Thread: Redefining the Aussie WorkBench

Gidday

Finally some supplies have just started to roll in....................I've also got my hands on some 19mm Marine grade Ply that will form the substrate of the top slab of my Bench.

Today some Epoxy finally arrived from my supplier so I was able to continue with the process of moulding my epoxy fastners.

I reckon West System is the Ducks guts of Epoxy available on the market today. I've noticed it critisised a few times for being to runny n hard to control/manage in a glueup.

Enter the use of Gap Filling Microfibres (See Pic) Worried about the white color??? Just add some fine sawdust from what ever stock your using and ....................Vwhalla instant coloring with no noticable glueline MAGIC!!!

Today I was going for nothing more than pure strength coupled with Gap filling n heres the Process.

Mix up your Batch at a ratio of 1(HArdner):5(Epoxy) I have the Pump systems that West System make as an aftermarkrt accessory. MAkes thing SSSSSSSSSsssoooooooo Easy.

G'day New Lou,

You must be the most patient bloke I've come across in the time it's taking to build that bench. Of course you want to do it right and proper, but c'mon mate e want to see it yesterday.

Hey Waldo

Yer I hear Ya. But I can't make things outta thin air I've had no stock n run out of a number of key materials n other odds n sodds vital to Bench completion.

I've also had to wait for a number of overseas shipments so I just have to be patient. Mind you I have not regretted this for one moment as I've avoided a number of big hassles dramas and problems by not rushing things.

I havent got a fully kitted up workshop so if if I wanted to I just could't knock up a Bench in a few Weekends. I've also milled all my stock through a mixture of Hand and machine milling.

I rough mill first then let my stock settle in the Shed for at least a month before I do my final milling. Yer its a drag but is so much better than creating compounding problems or having to live with compramises or say a vice face that I know isn't true.

Is it worth the wait ........................for me absolutely!!!!!

I'm developing so many skills and making so many discoveries along the way thats its been worth it ten times over.

What can I say .......................... patience is a virtue

REgards Lou

Gidday<!--[endif]-->

I gently mix in to reduce air Bubbles then add microfibres to the Mix. I keep stirring in as I go and aim for something of the consistancy of pancake batter.

Once shes mixed in and looks like mayonase i Poor the mix into the wells I have pre mixed until shes full to the brim. Once this stuff cures its like concrete n I've yet to use anything that bonds or sets as Hard.

Once cured (Full curing takes about 8 days) I clean up with a chisel then sand over the top with 80 grit Sandpaper to tidy everything up..............Very nice Very versatile and extreamly strong!!!!!

N theres Ya Apples

I must add that when I use Epoxy I always wear Hand/Eye protection and a respirator to keep the fumes outta me Lungs!!!!


REgards Lou

Originally Posted by Waldo

G'day New Lou,

You must be the most patient bloke I've come across in the time it's taking to build that bench. Of course you want to do it right and proper, but c'mon mate e want to see it yesterday.

Its already been nominated for the 9th wonder of the world and world heritage register..

Seriously though! Slightly off subject. Has anyone heard of or used an epoxy called Bote-Cote. The guy who is sanding my floor says its equivalent to West Epoxy but 50 bucks a drum cheaper. He uses it to repair damaged floorboards and he mixes in fine dust from whatever species of timber he's working on to make an almost invisible repair.....ok! just did a google in case this has been discussed already. Came up with a discussion on boat repairs. SO the question becomes, is bote cote ok to use in general woodworking applications such as Lou's never-ending-bench-story?

BTW..Good work Lou. (But I AM getting older, so hurry up mate)

Lou, Don't let these impatient people put you off. If it's well worth doing, it's worth doing well. You're an epoxy master, and I'm keen to learn.

I think you must be trying for some sort of record here...the longest thread on the longest project ever.

You say "I'm developing so many skills and making so many discoveries along the way thats its been worth it" . Don't stop ..it's been worth it for us too!

G'day New Lou,

I didn't notice in it in the shots of you pouring the epoxy, but have you thought of mixing it with saw dust of the timber being poured into, so that you get end result of epoxy matching to timber?

...what Waldo said but it has to really FINE dust not coarse dust just to colour it and very little is needed. If too coarse it becomes structural and weakens the epoxy - or so i've had explained to me.

Hi Lou, just a few comments re West System Epoxy. I've been a user for 6 years or so.

For structural joins / gap filling glue-ups / plugging holes and gum veins/ fixing cracks & splits etc, you need to add the microfibre thickener to make a paste. Then colour with fine sawdust (at least 180 grit dust). Or you can also add brickies oxide colouring agents. I like the oxides because you can get good colour match / OR / just colour BLACK, which is great if you want to make a crack or split look like a gum vein.

For gluing up panels (table tops etc), you need to cut WAY BACK on the microfibre thickener. The glue is so strong you only need a VERY thin film on the edges of the boards to be joined. For years I was adding too much thickener and getting a noticeable glue line. So I did a search of woodworking sites in the US and got some great feedback from pro's who use West System. And for panels you need very little and leave it runny. But do add some colouring (oxides add little bulk).

Just thought I'd comment as you seem like a West System convert. I've NEVER had a glue failure with West System. As opposed to PVA's and Yellow Glue.

Cheers,

Richard

Thx Richard

Well today I began joining the base to the substrate for the top slab. I've decided to use a few sachy's n some 1/2 inch carriage bolts with pilot holes that allow for woodmovement (ie: slightly bigger)

I was lucky to get a few of the extended bits Soundman was flogging off n they have been real HAndy.

I start with a hole punch then drill my largest diameter first. I'm using a sawtooth forstner here. I then go down a few pegs to accommodate the head of the carriage bolt.

I've found that pilot holes really help when doing a deep bit a drilling work like this. Is not to complicated with most concentration and energy used to keep the holes true.

Heres a few more Pics of the process

N completed substrate.....................

Why do this? Well hopefully it'll allow me to replace the top layer of ply and melamine as required so I can use and abuse the surface of the Bench without a grimace or second thought

Once I've seasoned my stock it'll be time to work on the skirts n end caps

Regards Lou

Funny thing, Lou... the bigger it gets, the smaller it looks. Probably 'cos I'm used to big'n'chunky benches, more suitable for carrier landings. In comparison, this project is dainty and sophisticated.

I gather the skirts will have some substance behind them to handle walloping?