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Thread: Roubo workbench in pine
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18th June 2014, 01:54 AM #16Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 16
The top is all glued up minus the two pieces that will make the tail vise and the piece that goes outside of that. I used plenty of glue and made sure there was no dry spots before clamping. I also tried to make sure that the ends are fairly even. I need some longer clamps before the final glue up of the top.
Tools Used:
1. Titebond II Glue
2. Glue applicator bottle with roller
3. Clamps
4. Deadblow mallet
5. Bucket of water
6. Chux to wipe up excess glue
Lessons Learnt:
1. Glue applicator bottles are hopeless at dispensing glue, it is easier pouring the glue and then using the applicator roller to spread it around
2. The guy who said you can never have too many clamps knew what he was talking about
Next Time:
1. Flattening the underside of the top
2. Flattening the upperside of the top
3. Cutting the tenon on the end for the end cap
Photos:
Shows the glue up done in 4 stages to make it easier
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18th June 2014 01:54 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th June 2014, 09:32 AM #17
I will be watching this one as well.
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18th June 2014, 01:11 PM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
- Location
- Brisbane - Southside
- Posts
- 273
Good to see some progress. Have fun flattening the top !
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22nd June 2014, 03:29 PM #19Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 16
It may have taken a couple of days to flatten the top and bottom to a standard where they are flat and free of any wind. I started on the bottom side by going diagonally with the jack plane to knock down any high spots and get it fairly level and then along the grain with the fore plane to clean it up. After checking for wind and correcting as necessary it was a case of flip the top and repeat. I also squared the sides to the top. After chasing the top around the garage a few times, I have come to realise that cheap saw horses are not quite up to the job. I will leave the final planning of the top until the bench has its legs, this is why it may appear a little rough in the pictures. I also cut one end square and also cut the tennon for the end cap using my sliding fillister and rabbet planes. When I cut the mortise in the end cap if I feel the tennon is too wide or not deep enough I will cut it with chisels as at the moment it is at the extreme of the fillister width and depth stop.
Tools Used:
1. single blade jack plane
2. double blade fore plane
3. sliding fillister plane
4. rabbet plane
5. rule
6. pencil
7. marking gauge
8. screw driver
9. 8 TPI cross cut saw
Lessons Learnt:
1. Need better saw horses (have plans to make soon)
2. More care in glue ups will make jobs easier latter
3. Planning is still hard work but getting faster
Next Time:
1. Mortise for end cap
2. Fitting of tail vice
3. Compete glue up of the top
Photos:
1. Start of flattening process
2. Completed top
3. Tennon cut in the end of the top
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22nd June 2014, 04:13 PM #20
looking pretty good so far
those woodies of yours look pretty OK too.
where / how did you learn to tune them?regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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24th June 2014, 12:07 AM #21Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 16
Ian, thank for the reply, I have no training or experience at all, I only learnt to use the woodies by watching a few videos on Utube. But most of the experience in setting them up is by trial and error, hitting the front or back of the plane to change the blade cutting depth etc. As I am new to woodworking from scratch it takes me 5 + minutes to get the blade set for what I want to do. Hopefully this time will decrease with more experience. Some times it is a little frustrating but still nice to listen to the radio and hear the blade make that swish noise at it cuts off a shaving.
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27th June 2014, 12:47 PM #22Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 16
A small milestone has finally been reached. Except for the final flattening of the upper side of the top it is now complete. The only other thing is the cutting of the joinery but I do not consider that part of the top building process. Firstly I complete the tennon by cutting the ends to look like a normal tennon. I made an end cap out of a stick that was no good for any other purpose as it had checks down the edges. So I planed off the milling marks and ripped it to width. Then the mortise was marked and then chiselled out. Once a good fit was achieved it was cut to length and then with the outside piece of the top marked for a dovetail and cut out. This was not as successful as I may have hoped but it went together however there are a few gaps around the dovetail. oh well it was my first ever attempt at one and it is only in a bench that will cop heaps of abuse so I am not too worried but I did learn a lot about cutting this joint. Once satisfied everything was fitting well the second strip was marked and had 100 mm cut off to form the tail vise stock. Then the top was glued up, 2 lag bolts were installed into the end cap and the top was left overnight to cure. The next step was to finish flattening the underside. Once completed work commenced on the tail vise. Firstly I marked out the location of the hole in the centre of the end cap and used a 3/4" auger bit and a brace to drill the hole. Then screwed in the hardware to hold the screw on by marking and using the appropriate twist drill and a hand drill. A notch was cut in the vise block to hide the tail vise end and the end was drilled to take 4 screws and then attached to the tail vise. This completed the vise. To stop any play in the vise a plate of steel was cut to width with a hack saw, filed to remove any burrs and then drilled and screwed to the block. Then with careful measuring and chiselling a 4mm trench was cut out for the plate to ride in. Once completed the two outer plates were then screwed into place utilising the existing screw holes. The vise works well and at the moment is a little tight with no play but will loosen a little after continuous use. Whilst this bench is being made entirely using hand tools the electric drill was used to drill a total of 7 holes in to the metal and has now been returned to its owner.
Tools Used:
1. Hand saws
2. Chisels
3. Mallet
4. Marking Guage
5. Marking Knife
6. Combination Square
7. Pencil
8. Rule
9. Screwdivers
10. Handplanes
11. Brace and bits
12. Centre Punch
13. Large Framing Square
14. Hammer
15. Electric Drill
16. Files
17. Glue and clamps
18. Wrench
Lessons Learnt:
1. Dovetails are not easy
2. Ripping timber by hand is hard work
3. I completely understand why people use thicknessers and jointers, it is hard work by hand
Next Time:
1. Glue up the legs
2. Leg Joinery
Photos:
1. Completed tennon
2. End cap blank
3. Ripping the end cap to width
4. End cap fitted
5. Top final glue up
6. Tail vise installed
7. Close up of tail vise
8. Completed top
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8th July 2014, 09:57 AM #23
Hi Jason,
looking good. How are things progressing? I do like your home made tail vise!
Greg
ps. do you ever get called "leftie"? I went to school with a Jason Wright, his older brother was called writie, and he was called leftie...
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12th July 2014, 06:19 PM #24Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 16
Stewie thanks for the encouragement, the tail vise idea comes from Jordswoodshop. I have never been called leftie but when I was in the Navy my nickname was Shinner as every one with surname Wright is called. Just a Navy thing I guess.
It has been a while since I have posted due to a few reasons, mainly that necessary evil in life called work, but also the handle on my plane broke off and my hand slipped and got banged up a little so I was not allowed into the shop for a few days. During that time I decided to buy some metal planes so I can finish the build, but I want to build a Seaton style chest and fit it out so the woodies are going to make a return one day.
The legs are finally complete except for the mortises for the stretchers which will be cut after the top is cut to receive the legs and I can measure everything up. I started out by gluing up the leg blanks extra long and then planning square and to size, starting with the scrub plane and finishing with the smoothing plane. The new planes work a treat and the planning went much faster than with the woodies and are easier to set too. Once all the legs were done I marked out for the joinery, a dovetail and a through tennon on each leg left a little long to plane level with the top later I then cut them out by firstly using the tennon saw to make sure I was on my marks and then using the hand saws for a faster cut. The waste between the tennon and dovetail was first sawn down and then drilled out by bit and brace finally cleaned up by chisel, route plane and block plane. Once all legs had been done they were cut to length.
Tools Used:
1. Measuring tools: pencil, tape measure, marking gauge, rule, combination square
2. Saws: cross cut tennon saw, cross cut hand saw, rip tennon saw, rip hand saw
3. Planes: scrub plane, jack plane, smoothing plane, block plane, router plane
4. Drill: 1" auger bit, brace
5. Chisel: 1" chisel and mallet
6. Misc: hold fast and mallet
Lessons Learnt:
1. Metal planes are nice to use
2. Take my time it is not a race
Next Time:
1. Joinery in the top to receive the legs
Photos:
1. Leg glue up
2. Oversized blanks
3. Starting to plane to size
4. Joinery layout
5. Cutting the joinery
6. Completed legs and tools used
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14th August 2014, 08:30 PM #25
Hi Jason,
how are you progressing?
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