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Thread: Roubo Bench Issues and Questions
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8th February 2012, 07:44 PM #91
Derek - it's not a huge issue, but I have had to assemble & dis-assemble benches more times than I thought I would ever need to. Occasionally, I've struck trouble. Some have yielded to a screwdriver jammed in very hard, but for a couple I had to dig out the slot enough to bring a spanner bear. I can assure Sydney Ian that it takes more than wooden spanners to hold a determined nut! So now I either make the slots spanner-sized to begin with, or make barrel nuts, which are far and away the best solution, as long as your drilling is spot-on!
I usually need to tighten the bolts after a few moisture cycles, but they seem to settle down after one or two tightens and don't loosen any more after that. You don't experience the RH extremes we cop in Brisbane, and may well find they stay tight, & it's a total non-issue......
Cheers,IW
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8th February 2012, 09:07 PM #92
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8th February 2012, 09:19 PM #93
Actually Ian, the "wodden" clothes peg might just do the trick.
... where does one acquire woddens?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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8th February 2012, 10:17 PM #94
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8th February 2012, 11:18 PM #95
if my spelling was only a little better you could follow these directions:
1. Travel EAST along the Great Eastern Hwy to Southern Cross
2. Turn right onto the Coolgardie-Esperance Hwy, Coolgardie 164.4km
3. Turn left onto Eyre Hwy, Norseman 1197.7km
4. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Eyre Hwy, Ceduna 0.2km
5. At the roundabout take the 1st exit onto Eyre Hwy, Ceduna 0.3km
6. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Eyre Hwy, Ceduna 223.1km
7. Turn left onto Eyre Hwy, Kyancutta 88.4km
8. Turn right onto Eyre Hwy, Kimba 0.1km
9. Turn left onto Eyre Hwy, Kimba 129.2km
10. Continue along the RAMP ramp, Port Augusta West 0.2km
11. Veer left onto Eyre Hwy, Port Augusta West after ramp 24.9km
12. Continue along Victoria Pde, Port Augusta West 3.1km
13. Veer left onto Port Wakefield Rd, Port Augusta 205.1km
14. Continue along Port Augusta-Port Wakefield Rd, Port Wakefield 71.4km
15. Veer left onto the Northern Exp ramp, Waterloo Corner 0.8km
16. Continue along Northern Exp, Virginia after ramp 20.6km
17. Continue along Sturt Hwy, Gawler Belt 179km
18. Veer left onto the RAMP ramp, Barmera 0.4km
19. Continue along Sturt Hwy, Barmera after ramp 14.4km
20. Veer left onto the RAMP ramp, Monash 0.2km
21. Continue along Sturt Hwy, Monash after ramp 13.6km
22. Turn right onto Sturt Hwy, Renmark 137.8km
23. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, Mildura 3.6km
24. Turn right onto Sturt Hwy, Mildura 0.7km
25. At the roundabout take the 1st exit onto Sturt Hwy, Mildura 2.2km
26. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, Buronga 75.9km
27. At the roundabout take the 1st exit onto Sturt Hwy, Euston 78.1km
28. Continue along Market St, Balranald 2km
29. Turn right onto Sturt Hwy, Balranald 129.8km
30. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, Hay South 170.1km
31. Turn right onto Sturt Hwy, Gillenbah 93km
32. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, Wagga Wagga 3.3km
33. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, East Wagga Wagga 1km
34. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, East Wagga Wagga 2.7km
35. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, East Wagga Wagga 39.2km
36. Continue along the Hume Hwy entrance ramp, Tarcutta 139km
37. Take the LEFT FORK onto Barton Hwy Exit, Yass 2.2km
38. Continue along Barton Hwy, Yass after ramp 45.5km
39. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Barton Hwy, Crace 3.7km
40. Turn right onto the Gungahlin Dr ramp, Mitchell 0.5km
41. Veer left onto Gungahlin Dr, Kaleen after ramp 5.4km
42. Continue along Caswell Dr, Aranda 2.8km
43. Continue along Parkes Wy, North West Rural Canberra 0.2km
44. Continue along Tuggeranong Pky, Weston Creek 6.9km
45. Take the ramp to Hindmarsh Dr Exit, Lyons 0.4km
46. Turn left onto Hindmarsh Dr, Lyons after ramp 0.7km
47. Turn right onto Eggleston Cr, Lyons 0.9km
48. Turn right onto Macfarland Cr, Chifley at Melrose Primary 0.6km
49. Turn right onto Wilsmore Cr, Chifley 0.2km
50. Arrive at Wilsmore Cr, Chifley
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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9th February 2012, 10:43 AM #96
Oh Derek... you and your wheel reinventing!
Rather than create potential problems in the future, why not go the traditional/obvious route and use square nuts fitted into appropriately-sized slots beneath the bench top?
Most decent fastener suppliers carry square nuts. Antique beds were all held together at the corners with 3/8" or 1/2" bolts through the legs and square nuts in slots cut into the rails. I've had occasion to use a rattle gun to undo stuck bed bolts and the square nuts always stayed put in their slots.
If you can't find square nuts locally, they're easily made from a length of 1" x 3/8" (25 x 10) flat bar....
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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9th February 2012, 11:48 AM #97
Hmmm, it hadn't even occurred to me to make something like that, WW. A simple solution & much easier to make than barrel nuts, and while barrel nuts require a single hole, you do need the accuracy of an SAS sniper to line up the bolt hole & nut hole exactly. Those large square nuts would be a little more forgiving, but do the job excellently well. That's what I'll use next time I build a bench (which may be never, but I can't promise that. ).
Thanks for bringing that to my attention!
Cheers,IW
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9th February 2012, 11:56 AM #98
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9th February 2012, 12:29 PM #99
Hi WW
A square nut is a great idea. Thanks. Now why did that not occur to me ...?
I am going to reinvent the wheel here a touch, however. Better still would be a strip of steel (say 2" long x 3/4" wide) with the hole tapped at the one end. The strip will extend down into the hole. The "top" will be flush with the under surface of the bench. This way it is easy to hold the nut (no spanner required) both to fit it and to re-tighten it.
Thanks for inspiring the idea.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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9th February 2012, 12:42 PM #100
Just watch out for the steel if you ever have cause to flatten the under side of the bench again!
If you tapered the ends of the bolts (à la old bed bolts), then you wouldn't experience any problems aligning the nuts as long as they're within 1/8" of where they should be..
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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9th February 2012, 12:47 PM #101
Found a bed bolt...
.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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9th February 2012, 02:15 PM #102
WW - I was talking about drilling the holes, & getting the axes of the barrel nut hole & the bolt hole to intersect perfectly. I can't see how a magnet & piece of dowel is going to help that procedure, can you enlighten?
I can see how the pointed end of the bolt would help quite a bit when assembling - another good idea. That makes two good ideas I've picked up today. Stop now, that's enough, or my head will start to hurt!
Cheers,IW
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9th February 2012, 02:19 PM #103
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9th February 2012, 05:56 PM #104Junior Senior Member
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9th February 2012, 06:14 PM #105
End Cap Bolts - Another Alternative
Hi Derek,Yep, good idea that, some great minds about. In the dim recesses of my mind I now recall I had decided on a similar idea for my bench, some 5 or so years ago now, (and still no bench I might add). My thought was a bit 'quick and dirty', I intended to have the strip of bar iron maybe 1 inch wide and the full depth from under surface to just beyond centre, drill a hole in it adn weld a nut to the strip. The bar iron would be both the spanner and a washer for the nut. The slot was going to be a little larger than the iron so that it easily slipped in, and if ever needed, easily removed. No tapping holes, just a couple of welds on the nut flats. See, I told you it was quick and dirty, but hey that is just me. Cheers Pops
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