dare I say -- one big dovetail with a bit of decoration ?
as you said at the beginning, OTT, but it still looks very very noice
Printable View
now about those bolt holes
you need some of these
http://www.leevalley.com/US/images/i.../50k5903s6.jpg
or in your case to cover the bolt heads
:D
Looking good! Why is the end cap a different thickness to the top? Won't that get in the way or get caught and splinter?
Hi Greg
The Benchcrafted tail vise is designed for a bench with a 4" thickness (or greater). A 4" thick end cap is needed so that the handle/wheel can be attached below the bench top.
Of course not all benches are 4" thick. The Benchcrafted tail vise is still capable of being used on benches with a thickness of even 2". This would require a spacer under the rails of the vise to create sufficient depth, and then a 4" deep end cap for the wheel.
My bench top is 3 1/2" thick, which is why the end cap is a little deeper. I do not imagine that this will create a problem.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi IanQuote:
now about those bolt holes
I am in two minds about the bolt holes. One side says the bench is a tool and the bolts are where one adjusts the end cap (which is necessary in this design). The other side wants to build furniture and hide the bolts. I like your idea. I think, however, should I go down this path, I would fit matching plugs and make the bolts completely disappear.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi Andrew
I am hopeless in judging time for tasks. My wife says I must double or treble anything I imagine! :U
I have the base parts all cut, so that is the next to do.
Then the leg vise, and the sliding jack.
Finally, all the dogs (without them the tail vise does not exist).
All then (who said "finally"? :;) there are a few other bits and pieces before I am ready to quit.
Three weeks into the build. I'd like it done in three more.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I replaced the coach bolts. I was not happy with the idea of relying on end grain to support the threads.
I really do know know why - call it a senior moment - but I drilled out the first underbench bolt hole with a router. Noisy, the smell of wood burning, and s-l-o-w! Ugh!
The light came on, and I switched to a 12" brace with 3/4" bit.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...uild/Bolt1.jpg
It was amazing how much faster - and effortless - this was. The European Oak is so much softer than Jarrah. Once the hole is to depth, chisel a flat side for the nut.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...uild/Bolt2.jpg
The bolt hole is slightly oversized (for expansion) and is slightly deeper than the underbench hole for ease of tightening.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...uild/bolt3.jpg
Here are the first two holes ...
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...uild/bolt4.jpg
Handpower rules!
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...uild/bolt5.jpg
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek - I heartily agree - I would certainly not expect end grain to cop the sort of forces you could potentially apply with that set-up. I assumed you had inserted a cross-grain plug when I read your first post. You could also have drilled a 3/4" or 1" hole in the right spot and inserted an appropriately-sized piece of dowel, which then serves as a cross-grain 'nut' for the coach bolt. I've used this method in similar situations, when it would have been too much hassle to use bolts. That would probably have given you more than adequate holding power, but since it's still easy to do, the bolts will give you peace of mind.
The coach screw & dowel 'nut' method has the advantage in being very easy to make, and it should also remain easy to undo way in the future, when bolts & nuts may have rusted up. Your nut slots don't look big enough to get a spanner on the nut - I presume you are relying on the nice fit to stop them spinning during tightening or loosening? I am probably fussing about nothing, but when I recently unbolted the end cap on my bench I had a bit of bother with one nut that didn't want to move easily, & had to jam it with a screwdriver to prevent it from spinning. They have had 25 years, in a damper climate than yours, though I did oil the threads generously during original assembly, which might be a good idea in your case, too, given the high tannin (acid!) content of Oak.
It's coming along nicely......
:U
Hi IanQuote:
Your nut slots don't look big enough to get a spanner on the nut - I presume you are relying on the nice fit to stop them spinning during tightening or loosening? I am probably fussing about nothing, but when I recently unbolted the end cap on my bench I had a bit of bother with one nut that didn't want to move easily, & had to jam it with a screwdriver to prevent it from spinning.
No, I cannot get a spanner on the (internal) nut. I used a screwdriver to wedge it while I tightened the bolt.
You make a good point about being able to undo the nut (to re-tighten) if it rusts and cannot turn. I had simply planned on lubricating this area with silicon grease (SuperLube). It might be a good idea to widen the area alongside the nut to fit a spanner. I doubt that I will go to the trouble of doing so at this stage. It can be completed if needed at a later time.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi Ian
If the bolt/nut rust and weld to each other, bits of wood will not aid in undoing their union. If - and only if - it becomes necessary to re-tighten bolts, getting a spanner in would be the only working solution. Hopefully silicon will deter rust.
I have not read anything along the lines of these posts on forums anywhere else.
Regards from Perth
Derek