Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 6 123456 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 86
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Lakehaven, NSW, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    995

    Default The Perfect Workbench?

    I've been contemplating it for a while, but I think it's time to build myself a decent workbench. Since I discovered handplanes, the old bench just doesn't cut it any more. It was one of my first projects 3 years ago, so I can't complain really.

    I ducked out this morning to the newsagent and before I realised it I was loading up the car at the Wood Centre at Toronto. Got a great deal on some nice 38mm Rose Maple planks and 100mm square Yellow Cedar. Peter looked after me as usual

    So now I have the project and the timber, so I just need to work out exactly how I want to build it.

    I've done the usual searches, got several designs in magazines & books, ordered the Workbench Book - but what makes the perfect workbench?

    I have a Record 200mm quick release vise on the current workbench, and I'd like to use that on the new one. I've been looking at options for vises - maybe the Veritas twin screw, maybe a shoulder vise, maybe a tail vise. I've been thinking about a second vise on the front, perhaps using my current vise on the right getting a larger one for the left. Maybe the big Record or the Veritas front vise. I like the idea of the wooden jaws of the Veritas.

    I know I want to use bench dogs - but should I go for the Veritas round ones, or a square dog? How handy are bench stops (the pop-up type)?

    I'm not going to go build a dovetailed showpiece - just a good, solid, useable bench that will serve me well for years I hope.

    So what do you like & dislike about your bench? Found the perfect design yet?
    The Australian Woodworkers Database - over 3,500 Aussie Woods listed: http://www.aussiewoods.info/
    My Site: http://www.aussiewoods.info/darryl/

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Greetings,

    My bench has gone through several re-incarnations. In its present form I have a double thicknesss of 25mm ply glued together forming the front 400mm of the top with 35mm thick pine planks edge to edge at the back.

    A 50mm thick ply top all over would have been even better, but I had the 35mm boards and the 25mm ply came as a 400mm wide off-cut, saving quite a deal on the cost. You'll know what I mean when you price 25+mm ply !

    The 50mm thick ply (2 x 25mm glued) has all the strength that I need at the front of the bench where most of the heavy duty action takes place.

    A flat top is most usefull. I had it originally with a center channel, like the benches were when I went to school (way back when). The only thing that the centre channel did was cause things to tip over and make it almost impossible to assemble anything on the top of the bench.

    I have a quick action record vise in the standard position at the left. The quick action vises are certainly the way to go if buying new. As the man said, it's a bit like air-conditioning, you can get along perfectly well without it, but once you've had it you wonder why you didn't get it years ago.

    The most usefull addition by far (and the reason for the last change to my bench) has been a patternmakers vise. I bought mine from Carbatec (a knock-off of the Veritas ? patternmakers vise, but "only" around $300.00 on special).

    I have the patternmakers vise fixed at the right hand end where it serves as a traditional tail vise. I put in a double row of (19mm or 3/4") dog holes in line with the patternmakers vise dogs. It's just the bees knees for holding down boards for planing.

    I used round dog holes. Square is the traditional shape but they are far more difficult to make and any accessory has to be square also. You can then make your own dogs with something as simple and cheap as 19mm dowel. I have them at several different lengths and you can easily make them to suit a special purpose.

    The only drawback in using the patternmakers vise as a tail vise is that its moveable jaw is a little further away from the end of the bench than a standard tail vise. This means that there is not quite as much support underneath really short boards, athough I have not found it to be a big problem.

    The real advantage is with the patternmakers vise. It rotates, swings up and can clamp with the jaws at an angle to each other. It's marvelous for working on irregular shaped pieces (like chisel handles). The rotation and swinging actions allow you to hold almost anything at just the right angle.

    If you go for a patternmakers vise - a word of warning ! Buy the vise before you build your bench. It needs quite a lot of room underneath the bench to allow it to swing up, so you will need to design the bench accordingly.

    Finally I would say "Make it solid !". A solid bench won't walk around the floor when you are doing heavy planing, etc.

    Regards
    Last edited by Rebus; 25th April 2004 at 12:46 AM.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    South Australia
    Age
    51
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Use the record vise as an end vise and visit Carbatec for an copy of the Veritas large front vice(offset thread) for around $130.00, they are made in Eastern Europe, you won't be disapointed.
    Regards
    Tony

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    Darryl,

    If you want to make your workbench rock steady, you might like to use the arrangement shown in this pic for the stretchers. The 8" hex-head bolts keep the bench really solid, and you can use 2 by 4s for the stretchers rather than expensive hardwood, as you would need to do, if you used morticed joints.

    Rocker

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    Rebus,

    You could get over your problem with using your vice as a tail vice with short boards if you got a couple of Veritas wonder dogs; see

    http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...45&ccurrency=3

    Rocker

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Age
    57
    Posts
    132

    Default

    When I built my bench a few years ago, I too was not looking for something pretty but a good SOLID bench that would be suitable for hand tools...eg PLANES.

    I found some old Jarah fence posts and some timber salvaged from an old pergola worked a treat. after cutting off the ends and planing away the old paint and grey weathered exterior there was some beautiful rich woodgrain hidden underneath.

    As for the bench top I went to my local door manufacturer and purchased a solid core door ( secound's ) with minor discolouration and a few scratches for 30$ . All I had to do was cover with a few coates of polyurathane and some hardwood edging and presto one rock solid dead flat work bench.

    I installed 2 vices , both records. a 52 1/2 and a 53 as a end vice and have never been unhappy, also drilled some 3/4 inch holes in 2 directions and use brass dogs( veritas pups and wonderdogs) the brass gear I was lucky enough to be in Canada for vacation so filled up my luggage with some goodies.

    I suppose its all personal preference really, I don't care what the bench looks like( allthough its not ugly ) as long as it works as the only person that sees it is me, and my other half who is only interested in what I make not how I make it.


    Just my 2 cents

    PS I would not put a Trough any where on the bench, these are a pain as all they do is collect dust and other bits of crap and unless you have stacks of room for another table to use in assembly ( something I do not ) you will end up using the bench and the trough will be annoying, also just a point I feel a bench should not be too wide or high as it will affect the use of planes if this is what you like to use, again this is only my personel opinon.

    good luck


  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Bendigo, Vic
    Posts
    11

    Default Ideas for workbenches

    Darryl
    That's when I decided that I needed the most useful of all handtools ... the workbench ... when I started buying quality planes ... now I'd like to make my own.
    I just posted a pic of my bench on the photos board as a new thread for you to have a look at. I sussed out many before making my decision. So far I haven't been able to fault the design for the type of work that I do. I really like the dog block assembly (pic below) as I find I am usually working on (normally planing) long but narrow pieces and with this system you don't have the wide vices going lopsided. I have the square dogs along the bench and are thinking of putting some round ones accross the bench from the front vice as most of the obscure shapes that i work with are less the a couple of metric feet in size. I really like the tool tray at the back.
    Yet to put the drawers underneath but now that I have a planer/ thicknesser they are coming
    GP

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Darryl

    Only 3 years since you built your last bench? Don't you know that it takes most at least 10, perhaps 20 more years before they have sorted out their ultimate design, then about 10 more to reflect over the construction, wood choice, choice of vices - oh, the list goes on and on (and it does)!

    I built my current bench about 10 years ago and it has since undergone several modifications. It has developed as my interests and methods of woodworking have changed. There is definitely a difference in how benches are used not only between power and hand tool users, but also among woodworkers within each of these groups. This really emphasises that I consider the bench to be the ultimate handtool and, for my purposes, it is designed to be used along with my other (smaller) hand tools.

    My bench is limited by space. It has to live against a wall in a double garage, one that also houses the family (although they would argue largely my) toys. Consequently, to make it easier to hand plane long boards, I have two face vices. I also have an end vice so that I can plane/surface wide boards. The bench has a series of dog holes that work hand-in-hand with all the vices (i.e. both across and down the bench). Another major necessity for a handtoolers bench is a FLAT surface since you cannot plane accurately on anything else. For example, you may want to use it as part of a shooting board. Lastly, the bench must be rack-free, which generally means HEAVY since you are otherwise going to move it around with your handplanes, handsaws and chisels. Mine is a relatively lightweight bench made from Karri (from pre-handtool days). Bolting the bench to the wall made a huge difference and it now feels solid as a rock. Oh, one last item to consider is a tool well. I added one after a few years (one of several mods over the years) and this has been a real boon. Nothing worse than using chisels, block planes, etc and not having a safe place to put them away but still have them within arms length.

    I have not said anything about materials, construction details, "type" (traditional joiners, modern, etc). All those items are very personal and you do what ever gives you a sense of satisfaction. Look at those of Big Al and Gutta Persha in the Photo Gallery. Gee, theirs are superb. As I said earlier, mine represents a gradual progression over the years from a basic need to meeting current needs. I plan to rebuild it when we have completed the addition to our home, one that will provide me with more dedicated workshop space. Anyway, just for a giggle, below is a pic of what I use.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by derekcohen; 25th April 2004 at 03:37 PM.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Bench for sale currently on eBay. Starting price $200.

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....category=55433

    I'd say that beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    8,175

    Default

    I don't want to hijack this thread entirely, but thought I may resurrect a question I posted a few months ago, particularly as I am probably not too far from starting now...the new-fangled workbench!

    The workbench photo attached is from a FWW article and relies on a series of pipe clamps rather than vices. In operation it seems to me to be a big "workmate", and I am quite keen to give it a go....I have a stock of recycled oregon, which won't make the world's heaviest or hardest bench I know and the fact that I can't find any reference on the web makes me quite dubious of it's success....but I'd welcome comment/criticism/doubts before I start!!

    (I'll probably build it anyway, just to see if the doubters were right, and fit "proper" vices later.)

    Cheers,

    P

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Boyne Island, Queensland
    Age
    51
    Posts
    929

    Default

    Darryl,

    I was just wondering if it might be useful to incorporate a shooting board into the bench top, along the front edge. I've seen Terry Gordon using a separate assembly(shooting board) for edge jointing but I reckon it would be handy to have it there all the time, without taking up space on the bench top. It would only be a matter of making a large rebate in the front edge and making up a few clamps to hold the board down. What do you think?
    http://www.hntgordon.com.au/jointinglongboards.htm

    Dan

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    P

    I would not recommend building a bench out of oregon. It is too soft and the mortice-and-tenon joints will deteriorate, the structure will loosen, and you will have a bench that racks all the time.

    Save it for something else.


    Dan

    I think the idea of an inbuilt shooting board is a great one. Have you pics of what you describe? I have a vague memory of some somewhere on my harddrive. I'll look and post if I can find them.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Lakehaven, NSW, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    995

    Default

    Lots of good ideas guys - keep 'em coming!

    I think I'll pass on that bench Derek :eek:

    Dan: Interesting idea. Not sure I'd want it there all the time - but maybe with two face vises, a nice straight 2x3 could be held in the vices (+ maybe a couple pegs into the face board?) to do the same thing when needed. Have to think about that one.

    Midge: Given you can buy from Carbatec a decent face vise for $130 and pipe clamps are usually $60+ each, I'm not sure your're going to save any money I guess the reason it hasn't taken off is that it's just not a big leap from there to a more traditional/proven bench - even if you use a door or MDF or ply or whatever for the top.

    I guess the way I'm looking at this is the way many of you seem to as well - as the biggest handtool in the workshop. I'm not looking to load it up with a million gadgets, but I'd like it to be well set up and very usable.

    I'm tending towards the Veritas round dogs. I'll make large wooden jaws for some/all the vises with dog holes. For the second face vise I'm contemplating the Carbatec or Veritas assemblies, the Veritas patternmaker's vise, or the large Dawn pivot-jaw vise (like the idea of the whole jaw sliding up as a dog, and the covered screw).

    On the end though it's still a very open question. Veritas twin screw? Tail vise? Something else?

    Come on guys - more!!
    The Australian Woodworkers Database - over 3,500 Aussie Woods listed: http://www.aussiewoods.info/
    My Site: http://www.aussiewoods.info/darryl/

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    186

    Default

    I feel like I'm commenting upon someone's singing abilities, when mine are none-existent. You see, I'm currently in rental accomodation awaiting one house to be taken away and a new one (well, two) put in its place, so I don't actually have an in-situ bench, just making do with a knock-down one for the moment. Still, here goes...

    For vises, I think a tail vise gives great support for planing, but a twin screw vise will be more flexible, particularly as you can place dog-holes anywhere on the table to use with it. Go for the pattern-makers as well if your wallet can handle the pressure.

    April 2003 edition of FW has a good article on building a "Rock Solid Workbench" I know you say you don't want a showpiece but there are some really good joinery practices evident here which may inspire you not to cut too many corners. Incidentally, this article highlights how easy it really is to build in square dog-holes, provided you are using laminated hardwood sections for the top. Having said that, I like using round bench dogs, as you can easily make things like hold-downs to suit. If your worry is rotation just have a couple with squared-off top edges on hand.
    (though I was very impressed with Gutta's simple but effective-looking "tail vise"). Can't remember where but someone in a mag suggested using ball-catches to situate the dogs. Great idea!

    I may have to upset someone here. No matter how non-showpiece you want it, I find it hard to accept a serious workbench for a woodworker which has bolt-together joinery. I know it is probaly rock-solid and easy to construct, but isn't it a little like going to a hooker, gets the job done but are you proud of it? The equivalent we have in flyfishing terms is visiting a trout farm! Sorry!

    Cheers,
    silkwood

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    186

    Default

    I feel like I'm commenting upon someone's singing abilities, when mine are none-existent. You see, I'm currently in rental accomodation awaiting one house to be taken away and a new one (well, two) put in its place, so I don't actually have an in-situ bench, just making do with a knock-down one for the moment. Still, here goes...

    For vises, I think a tail vise gives great support for planing, but a twin screw vise will be more flexible, particularly as you can place dog-holes anywhere on the table to use with it. Go for the pattern-makers as well if your wallet can handle the pressure.

    April 2003 edition of FW has a good article on building a "Rock Solid Workbench" I know you say you don't want a showpiece but there are some really good joinery practices evident here which may inspire you not to cut too many corners. Incidentally, this article highlights how easy it really is to build in square dog-holes, provided you are using laminated hardwood sections for the top. Having said that, I like using round bench dogs, as you can easily make things like hold-downs to suit. If your worry is rotation just have a couple with squared-off top edges on hand.
    (though I was very impressed with Gutta's simple but effective-looking "tail vise"). Can't remember where but someone in a mag suggested using ball-catches to situate the dogs. Great idea!

    I may have to upset someone here. No matter how non-showpiece you want it, I find it hard to accept a serious workbench for a woodworker which has bolt-together joinery. I know it is probaly rock-solid and easy to construct, but isn't it a little like going to a hooker, gets the job done but are you proud of it? The equivalent we have in flyfishing terms is visiting a trout farm! Sorry!

    Cheers,
    silkwood

Page 1 of 6 123456 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •