Solid-Core Door Workbench - WIP

**Hermit** · 2nd June 2012, 08:01 PM

I've been using an old desk for a workbench for ages, but ran out of room. I figured if I'm going to make a bench, it better be worth the effort, so I looked around at plans, then came across this: - Attachment 210713
A pic: -
Attachment 210717

The top is simply made from a solid-core door. The frame is 4 x 4s, made by laminating pairs of 4 x 2s. This makes the joints much easier. And, of course, makes for a solid base.

I bought a solid-core door yesterday - was lucky and got one that was slightly damaged on one side for $50. The damaged piece was still hanging off, so I glued and clamped it. I just need another can of grey undercoat and good as new. The little black mark in the thumbnail is an arrow showing where it was repaired.: -
Attachment 210715

The door in the plans is 1 3/4" x 30" x 80", (44.5mm x 762mm x 2032mm).
Mine is 1 1/4" x 36" x 80", (32mm x 920mm x 2040mm), thinner but 6" wider, so I'll adapt the plans slightly to suit. They have 3.5" top overhang front and back, I'll make it 100mm front and back, so the frame will be 720mm deep.

I won't add drawers - I have 8 already in the other bench and would rather leave room for bench dogs etc. Definitely a shelf like in the plans, though.

When I bought the door, I also bought half of the 4 x 2s - 11m. I still need another 11m. 4 x 3.6m should cover it. Gotta wait until next payday for that. The door cost $50, the first 11m of 4 x 2s cost $146, delivery was $15. That's my budget for this fortnight.

This will be one expensive bench, but should be strong and last forever, I hope. I already have a large, (old, rusty), woodworking vice sitting here. I just need to clean it up, maybe a coat of paint and make new lining pieces for the jaws. I've got a heap of Blackbutt here, that'll do the jaws nicely. When built, I'll finish the top in poly, as in the plans.

I haven't even thought about bench dogs etc yet. I guess I should soon.

I wasn't too sure how high to set the bench top at first, but a bit of reading told me that the best way to determine the height is to stand upright and measure the distance form your wrist crease to the ground. That should be about right, they say. I'm doing that.
I'm a short-ass, 5'4", so my benchtop will be 845mm, (33 1/4").
Toward the end of the thread, I'll report back on whether it is the right height.

Having determined the height, I cut the main leg pieces tonight.
If you think the old bench looks crowded in the pic, it's usually worse. I moved the compound mitre saw and drill press onto the floor out of the way: -
Attachment 210716

This is the first thing I've made since high school apart from a few shaped boxes and the beginnings of a scale A Model Roadster, so anything could happen.

Any comments or suggestions are very welcome. (Even the silly ones - I'll just ignore them.)

**WandrinAndy** · 2nd June 2012, 09:58 PM

It looks solid Steve!

I would align the front of the worktop with the front of the legs, to form a single vertical plane, which would allow for extra clamping options.

Like the jointing technique described in the plans as "undercutting".

Cheers,
Andy

**Hermit** · 2nd June 2012, 10:05 PM

Originally Posted by WandrinAndy

It looks solid Steve!

I would align the front of the worktop with the front of the legs, to form a single vertical plane, which would allow for extra clamping options.

Like the jointing technique described in the plans as "undercutting".

Cheers,
Andy

Actually, I purposely enlarged the overhang, from 3 1/2" to 100mm. The problem with having none is it gets in the way of edge-clamping to the bench with 'F' clamps and 'G' clamps. I have that problem all the time with my current (desk) bench. I can only clamp to the edge in the middle, away from the drawer sections.

In the photo above, there's a small clamp on the edge of the (desk) bench that shows what I mean.

And yes, it does look solid.

**_fly_** · 2nd June 2012, 11:53 PM

For obvious reasons the solid doors are used as fire doors in office buildings. And they need to be replaced regularly. I was lucky enough to get 2 from my building when they were replaced and thrown into a skip, Yep they throw them away. The contractors were happy for me to take them as if saved them skip space. Was only annoyed that I had to take on roof of car and it could only handle 2 of them. I currently use them as shelves but a workbench when I move would be good.

**Hermit** · 3rd June 2012, 12:02 AM

Originally Posted by _fly_

For obvious reasons the solid doors are used as fire doors in office buildings. And they need to be replaced regularly. I was lucky enough to get 2 from my building when they were replaced and thrown into a skip, Yep they throw them away. The contractors were happy for me to take them as if saved them skip space. Was only annoyed that I had to take on roof of car and it could only handle 2 of them. I currently use them as shelves but a workbench when I move would be good.

Evening Peter.
I didn't even consider used doors. I should have. Still, for $50 I did OK.
The real cost is in the 4 x 2s.

(I'm busy working on that spoke gluing jig tonight. It's coming along well. (Touch wood))

**WandrinAndy** · 3rd June 2012, 08:59 PM

Originally Posted by Hermit

Actually, I purposely enlarged the overhang, from 3 1/2" to 100mm. The problem with having none is it gets in the way of edge-clamping to the bench with 'F' clamps and 'G' clamps. I have that problem all the time with my current (desk) bench. I can only clamp to the edge in the middle, away from the drawer sections.

In the photo above, there's a small clamp on the edge of the (desk) bench that shows what I mean.

Yep, I see what you mean with the lack of clamping spots on the (desk) bench... it must be the proverbial pain in the butt.

However your new bench will not have drawers so you should still be able to easily clamp over the benchtop or benchtop+top-rail with slightly bigger F-clamps or quick-clamps... Being a skinflint, I use the cheap ones from Big B.

I cannot recall any fancy workbench WIP on the forum having a front overhang and think this is because the overhang design negates the idea of easily using the front legs and face as solid vertical clamping/supporting points.

Look forward to following your WIP as I always learn something from the WIPs.

Andy

**Zedicus** · 3rd June 2012, 09:31 PM

My current bench is a solid core door like yours with 4x4 legs. When I was making it I came across a sheet of laminated particle board which i have screwed down onto the door. Figured this could be a sacrificial piece to protect the door and to add a bit more thickness and weight to the bench.
I have had it for a few years now and it has held up well. My door was a secondhand one but at least yours doesn't have the hole for the door knob. I agree, for $50 you did well. You should get many years use for what is a cheap bench top.

**Hermit** · 3rd June 2012, 10:16 PM

Originally Posted by WandrinAndy

Yep, I see what you mean with the lack of clamping spots on the (desk) bench... it must be the proverbial pain in the butt.

However your new bench will not have drawers so you should still be able to easily clamp over the benchtop or benchtop+top-rail with slightly bigger F-clamps or quick-clamps... Being a skinflint, I use the cheap ones from Big B.

I cannot recall any fancy workbench WIP on the forum having a front overhang and think this is because the overhang design negates the idea of easily using the front legs and face as solid vertical clamping/supporting points.

Look forward to following your WIP as I always learn something from the WIPs.

Andy

I don't do any clamping big enough to need to do that. I only make boxes and scale models.

I clamp a small vice and my Dremel workbench and a sheet of perspex covered in W&D and also do most of my small lamination and inlay clamping on the edge of the bench. All sorts of weird stuff.

**Hermit** · 3rd June 2012, 10:21 PM

Originally Posted by Zedicus

When I was making it I came across a sheet of laminated particle board which i have screwed down onto the door. Figured this could be a sacrificial piece to protect the door and to add a bit more thickness and weight to the bench.
I have had it for a few years now and it has held up well.

Good thinking 99.

I felt that my door was a touch too thin, but didn't consider adding a layer. I might use plywood. It's more forgiving with temporary screw holes for screwing things down than laminated particle board. (I think.)

**bj383ss** · 8th June 2012, 12:33 PM

Hello Steve,

I wish I knew you were building a workbench. I could have given you the plans to the workbench I made a couple of years ago using only 3/4" plywood. Its laminated 4 layers for the legs with a space at the top and bottom for a tenon made on the rails.
Here are a couple of pics.

Attachment 211485 Attachment 211486

If you want to add weight to the bench consider adding a bottom to the bottom shelf and add sand before you put the top of the shelf on.

I also built some cabinets with drawers to go under my bench. There is still room abover them for storage and bench dogs.
Attachment 211487

I used the same height rule. My bench is 36" from the floor I am 6'2"

**Old farmer** · 8th June 2012, 03:28 PM

Many thanks to all you coves for this great thread and pics.

**Hermit** · 8th June 2012, 06:59 PM

Originally Posted by bj383ss

Hello Steve,

I wish I knew you were building a workbench. I could have given you the plans to the workbench I made a couple of years ago using only 3/4" plywood. Its laminated 4 layers for the legs with a space at the top and bottom for a tenon made on the rails.
Here are a couple of pics.

Attachment 211485 Attachment 211486

If you want to add weight to the bench consider adding a bottom to the bottom shelf and add sand before you put the top of the shelf on.

I also built some cabinets with drawers to go under my bench. There is still room abover them for storage and bench dogs.
Attachment 211487

I used the same height rule. My bench is 36" from the floor I am 6'2"

Not bad looking, Bret. Pretty solid and definitely better looking than mine will turn out, but mine will be equally solid, I hope, with 3 1/2" square legs and frame.
I won't need to add weight, either - moving it will be the problem: - the base is about 22 metres of hardwood 4 x 2's, and when that's added to the weight of an 80" x 36" x 1 1/4" solid-core door, along with a top protective sheet of plywood and my large vise, it won't be going anywhere as I work.

I've got to wait until payday now to get the rest of the timber, so no real progress yet, but I did cut the main pieces for the end frames. As soon as I get the rest, I'll fly in and it'll happen more quickly. I've got the screws for laminating the 4 x 2's, and glue of course, (I'll use good ol' PVA), but still need to get the rest of the hardware, too.: -

**Hermit** · 8th June 2012, 07:02 PM

Originally Posted by Old farmer

Many thanks to all you coves for this great thread and pics.

No worries, Old farmer. I like my pics too, so I'll keep 'em coming.

**crowie** · 8th June 2012, 09:27 PM

G'Day Steve,
You're surely putting a lot of good work into your bench.
I made a bench from a couple of old solid core doors a few years back but no-where as fancy as yours.
Well done.
Cheers, crowie

**Christos** · 8th June 2012, 09:41 PM

Both work benches look similar. I will be following this WIP.

Thread: Solid-Core Door Workbench - WIP

Thread Tools

Search Thread

Solid-Core Door Workbench - WIP

Similar Threads

Best way to flatten solid core door workbench?

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions