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  1. #121
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    Hi New Lou,
    Any more progress on the bench? You say ash, I take that's mountain ash?
    I was thinking of something I've been experimenting with, as I looked at your progress shots. With a built-up or laminated leg as you're doing, could you have incorporated a large mortice AND tenon at the bottom? What I mean is, in a 3 layer lamination (for want of another word) the middle one could protrude to become a tenon and align the 2 shorter ones as shoulders; and the opposite for the mortice in your base piece, glue it up with the middle one in 2 pieces and a measured gap between them. Too late now by the looks, but just a thought!

    Cheers,
    Andy Mac
    Change is inevitable, growth is optional.

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  3. #122
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    May 2005
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    Turramurra, NSW
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    Knurl

    You are correct. The dowels are simply there to support the end of a long piece of work whilst you fix it in the vise, and thereafter to support when working on the piece. I found that if your work extended any distance past the jaws of the vise the un-clamped end would droop when you appplied downward pressure, as when planeing. The dowels stop this.

    I just drilled four holes in to the face of the bench, ie the same surface that forms one of the vise jaws. I drilled the holes in a vertical progression, but now realise that the line of holes should have been at 45 degs as the increments would have been smaller allowing for more supported 'heights'.

    I just have a bit of dowel, around 12mm, which I stick in the appropriate hole. I doesn't provide sideways support, but I find it doesn't matter. The work remains stable when you plane it.

    Hope this makes sense.
    Bodgy
    "Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams

  4. #123
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by NewLou
    Probably the hardest cut will be the angle of the top Bevel of the Foot of the Bench. The Angle as you can see in the Drawing is 12 degrees.

    My question is what you guys think is the Best way of cutting the 12 Degree Bevel into the top of the foot of my Bench?

    I've got a few ideas of my own but would really like to hear what others think on this one???

    REgards Lou

    Bandsaw and a handplane ?? I believe Lou doesn’t have a bandsaw. Do you Lou? And not having a bench to secure the work piece, it is too difficult to plane it anyway.

    Lou, what about rough cut by a handsaw then use a simple jig and a router to flatten the surface?
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  5. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Mac
    Hi New Lou,
    What I mean is, in a 3 layer lamination (for want of another word) the middle one could protrude to become a tenon and align the 2 shorter ones as shoulders; and the opposite for the mortice in your base piece, glue it up with the middle one in 2 pieces and a measured gap between them.
    Cheers,
    Gidday Andy

    Yeah I think thats a great idea. I really think thats a technique worth considering however seeing my stock was 50mm thick by 200mm wide I didn't think I'd need a third lamination. I've definately got your idea firmly slotted away for future reference.

    I'm holding back a bit on my Bench at the moment to let my stock adjust to my shop environment. I'm planning on attempting some fancey joinery and believe it or not am mad enough to consider using quad tenons for the joinery to the leg and foot of the Bench.

    This will increase the surface area for the glueup!! Of course I'm not going to stop there I'll also add Pocket holes and mabe even some dowells to act as Pins. Should be super tough joinery n just what the businees end of the BEnch design might need!!!

    Theres certainly some interesting suggestions on how to cut the bevel on the foot of my Bench..................Espically seeing I don't own ANY heavy machinery:eek::eek::eek: Rest assured I'll post on how I went about it once I come up with my final solution.

    I'll keep you all posted as I progress!!!!

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  6. #125
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    Mar 2005
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    Camden, NSW
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    Hi Knurl, BobL has answered your question with one solution. Both my end and face vices have the inner face proud of the bench. As Bob said, one advantage of being flush is that the bench face supports a lateral load on the workpiece but I made mine proud because I use a 'hook' that hangs over the edge of the bench and I locate dowells in the face of the 'hook' to support an oversized workpiece which is partially held by the vice. I'm not near the shed at the moment but I can send a photo of the hook when I get back. Fletty

  7. #126
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Melbourne, South East Subs.
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    G'day, Lou;

    You're a maniac, dude. Keep it up! I was inspired by this thread to start building a bench but I had to keep pinching bits of stock I'd dressed for it so I could complete other jobs. When I finally had all the frame stock organised I cut the bevels on the feet...and then changed my mind and screwed my solid-core door to the melamine topped steel bench that I mentioned waaay back. (For those with long memories or who care to check, the full length fluro light assembly has been ripped out and is now hanging from the pozi-struts above the bench)...

    Anyway, I checked in my 9" record clone that's been gathering sawdust since the '04 wood show and Bob's yer uncle. Just need to add an apron and jaw liner and maybe a sacrificial top; just undecided about what to top it with.

    Doesn't help you much, Lou, but for the record I cut the bevels for my bench feet as near as I could on the table saw with a taper jig, then handplaned to my line. Buggered if I know what to do with 'em now, trestle table or something..:confused:

    Regards,
    Rusty.
    The perfect is the enemy of the good.

  8. #127
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    Jan 2006
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    Having spent a couple of days reading about the perfect Aussie workbench and Dereks' suggestions in Best of the Best, I'm still unsure of whether to go with dog holes or tracks on my new bench.

    The bench sits under a window and is about 2.5m by 700mm. It has only one working edge with (soon) my new Irwin vice in the centre (on advice from this forum). The vice has that metal dog in the front jaw. The bench is my first one and only 2cm thick compressed particle board or something like that! a) Does that thickness preclude using tracks?

    I like the idea of tracks for a novice like me because of the flexibility it affords. b) Do I mount the tracks parallel to or vertical to the primary edge of the bench? I'm guessing/preferring vertical. How far apart should I put the tracks - is there an ideal spacing? c) If you recommend dog holes (at 88 degrees as discussed) do I sprinkle them (evenly) all over the surface of the bench so that it looks like Swiss Cheese or is there a preferred pattern in a limited area like my bench?

    p.s. Fabulous forums - I'm a forum addict and need my daily fix.
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  9. #128
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    Gidday Knurl,

    Just set up sliding dogs as per normal Bench DOgs no hard n fast rule on positioning/setup other than trying to match your 'kit' to your workhabits!

    Heres a solution to setting up SLiding Dogs in thin man made boards:

    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=24060

    HAve Fun!

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  10. #129
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    Hi Knurl, re placing and spacing of bench dogs, they are normally aligned either side of the centre line of the dog on the end vice and spaced a little less than the opening of the vice. On a 'laminated' top the dog holes would not be aligned with the dog on the front vice because because clamping could force the laminations apart. However, with your bench top being a continuous piece, you could drill the dog holes in line with the front vice dog. I would still drill 1 row either side of the centre line of the front vice as that would give you 3 contact points for a regular shaped workpiece. I hope this explains, Fletty

  11. #130
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    After reading NewLou's article I'm concerned at tracks pulling out, if I don't use your epoxy fixing solution. Lou, I didn't quite understand what you do but fugure that you "pour" epoxy into the large underside holes in the bench and that provides a large plug that's "integral" with the bench. Given that I have a thin bench, why couldn't I just affix a wide board under the bench in line with the track and bolt/screw it on?

    Fletty, thanks. I'm interested that I can get away with two lines of holes either side of centreline of the jaws. I'm considering separating these lines about 30cm apart given the jaws are 17cm.

    BUT, I'm still not convinced either way is better for a newbie like me. I just can't bring myself to start cutting holes or tracks in the surface, especially as I'm a messy bugger and all those bits and screws etc will fall into them. And with holes that's includes all that sawdust now under the bench as well.
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  12. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knurl

    The bench is my first one and only 2cm thick compressed particle board or something like that! a) Does that thickness preclude using tracks?

    Given that I have a thin bench, why couldn't I just affix a wide board under the bench in line with the track and bolt/screw it on?
    Knurl I just answered your question:confused:The method of choice if you want to use particle board for a workbench would be to have a number of layers of particleboard to add weight n strength

    This lamination would be perfect to inlay sliding dogs into.

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  13. #132
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knurl
    SNIP......

    Given that I have a thin bench, why couldn't I just affix a wide board under the bench in line with the track and bolt/screw it on?

    ...........
    That's exactly what I have done on my new bench. I have a thin (19mm) construction ply top supported by a network of 100 x 50 x ~900 mm long Jarrah aligned along the dog hole runs.

    see http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=28519

    So far it works good.

  14. #133
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    What a beauty Bob. I have already admired your bench and had another look and I wish....

    A closer look at your vice jaws gives me another exact solution to one of my problems; how to get 6cm deep outer jaw liners at bench top - by a laminate solution bolted together. I could only find 35x140 Blackbutt in my local yard. You'll probably think me dumb, but the idea just didn't occur to me. How did you put the rails and screw through the inner jaw? By dissassembling the vice, I suppose.

    I appreciate all the help I've got and certainly read it all very carefully....

    Next I've got to start making some sawdust and see how it all comes together....

    I'll show you my results.. Ta.
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  15. #134
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  16. #135
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    Gidday

    Well my stock seems to be nicely getting used to my Shed so I thought I'd start on my Bench again

    I started cutting the bevel on the foot of my Bench. I set up my WoodRat which makes this kind a thing a piece a cake and off I went.

    I simply set up my stock in the WoodRats Mitre Box and shaved away with a spiral upcut bit till I was Close to my Markout lines.

    This made the job really easy but I'd still like to thank all the previous suggests about how to go about this...............Just goes to show how versatile my Woodrat is!

    .............................................
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

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