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Thread: Roubo Bench Issues and Questions
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27th March 2012, 03:33 PM #226zelk
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I have use this type of perforated rubber mat placing it under my ductile iron planes. After several months of contact, I have noted rust in the pattern of the perforation. Not sure whether the rust was the result of direct contact with the mat or whether it coincided with the gaps in the mat.
Zelk
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27th March 2012, 03:58 PM #227
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27th March 2012, 04:08 PM #228
Any material that does not breath, such as rubber, steel and plastic, runs the risk of creating condensation. This leads to rust on steel surfaces.
Do not keep tools in steel cabinets. Do not line drawers with rubber matting.
Years ago, when I was involved with a car restoration, I would read about the cars whose owners filled every gap, pipe, tube, etc with foam to keep out moisture. However, these simply caused moisture to become trapped against the steel. The result was that these cars rusted faster than others.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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27th March 2012, 04:36 PM #229
Just as well my rasps are Sapphire coated then! Thanks for the tip-off, because I was going to do the same with my files (when I get them), and they probably won't be coated.
So, aside from a block or whatever to prevent movement, what's a suitable material to prevent tools moving when the drawers are opened and closed? Leather would be far too expensive (lots of drawers).
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27th March 2012, 04:41 PM #230
Wood!
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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27th March 2012, 09:11 PM #231
Yes indeed - isn't that what we are all about here!?
But be careful which woods you choose. Woods high in tannins can cause serious rusting. I used some scraps of Silky Oak, once, and everywhere it contacted steel it caused a nasty rash. I'd also recommend avoiding Eucalypts. I've had no trouble with camphor laurel, pine, or Qld Maple, and there would be lots of others, I'm sure.
It's fun figuring out various combinations & permutations to maximise use of the available space. I use a combination of spacers and solid blocks to hold things snugly & prevent unwanted contact or rolling about.
A few examples from my toolbox:
Cheers,IW
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28th March 2012, 09:38 AM #232zelk
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30th March 2012, 03:33 PM #233.
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Rubber matting is fine for plate tools like nickel or chromium plated stuff but I agree it can make a mess of exposed iron.
It does not hold as well as rubber matting but I'm finding some thin felt like matting (SWMBO got it from spotlight) that I spray camellia oil onto and then scrunch it up so the oil spreads evenly throughout the felt works well.
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30th March 2012, 09:27 PM #234
Hi Derek
I'm curious as to why you decided on a glued up panel for the shelf as an alternative to tongue and groved boards slotted into each other
How much gap did you leave for expansion?
or is Perth so dry, moisture change won't be a problem?
do you prefer it over a BU?
or are you still making up your mind on teh new bench?regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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30th March 2012, 11:14 PM #235
I used quite dry T&G boards for the shelf in mine and did not glue them so I could remove them if needed; there was a 5mm gap left for expansion so it would not press against the legs. In addition, one of the boards had the bottom of the groove removed to act as a failure point if the expansion ever got to that point. I did not expect to ever see it, but it took only 2-3 months before I came in the shed to find the shelf had 'popped'. I now have 1cm play available.
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30th March 2012, 11:31 PM #236Hi Derek
I'm curious as to why you decided on a glued up panel for the shelf as an alternative to tongue and groved boards slotted into each other
How much gap did you leave for expansion?
or is Perth so dry, moisture change won't be a problem?
My original plan was to tongue-and-groove the boards. I was looking forward to another outing with my LN #49. Part of the reason I did not do so was that I ran out of boards - there was not enough to include the T&G. In a way I was relieved as I was also concerned about dust collecting in the grooves, not to mention the extra work - I was getting tired of the build. So I justified a flat panel as the easiest to keep clean, and the quickest to build.
There is an expansion gap at the rear, about 3mm, and the panel is loose. Keep in mind that Perth weather is generally dry anyway.
so how is the Bronze #3 performing?
do you prefer it over a BU?
or are you still making up your mind on teh new bench?
I must point out (again) that for me it is not (and never has been) a fight between BU and BD. My issue has been common angle versus half pitch in interlocked timber, which is so common in Oz, especially WA. It is easier to create a half pitch in a BU plane. It is also easier to attain a low cutting angle for end grain (e.g. shooting boards). I prefer BD planes over BU for their ease in sharpening - I freehand on a hollow grind as I am too lazy to use a honing guide, which I only do because the performance of BU planes is so good. BU planes with high cutting angles are still easier to push at high angles.
The new bench is amazing. How can it not be after my old bench!
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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30th March 2012, 11:41 PM #237
Derek,
yes I know that.
A significant life event is maybe not that far away and celebrating with a new plane might be the way to go.
If you're guessing I'm tossing up between a #3 with HAF and a SBUS, you'd be right
As the only person I know who has a #3 with HAF and having reread your SBUS review tonight, seeing the #3 on the bench got me interested in your opinion.
a review, perhaps? bofore or after you finish with block planes?regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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31st March 2012, 12:50 AM #238
Hi Ian
My life is filled with changes of direction! I have been planning a comparison of small versus large smoothers, with the SBUS and #3 on one side and the BUS/#4 1/2 on the other. Then I got caught up in the bench. This weekend I must complete a bedside table for my son, which I will combine with a review of the Glen-Drake dovetail saw and kerf starter, which was sent to me for this purpose. But I have also started building a bridle plough plane. So I have put aside the plane review until I get these done.
In brief ...
The LV SBUS is a really delightful, light and throw-about small smoother. It feels like an extension of one's hand. It should be a serious contender if you are comfortable using a honing guide to sharpen.
The LN bronze #3 with 55 frog feels like a precision instrument. It feels heavier, less throw-about and more purposeful, is less an all-rounder and ultimately less capable than the SBUS (unless you add a backbevel), but makes up for this with a terrific performance nevertheless in bling garb. This is a plane preferred if you are not working the extremes of interlocked woods and/or prefer to freehand sharpen blades.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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31st March 2012, 09:15 AM #239Junior Senior Member
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31st March 2012, 09:52 AM #240
G'day Derek
When you say " It is easier to create a half pitch in a BU plane " why do you think is the case ? I have one plane dedicated to difficult grain which is BD and I have a back bevel on the blade to create Middle Pitch (55 degrees), which works fine for most woods. It is a very simple process to add the back bevel, and takes very little time to do so.
" BU planes with high cutting angles are still easier to push at high angles "
If you have two planes with the same pitch one bevel up and one bevel down, why is one easier to push that the other ? I would have thought it requires the same amount of force.
Regards
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