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Thread: Re-surfacing Work Bench
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30th August 2005, 11:23 AM #16
Dissenting opinion
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Looks like there are a few ways of positioning the dog holes in the new veneer.
Basoon, the paper template sounds good.
Mick, my potential problem is not cutting the holes, its marking their location on the new veneer. I have around 6 'blind' dog holes due to under bench obstructions.
Bottom line is I should not have been a lazy tightarse and used existing Oregan 125x50 for the bench top. If I'd gone and bought/bludged some hardwood I'd be with all the anti-veneer pursists too.Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
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30th August 2005, 01:30 PM #17
New Member
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I use may workbench for most auto stuff. I've found corrugated cardboard a good worktop. Pick it up at the paper recycling section at the tip and it's free. Washing machine boxes are great. It makes a smooth work surface that's impact absorbing, so it doesn't damage any parts or surfaces. When it gets too messed up it going back to the recycling place.
As for dog holes: Just slap some paint on the edges of the workbench and around the dog holes. Carefully place the new top on top of the bench, press and remove. Should have the workbench, with dogholes nicely templated on the under side of the new top. Join the dots where appropriate and cut to fit.
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31st August 2005, 12:39 AM #18
Ox and Herdsman Vanished
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A 'story stick' might also be useful. Very accurate if used with a knife, and might be less cumbersome than a large sheet of paper.
Originally Posted by Bodgy
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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