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  1. #76
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    Oct 2005
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    Unless the base is to be a talking piece I feel a strong steel base is the way to go. Very easy to order, 4 legs @ 850, 4 rails at ### and 4 end rails at ###, even if you get the local welding shop to weld it up if you are not that way inclined would still work out good value.

    Darkside the top and darkside the shelves and cabinet but stick with strength for the base.
    Interesting thought dazzler.

    Michael Connor who is an Aussie workbench maker has taken a very similar view it would seem.
    http://www.michealconnorwoodwork.com.au/workshop.html

    Before howls of "But where are the vices" start if you look on the right hand side and the back RHS you can just see them. However it must be noted that the stuff he makes to sell is much more traditional (and beautiful). IMHO alot of this stuff about which bench is best revolves around asthetics despite, protestations to the contrary. There is nothing wrong with this, why not have something beautiful in your workshop, maybe it is just that it seems hard to admit that you prefer a tool of a certain type because it is more beautiful than a tool of similar funtionality that is ugly or plain.
    Man can wait long time with open mouth for roast duck to fly in!!

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  3. #77
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    Aug 2003
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    Pambula
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    I'm not convinced that a steel base is the way to go. What you need in a base is mass to absorb vibration and weight to stop it sliding around. I don't like the idea of bolting benches down to the floor either - you should be able to move them around to where you want them. So again it comes down to how you work. Some people get by fine with a couple of trestles and an old door.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  4. #78
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Northen Rivers NSW
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    57
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    2,837

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    Quote Originally Posted by silentC
    I'm not convinced that a steel base is the way to go. What you need in a base is mass to absorb vibration and weight to stop it sliding around. I don't like the idea of bolting benches down to the floor either - you should be able to move them around to where you want them. So again it comes down to how you work. Some people get by fine with a couple of trestles and an old door.
    Hi Silent,

    When shedhand was over I was showing mine off and said

    "shes pretty heavy" and went to lift one end. Couldnt even get it to move at all. Its out of 3mm steel for the legs so if its steel its gotta be nice and thick.

    cheers

    dazzler


  5. #79
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    Fair enough. If you used 3mm and largish sections, you'd probably get enough weight in it. OK, I retract my objection. If I've got any steel left over from building the house, I'll make a bench out of it
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  6. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Gippsland, Vic
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    72
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    4,608

    Talking She ain't heavy..

    Quote Originally Posted by dazzler
    Hi Silent,

    When shedhand was over I was showing mine off and said

    "shes pretty heavy" and went to lift one end. Couldnt even get it to move at all. Its out of 3mm steel for the legs so if its steel its gotta be nice and thick.

    cheers

    dazzler
    I organised the remedial massage...
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  7. #81
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Albury NSW
    Age
    80
    Posts
    104

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    This is a fascinating thread. I really made a mistake when I built my benches as I used 50mm angle iron as the frames and bolted on recycled Vic Ash floor joists with a sacrificial plywood sheet as tops. I built them to fit into a corner of the garage and they are extremely strong and never move. BUT! how can I fit a vice to them as the steel frame prevents the vice from being bolted to the underside? Do I need to start again?
    Jim Grant

  8. #82
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney,Australia
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    3,157

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    Most vises can be fitted a fair bit below the table top Jim. Just measure up the total thickness of the table top including the angle iron & look for a good big vise like a Dawn that comes as close as possible to the thickness.

    Just glue/screw a block of wood inside & fitted to the angle iron to give you something to screw the coach screws into to hold the vise to the bench. If the fixed top jaw of the vise doesn't come up to the table top, just make a false bench front with the fixed jaw let into it & fit an extended wood jaw liner to the moving jaw.

    That is a good bit easier than hacksawing a notch in the angle iron, & there is a good chance that the vice will be within an inch(25mmm) of the top level when you bolt it in place.

  9. #83
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    Aug 2004
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    Gidday

    For me using steel in the design is not something I'm into but as always is just my personal preference. I'm sure appropriate use of steel could be utilised effectively into a Bench design...................just not my cuppa tea!

    Thought I'd post the latest developments in my design and start doing some rough dimensioning. Before someone starts on the hight of my Bench (Which would be considered out of the powerzone for handtools) the hight is designed to be level with my present work Bench which is fixed into one of the corners of my Workshop.

    If I need to I'll simply make some kind of step I can use to stand on if needing more grunt behind a Handplane. I,ll conceed the design is unusual but offers a great deal of versatility and really suits my work Habits.

    I've also done a quick color version in Cherry but I'll try and do one as close to real world as I can in the Final draft.

    All comments suggestions new Ideas really appreciated.

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  10. #84
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    G'day NewLou,

    Strueth mate! You must've done a Cad Drawing 101 class, those pics look great.

    I know everyone has been adding their input, but a question. Will 1800 be enough length in your bench and 600 deep? You can never have too much room, for me that'd be on the tiny side.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  11. #85
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    Thx Waldo

    any suggestions ..................... what would be an ideal length? I'll go and take a pic of my fixed bench and measure some dimensions. I'd be keen to hear what members think?

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  12. #86
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    Mar 2005
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    G'day NewLou,

    My bench for you may be too long at just over 3m, but I think a bench would need to be 800mm deep (which mine is), any less and I'd think you'd soon find you'd be fighting for room to work on with all the rest of the clobber i.e. tools and that - even though you have a tool shelf below.

    Maybe look at 2400 being the length of your bench - standard size of the timber you'd be buying to make it.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  13. #87
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    I prefer a smaller bench so that I can get at whatever it is that I'm working on from all sides. Are you ever likely to make anything taller or wider than 1800? Shaker benches are huge by comparison but that's because of the way they worked and they often had more than one person working on the bench at a time.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  14. #88
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    Hey

    Heres a PIC of my workarea and Poorman Bench.................Believe it or not I have been doing a lot of planning researching reading asking about building my Bench..........& in particular taking note of a lot of my workhabits.

    Most contemporary Benches appear to be around the 27 1/4 inch or 70-80 cm mark in width. I've been using a pencil each time I work on the poorman to mark out the space I use & believe it or not over the last 6 months its been landing in the 40-50cm range..................

    So I reckon about 60cm in width is about spot on for me & will help discourage me to leave tools all over the top. My bench area measures a tad over 3meters. I want to have my workbench in an island configeration parallel to my fixed bench which will help with all manner of large stock & sheet sizes.

    My compound mitre saw is also set up at around about the same height so I'll design my workstations within the Shop around this. Not sure if I need any more length cause of the real estate I already have with my fixed bench??

    REgards Lou
    Last edited by NewLou; 9th February 2006 at 11:21 AM. Reason: crap spelling
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  15. #89
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    Mar 2005
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    G'day NewLou,

    I'd forgoten your earlier topics of your shed and now remember you've got tonnes of bench space along the walls. I reckon you'll be spot on with your bench design mate.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  16. #90
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    Waldo, I am the opposite. I think a bigger bench is a magnet for crap.

    Mine at 1800 x 900 is just big enough to get work done, and big enough to attract way too much clutter and junk.

    I have part solved that bad habit with a tool trolley. Just a thing with casters that I put tools in/on. Seems to keep my bench much clearer.

    Next bench (as this one is not that great) will be slightly longer, not much wider but a sight heavier than it already is. I have moved it around the floor with vigorous planing, but that's prolly more the floor than the bench weight.

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