Thread: Outdoor workbench- ground support and finish

Garth,
A strange one but I guess it is doable. Is it worth the effort is another question. It is nice to work outside sometimes and something like a couple of trestles and a solid core door can be set up in no time then stowed in the garage when not in use. However if you are intent on this here are some points to ponder on.Ironbark will stand some weathering but not sure on the tas oak. The concrete pads should work but a small slab would be better. Spreading the load over a larger area. As for finishing I would use decking oil and repeat as often as required. You will likley need to re oil at least every year. For construction I would use gal bolts and screws. Think barbi table on roids. Glued M&T joints will not like being out in the weather. I would not glue up a solid top either as it will move and warp. Screw the top boards to farme with a small gap between boards for expansion. Best if the screws come up from under so less water entry points. There is likley a lot more so lets see what others think.
Regards
John

Three to five coats of marine epoxy on all faces of the timber to encapsuate it, then a few coats of varnish over the top to protect from UV. Works for boats.....

There's no oil finish that will stand up to the weather in any really protective way, unless you are slopping it on every few weeks as needed... Shellac will dissapear after a few weeks and will offer no UV protection.

Can you hang it off the back of the shed? Gal frame with fibre cement sheet top? Certainly weather resistant.

Or, make a "normal" bench, put wheels on it and wheel it in at night.

Anything else sounds like too much work for unfavourable results.

Cheers,
Virg.

Thanks guys for the replies!

Sorry in advance for the longish post- I seem to be using 10 words these days when two will do- but if it saves another 8 later, well...

It's a strange one because of where the shed and plumbing is- the shed is right next to this paving BUT it's a small one so I have to make best use of indoor/outdoor area.

There will be two small benches inside the matching small shed (3.6 x 2.5), one a 'mini' woodwork bench at 2m x ~.7m, the other a small 1m square framing table. There is also router table, saw table etc that are on castors and can be wheeled out when needs be.

This is then next to normal backyard that wife wants to be kept normal.

Admittedly the 'normal' (and also small) backyard will have a ahem... picnic bench which may accidentally serve from time to time as a sanding/finishing bench.

Your advice made me think what can this provide that other solutions can't and I came up with:

1. I wanted a woodworkers 'mechanics' version of a workbench that I can be rough with compared to the daintier movable shed bench. It also needs to firmly hold my trusty Dawn no10 and a shoulder vise.
2. This is the most convenient position that I can work on longish planks for tables etc that couldn't be done inside the shed.
3. The fold down part- this is not only a weather cover, but a sunbed for bits of wood that I may want to UV at times. I will have other areas to do this, but none as convenient and wife-naggingly safe as this

I've got the timber which although weathered is stable and flat, it's come out of an 1880's house, and has withstood 10 odd years of unsealed outdoor storage without any dramas so I am fairly confident it will behave.

I'm not fussed about repeating coats of oil, but was interested in tung because I though it was something that would 'dry' properly, and present a re-usable finish for the wood if I ever decided to re-use the wood for industrial furniture.

Master Splinter- If the wood is sealed properly is there a need for the UV protection besides stopping it getting a suntan/patina?

Since I've got the stuff and the tung will go off anyways, I am tempted to try both on it as a 'test bench' for the two finishes, this is more curiosity than being 'ornery as the hard shellac is supposed to only be one pencil hardness under poly according to some literature, so surely the cross linking should give some outdoorishness to it's properties?
I'll try the hard on an easily removable spot since if that fails, it's got to come off.

Either way, you've made me learn a fact today that my wife will listen to with abated breath regarding caulking chinese junks with tung oil and ground lime.

If it works I'll post up some pics....

If it doesn't I'll post up some pics of what a marine epoxy sealed tung finish looks like

Dammit John! Although I didn't think I posted how I was going to fix the joints- you've read my mind! I've decided to go with M&T with steel rods & dowels instead of epoxy glue now. I can imagine the epoxy holding up and doing such a good job it will keep water around the joints and wear...

Another question though- I have 2x6 and 4x4 to choose for legs. I would dearly love to save the 4x4 for actual work stock. That would leave me to choose which way to face the 2x6- one way would be better for wracking, the other better for the mortise. Any thought's would be appreciated...

Virg, good suggestion, I considered it at one stage (esp with inside bench) but if I hung it off the back of the shed it's right over the plumbing, won't hold me voice, and will get in the way of the door. It may not be up to the knocking I'll give it either

I think the litlle fella in the shed will go on wheels so I can take him into the front backyard for a run when the wife goes out

Cheers,
Garth

The UV protection is for the epoxy - its the one weak spot that epoxy has, so it either needs to be varnished or bulked up with an oxide or other UV blocking filler.

Garth,
When I said avoid M&T joints I had more in mind than the glue failing. The tennon will expand and contract with moisture or lack of it. This will cause the joint to become loose. A bolt can be nipped up any time anything is loose. Look at the construction of barbecue tables. Ment for outside use and usually no complex joinery. There is one M&T that you can use and have knock down construction too and that is a loose tennon secured with a wedge. Any time anything feels loose then tap in the wedge a bit more. No glue,bolts,pins or dowels and very solid too.
Regards
John

Any time anything feels loose then tap in the wedge a bit more.

That's what I was meaning with the steel bolts and steel dowels- I'd use M&T for assembly/location (these are seriously heavy, dense pieces of 2x6 so some kind of seating with knockdown would be nice) and the metal fixings for tightening when needed.

Half barbecue/half old school workbench- hopefully best of both worlds

The tung should get sucked into the joints via capillary for some vague semblance of waterproofing

Although I would much prefer a wedged tenon, I'd have reservations with outdoor weather on the wedge holes long term capability of not splitting/cracking.

I suppose I could put them in and still have the other option if splitting happens

They would look a lot nicer- esp with brass wedges but I could imagine that playing even more expansion havoc with the joint...

Cheers,
Garth