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  1. #46
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    Oct 2008
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    A bit of progress, more pics not many words...

    A finished wheel set ready for fitting.

    Attachment 116502

    A stuffed up wheel set ready for re-doing. See how I managed to get all three hinges on the same side. Don't think that'll work...

    Attachment 116503

    Wheel sets fitted and wheels lowered for some rolling around.

    Attachment 116504

    Wheels up and parked. I rounded over the levers to make them a little more friendly on the hands.

    Attachment 116505

    Final one today, for some reason one of the locking blocks was a bit slippery and didn't want to stay in position so I've just glued a bit of sandpaper to the side rail to keep it in place. I might replace this with a small strip of rubber at some stage as I think it will probably work better.

    Attachment 116506

    I've been informed that after a very extended wait my router lift mechanism is finally on it's way to me and should be here within the next couple of days. That means it's time to get to work on the top.

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Williamstown, Melbourne
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    486

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    Looks pretty cool. Took the pictures for me to understand what you were planning.

    So is the lowering/raising technique a 2 handed operation?
    One hand to push the lever and the other to fit/remove the block?

    I reckon there would be a hell of a lot of pressure on the locking block hinge. The hinge and screws look brass so I wonder how long they will hold for.

    Alternatively, when the lever is fully depressed (flat), how much pressure is there on it? Rather than the locking block, what if you had a pin (or some sort of catch) to hold the lever down? Then it could almost be a one handed operation.

    I really need to post the photos of my retractable mechanism. It's used for the cabinet that sits under the triton and lifts both it and the triton up. Works ok, but am looking to improve for the router table (hence my other thread). Unfortunately, it's all still in storage (only recently moved out of the rental into the new house).

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    G'day John,

    It is definitely a one handed operation to lower the wheels as they are a little offset and when fully down the lever goes just a touch over centre and will stay there without any effort provided the wheels remain in that position. Raising the wheels is a little different and depends on where they have ended up after the move so may or may not involve two hands to get them back up.

    I had originally intended to use a catch on the lever to hold the wheels in position but I wasn't too convinced of the lever's ability to take the strain so went with a different solution. Another problem presented itself with that idea also as I had planned to have two small dowels in the front rail that the lever had to bend a little to get past which would hold it down. Unfortunately I couldn't really get any bend in the lever so didn't think I'd be able to get them back up past the dowel.

    If the brass hinges give out then I guess I can replace them with some stainless ones or if the whole system turns out to be a useless mess than it'll be back to the drawing board on the wheel sets and I'll probably revert to the lever catches.

    I'd like to see a photo of your mechanism once it's all out of storage.

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,271

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    Well done!

    I thought of your springy-lever-locating-between-two-dowels too - well I envisaged a lever attached by a knuckle (thereby obviating the need to be springy) and which would be captivated by a ratchet-type notch-shaped block.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

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    You have put a lot of time and effort on this one and I guess only time will tell.

    I have the time and you can do the telling.



    I know not a good joke but you should have seen what else I typed.

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    Thanks guys. The knuckled lever has given me a few more ideas so if it falls apart I think I could get another system in place without too much difficulty.

    My router lift has finally shown up and I've just ordered a sheet of the phenolic covered form ply to start work on the top. I'm planning on doubling up the ply to make 34mm worth of top depth and edging it with some more of the hardwood that I'll machine up today.

    Attachment 116681

    I'm worried about being able to keep the top surface flat given that there will be three separate parts. I think the best way to go about it would be to fit and secure the top as one piece and then cut the centre section out, hopefully leaving the two remaining ends level with each other.

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Melbourne
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    How much is a sheet of phenolic covered form ply? I'm after a half sheet for a little job, but the thought of having to buy a full sheet is weighing heavily on me.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  9. #53
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    Oct 2008
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    Sydney
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    The full sheet of 2400 x 1200 was just over $90 from Mister Ply&Wood but I believe they also stock a smaller sheet at 1800 x 1200 which might be more suitable.

    Not sure you'll find them in Melbourne though, I think it's just NSW and QLD for these guys.

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Thanks, I did look into it some time ago and the suggested price caused weakness before I could even locate a supplier. I will investigate further.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  11. #55
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    Oct 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    Spent the day machining up the edging for the top. Took a bit longer than I had planned since I still haven't solved the wandering fence problem on the tablesaw and ended up thicknessing all of the pieces again, after ripping on the saw, to get them nice and uniform.

    Attachment 116730

    They are all 40mm x 19mm and I'm hoping I've cut enough to do the job as I abandoned half a stick of the recycled hardwood after thicknessing the wrong side and turning a freshly jointed face all nice and curvy again. I made them 40mm deep to keep them looking similar to the rest of the frame. This means that they will hang below the 34mm of plywood top so I'm planning on filling in the small gap with a strip to ensure there's no problems with clamping to the top.

    Pretty pleased with the Mister Ply&Wood guys, they dropped off a sheet of the formply this arvo after ordering it this morning. Even offered to help carry it out the back, which I soon realised I'd have been wise to accept, given the struggle that ensued once they'd left. It's pretty heavy stuff.

    Attachment 116729

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Dundowran Beach
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    Thumbs up

    Steve that is coming along very well. lots of time, thought and effort on your par is paying dividends.

    How do you like the Formply?

  13. #57
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    Oct 2008
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    Sydney
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    Thanks artme.

    The formply looks pretty good and should make a nice top, great suggestion! The yellow stuff just scrapes off the phenolic coating without any effort so won't be a problem on the top surface. I did manage to wreck the lower edge having to slide it into the shed but I'll be able to hide that once the edge strips are installed.

    It's not perfectly flat like a piece of MDF so I'm not sure how I'll go gluing it up into a double thickness and flattening it out. Actually, not sure if the glue will even hold on the coating anyway so I guess I'll have to screw it together. Maybe roughing it up with some 40 grit before glue is the way to go.

    Things to be considered over the next few days while I get back to work...

  14. #58
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    Exclamation

    Roughing up, even stripping right back is the go because glue will be useless straight onto the phenolic surface. Glue and screw after stripping, or roughing. It will be a bugger of a job --and wear a dust mask.

  15. #59
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by artme View Post
    It will be a bugger of a job --and wear a dust mask.

    Sounds like that you have done this before.

  16. #60
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    Sounds like that you have done this before.
    Yep.

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