or glue without having stuff soak in. I thought I might be replacing the mdf regularly but it's holding up very well.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

  4. #3
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    I would not round over the edges of the top - square edges are important and useful when planing and aligning boards. Instead, add a laminate of hard wood around the edges. Tassie Oak is a good, cheap choice. Peter, I would add a layer of MDF to the top of your bench to repair the round over, and then add a surround.

    The problem with MDF is that it wants to be a sponge. It needs to be very well sealed and made absolutely waterproof. As soon as moisture gets it, it will swell. You do not want to plane down the top surface as this is a hard "shell" and that below is softer. I would use an oil-based poly on all the surfaces (before adding the wood surround).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #4
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    How thick is your top? 16mm isn’t very thick and MDF is notorious for sagging unless it’s well supported.

    I would follow Derek’s advice and coat every face and edge with a varnish or paint to avoid moisture being absorbed; additionally I would also add a sacrificial top layer that can get scratched, dinged and cut. A layer of thin ply would be fine, or even a layer of 3mm MDF. Something cheap and easy to get hold of that you can just rip off and throw away as soon as it gets damaged enough to affect your work.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by man from uncle View Post
    I have just finished replacing the top on my old bench with 16mm MDF. I used the same for the skirts

    I am not sure what to do about putting a finish in the surface and edges? What do people suggest
    any finish that is waterproof

    However, first replace rout out a channel in the 16 mm thick skirt to accommodate a 19 x 19 hardwood (Tassie Oak?) lipping.
    Use your trim router (or a full size one) to flush the lipping to 16 x 16 mm
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by petersinc View Post
    I made a Rob Crossman bench with mdf top about 18 months ago. The edges I rounded off with a router to stop the corners braking off. About 4 or 5 coats of mixed linseed oil and turps keeps the top usable so I can spill water or glue without having stuff soak in. I thought I might be replacing the mdf regularly but it's holding up very well.
    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I would not round over the edges of the top - square edges are important and useful when planing and aligning boards. Instead, add a laminate of hard wood around the edges. Tassie Oak is a good, cheap choice. Peter, I would add a layer of MDF to the top of your bench to repair the round over, and then add a surround.
    Hi Derek
    I'm counting four (16 mm ?) MDF layers in Peter's bench.
    Replacing the rounded over edge could be done by routing out an 18 x 18 channel and gluing in a 19 x 19 square Tassie Oak lip. I'd use Polyurethane glue and flush trim the lipping to the bench top.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #7
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    Ian, I wonder if we are just using different terms? I would rebate all around with a router, 18x18 (or there abouts would be fine), and fill it in with 18x18 Tassie Oak. That would create a square edge to the top and flush with the sides. Then I would laminate Tassie Oak around the sides. This would leave just the top to protect from moisture.

    It is a lot of extra work to do when building a MDF bench top. MDF is so tempting to use because it is cheap and flat. It then needs to be babied to keep it flat.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  9. #8
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    I have been fortunate enough to acquire granite bench tops that are left over when sink is cut out should be able to get some at fair price in your location.

  10. #9
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    Granite for a workbench? Ummm.....that seems like a bad idea...

    The benches at my old work were all 32mm MDF, no finish at all and they were dead flat

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    How thick is your top? 16mm isn’t very thick and MDF is notorious for sagging unless it’s well supported.

    I would follow Derek’s advice and coat every face and edge with a varnish or paint to avoid moisture being absorbed; additionally I would also add a sacrificial top layer that can get scratched, dinged and cut. A layer of thin ply would be fine, or even a layer of 3mm MDF. Something cheap and easy to get hold of that you can just rip off and throw away as soon as it gets damaged enough to affect your work.

    The 16mm is on top of thick timber, it was just the replaceable bit.
    So no danger of sagging. I didn't do edging. But will maybe do that when it needs changing.

    I think oil based poly is the way to go. Ill try and see what happens, just worried about edge swell.

    Thanks

  12. #11
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    I once bought a bit of 32mm MDF. Full sheet..... hhhhoooolllyyyy hell was it heavy!

    MDF works fine for tops... the Festool MFT is famous for it.

    I left mine unfinished. Just gave it a sand with the ROS 120grit occasionally.


    If I were tempted to "finish" it, I'd probably just pour shellac or polyurethane all over it and flatten it with a ruler while it dried.

    I'd follow the others advice about adding the trim and faces. Sensible.

  13. #12
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    50:50 shellac and poly mix for the surface. Several coats with a light sand in between. There's a thread about it somewhere in the forum.
    I edge with recycled hardwood, so don't know how it would do on the MDF edges.

  14. #13
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    if used on top of existing bench I personally don't have any problem at all and most times they don't cost anything.

  15. #14
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    I have been using MDF for bench tops for many years. My method is two 16mm melamine coated sheets screwed to the bench frame. No glue. Turn the top sheet when the surface becomes too damaged. Once that surface has seen better days, flip the entire top, bringing the bottom sheet to the top. This sheet can now be turned over to give yet another fresh surface. Scratched or cover sheets cost nothing.

  16. #15
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    I did 2 coats of poly. The first coat was thinned with white spirit to seal it. I plan on at least two more coats. Looking good already

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