Thread: The Perfect Workbench?

Darryl

I would plan the spacing and positioning of the round dog holes very carefully.

(1) Make sure that they are lined up with your vise(s) in such a way that they do not cause the vise(s) to rack.

(2) The maximum distance between the dog holes must not be wider than your vise can be extended.

(3) Run dog holes both lengthwise and widthwise for greatest functionality (assuming you have both face and end vises).

(4) 3/4" dog holes will enable you to use standard Veritas Bench Dogs.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Darryl

I've followed this thread with interest but refrained from hurling in my 2 cents at the risk of sounding like a bench bore, but now I can really help!

Derek made some very good points (one of these days I'm going to Perth just so I can buy this fella a beer) about dog holes but I would add:

1. make damn sure that all the holes are as close to square as you can get them. I stuffed up the first one I drilled and I can't sleep nights;

2. make sure you don't drill through anything that's got something underneath it. The front vise on mine has a spacer between itself and the bench top which caused problems and I had to drill some half holes through the top of one of the stretchers legs. Remember the screws of the vises, hardware, etc.;

3. an easy way of drilling the holes is with an el-cheapo drill press from Bunnies. I can post a picture of mine if you wish, but they're about 18" high, press arm and a small table that you mount a normal hand drill in. You can spin the drill around and clamp the base to the table. A forstener bit in one of these will blunt itself after 58 holes, but all is square in love and benchtops...(sorry);

4. If you're not using a quick release vise, halve the distance that Derek suggested between holes to reduce the risk of RSI and put some holes close to the jaws for small pieces.

All the best,

Al.

(I used to have a life before I took up woodworking)

Darryl

A couple more points (Al jogged my grey matter with his points above - Al, come to Perth. I'll take you up on that drink!):

(1) I think the easiest way to drill perpendicular (round) dog holes without a drill press is to do so with a router. If the hole is not large enough, then use the hole as a pilot for your drill, into which you then use a larger drill bit.

The alternative to a router is a drill and a dowel guide.

(2) If you are going for square dog holes, then I think it may be easier to cut them with a dado blade (two boards folded over and dadoed, then joined together to form the square hole). Clean up with a sharp chisel and a fence.

My bench has both square and round dog holes. I find that I use the round dog holes almost all the time.

Regards from Perth

Derek

The best bench I was lucky enough to use was in the woodwork class at school. They had only started replacing all the wooden planes with Stanley ones. I always picked a wooden plane because it felt better in use. almost 45 years later & the school may be forced to close before long.
I have to keep my eyes open for any sale of old school items.
One of those old carpenters benches would do me nicely.

Darryl,


I am currently reading a book from my local library written by Sam Allen called " Making Workbenches".
It has 160 pages dealing with planning, building (including sketch plans and diagrams) and outfitting the various types of workbenches.
Might be worth your while getting hold of a copy.


Peter.

I haven't been in a library in years Not sure why, just haven't got around to it or haven't found the need.

I did order the other day a 3 book set from Amazon - The Workshop Book, The Workbench Book, and The Toolbox Book - all supposed to be very good. Should be here this coming week all being well.

I picked up a Record bench screw today, so that's the hardware for the tail vise. Looked at the Record 52 1/2 vise as well - nearly bought it. Still seriously contemplating whether to go for the Record or for a Veritas type front vise. I kinda like the idea of the Veritas - more wood in it's construction and should be easier to place dog holes in in the front jaw. The Record has more bulk (though I'm not sure I need that), and the quick release.

I have been contemplating putting two front vises on (I have a smaller Record 52 on the current bench), but I don't think now that's such a good idea at all - would just crowd the front of the bench, and I can place a board with dog holes vertically on the right side to support long boards I guess. Anyone have this arrangement?

I have just read a workbench book by Landis (i think) and thought i would add a couple if thoughts. Ply on the back of a frame will eliminate rackin if it is secured well. Against a wall it wil not hinder shelf access either. Also have a look around for bench ideas where they employ a bearer type support for the work top. In the book i saw there was one bench where the front half only was secured and the rear half slid back on the bearer if a gap was needed and if a hold down was needed you could use an f clamp. The front half was around 450 to 500mm so the area was very large enough for most jobs. The bearer design facsinated me though as it provided a tool rest place below the bench but did not compromise the bunch top or be at risk of having tools bumped off when moving around a work peice. This area is also big enough for clamps if you are assembling. You couldn't fit that in a tool tray. A set of sash cramps to the back section turns the whole top into a big B&D workmate style top. It was very interesting IMO and was a mix of old and new. I am racking my brain for a way to use the gap as a sweep hole hooked to the dust collector. You have probably made you bench by now but i am still in the pondering phase and looking for a variety of solutions. The book is available from carbatec and i thought it was fantastic with a wide variety of ideas and approaches to suit different work styles.

Not exactly finished yet - but a fair way down the track. The base frame is done. I went for a traditional style, kinda - rails top & bottom instead of just in the middle. I'll build separate drawer units to slide in on the rails. They're joined to the end frames with through tenons. The end frames are built with through tenons at the top and tenons at the bottom.

The top is 2/3 finished now. It's around 65mm thick in rose maple. The flattening process is fun At least it's giving me some practice time with my planes - a LOT of it I have some 150 x 40mm bluegum to use as the skirt. Haven't decided between dovetails and finger joints for the corners joints yet.

Haven't decided on the end vise yet - thinking my old Record 52. Face vise will be a Record 52 1/2. I picked up a portable drill press attachment to drill round dog holes.

Pics are below. End frames are yellow cedar, rails are jarrah.

I like the contrast of timbers
I'll be keen to see the final product
GP

This very late reply to this thread relates to my case of workshop envy , everytime I read about the size of some of the workshops you all have at your disposal.I am interested in cabinetry and picked up a 2nd hand lathe just to try out and see if I like woodturning. I have big dreams and little space. I am awaiting the arrival of a 3.8mx3.0M shed that will be my workshop! I have searched your archives about workbenches and will try and get hold of issue 19 of AWR for a plan.Could someone tell me if it is wise to have benches that are mobile as space is at a premium and I will have to compromise and move things around to work.
1. I have a lathe 1.2m on a homemade fixed bench and want to know if it can be put on wheels and still work accurately.
2.A triton MK3 (top only) and want to know if I should fix it permanently or should I buy the stand they recommend and keep it more mobile.(Apologies if I should have posted this part in triton users :confused: )
I don't know what is important,I am guessing workbench first,but then what drill press,saw table(e.g.the triton MK 3 that I have),a bandsaw, a small dust extraction system(homemade or bought).I doubt there is room for a thickenesser?!

Aljenit, try the mobile table idea from New Yankee Workshop. The table can be moved on castors then the casters raised to lock the table to the floor.
http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?0207

I intend using this idea on a few benches both lightweight and heavyweight.

Aljenit,

I was reluctant to reply because I don't want to add to your Workshop envy ailment.

As your workshop is relatively small I would go for mobile benches and tool stands. A lot of bench tools ( including a drill press) can be bolted onto a board which can be clamped in your workbench vice so I would put a couple of extra vices in your workbench. This will help with your limited space.

In regards to the MK3 you can buy the stand with wheels ready to assemble fromTriton or you can make your own stand with wheels. Either way it will work fine.

As to which is important, that depends on your needs, however I would strongly recommend a home made dust collection system untill you can get a proper D/C.

My posts on the Triton dustbucket modification or other's posts on a minicyclone with vac would be helpfull to look at.


Peter.

Darryl,

dude, that is really classy. great job, is it done yet?

Aljenit,
I have just about the smallest woodshop in existence and love having mobile bases on everything...except my bench. have a good one!
-ry

Gee ryanarcher
From what I see of Aussie workshops they are usually huge in comparison to our garage workshops in Blighty.
Standard garage is 16'x8'.
I considered mine huge when I made it 20'x10' (ouside dimensions for both)
So little space that I have to get a shed to house the gardening tools, mower, shredder etc. before I can treat myself to a small lathe & thicknesser.