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28th June 2019, 03:39 PM #16Novice
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- Jul 2012
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- perth
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- 23
Thnaks!....I managed to borrow those clamps from the fab shop at work. I used original titebond glue for this Karri top and it ended up like this.
IMG_0041[1].jpg
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28th June 2019 03:39 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th June 2019, 03:42 PM #17Member
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- Aug 2017
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- Woodend (VIC)
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- 60
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- 95
Check the Moravian Workbench. Built two, one in the US out of oak (as a complete beginner), and the second when I got home, out of recycled blackbutt, turpentine and some cheaper stuff. I would built a Moravian again if I had to build a workbench.
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29th June 2019, 04:36 PM #18
Pretty but a lot of work, requires precision to look pretty and those vices aren't cheap. I do like the knockdown option though...
Leg vices are all the rage atm but how useful it is depends on what you are making. Probably useful for furniture. Useless for boats and probably not very for musical instruments and small boxes.I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?
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30th June 2019, 11:54 AM #19
Pine or Hardwood and Your in Melbourne.
Go to The Tile Importers for a good range and the best price .
https://www.tileimporter.com.au/
Ive got nothing to do with them , I used to buy from them a lot but have moved from Melbourne . The saving will be good and the best you can have compared to everybody else.
The thing is you got to know how to deal with them . It helps anyway . Basically walk around like the place is yours. They don't want to know you . You will not get any smiles or friendly help at this place, EVER. Its non existent except for the one or two guys who work there that may get to know you if you buy there enough .
When you shop there you'll be in among every other bottom feeding price hunter or tradie , specially if you go there at peak hour which is early morning . It gets very hectic at that time . For one reason . The price.
Just pick your stuff . Load your car or trailer . And then look for a guy with a pad to write it up and follow him back to the desk to pay. That's when they want to know you .
Don't judge the range of wood by their website . There is more to see in the More section under DAR (Dressed all Round ) .
To me, who shopped there for my non cabinet timbers and manufactured board the view of timber being there is better than what the website shows.
Rob
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30th June 2019, 02:50 PM #20
This page shows how to build up mortice and tenons by gluing sheet goods together
https://www.paoson.com/en/blog/cutti...workbench-n118
Don't waster your money buying their plans just see how easy it is to build a base laminating mdf or whatever together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlElSbqD3jc
The woodsmith video runs through some workbench considerations. A bench is basically a work surface and clamping base. Different types of job require different types of clamps and of course everyone has their own preference for clamps. Maybe consider doing a combo bench like their bolted design. Looks pretty fairly easy to make. MDF as I said cheap as chips bought as cover sheets form kitchen manufacturers....I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?
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1st July 2019, 09:22 AM #21Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2019
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 21
So, thanks to everyone for their advice. I'm sure to take it on and I'll reconsider how far I go with this table (might see if I can build it in stages). Anyway I was able to pick up some reclaimed Oregon @ 100x38ish which I'm going to use for the top. I figured once I have a slab made for the top I can do a simple base for now and then as I need more and more features I can integrate them into the bench. This way I get a solid top which will grow with my needs.
I think the Oregon is a good compromise between hardness/softness and weight. I'll hopefully end up with a solid top that doesn't weigh an absolute tonne.
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1st July 2019, 12:11 PM #22
An Oregon top at almost 100mm thick will still be too heavy for a one person lift. If you do it as a split top then it is manageable and the 2 halves can also fit through a thicknesser.
Regards
John
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1st July 2019, 10:39 PM #23
https://www.paoson.com/en/blog/cutti...workbench-n118
I think this guy is from Europe somewhere, they are an ingenious lot with their home made jigs etc. That is a nice looking work bench, as in the planning stages Ive NOW added a few more ideas..I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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2nd July 2019, 02:04 PM #24
That's the one I linked to above. Personally I wouldn't build that, but it does illustrate how to make a bench out of mdf ply or other sheets goods that you can source cheaply.
If I had your reclaimed studs, depending on their condition, I'd be more inclined to use them for your base and make an MDF top. If you make your base with a possible future leg vice in mind, maybe others I've not considered, it will always be the base you need. The thing you are more likely to change is the top as you decide what vices you prefer, dogs, and add under bench storage. Unless you take a fancy to some specific style of legs then any well engineered legs will be good.
Solid tops look secksy but mdf is at least as functional. You should frame it in solid timber though and if done nicely that can look pretty spesh...
2c.
I just stumbled across this on youtube. I don't agree with every detail but it's possibly the best first instruction on worhbenches I've found. Well worth 10 minutes..
YouTubeI'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?
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12th July 2019, 01:56 PM #25SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 935
I'm a bit late to this thread but pine is perfectly fine for a workbench - or I hope it is because it's what mine is made out of. Bunnings 90x45 MGP10. About $90 total for all the wood for the workbench. I followed Paul Seller's old workbench build videos (where he built the bench in his garden) with 2 second hand planes, 2 Trojan chisels, hammer, combo square, knife, stanley fatmax saw, sand paper and a glass plate for sharpening with a fairly rubbish stanley guide, and I think that was it. If it sounds like everything came from Bunnings, it's because almost everything did. The vice was a second hand Dawn quick release from Gumtree. It's been just over 5 years and the bench has fared quite well. Pine is 'soft' but it's not butter. I'd hardly call myself an experienced woodworker but even in 5 years of hobby work, I know now that I'd like the tool well to be at the back of the workbench and that I don't need so much depth but I'd prefer a bit more length. Height of the bench is important too and I would make mine a few cm's taller next time.
So one day I'll make a new bench but till then the pine is fine and the price is right
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20th July 2019, 05:22 PM #26Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2019
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 21
Sourcing timber for my first project - workbench
Jointing my first board.
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15th December 2019, 08:58 AM #27Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2019
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 21
So I finally went out and bought me a thicknesser and instead of another 20 hours of work hand planning all my boards I was able to knock it put in less than an hour and today I was able to glue the first half.
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15th December 2019, 08:34 PM #28
That looks like a great start. I can’t imagine that you’ll have any issues with your bench top not being solid enough!
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17th December 2019, 10:32 PM #29GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- melb
- Posts
- 1,125
Tile importer (oakleigh) has pine for 35x90 pine for $2 /m
Westall Timber (westall) has F17 hardwood for very good price too. Tile importer has F17 too, but from memory not as good quality.
Britton Timber (dandenong) also has F17 for a good price, Im not sure if they have structural pine but couldnt hurt to ask
Something to keep in mind if using structural pine, I find that a lot of them arent that dry so might be best to buy them and let them air dry for 6 months before proceeding?
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18th December 2019, 07:58 AM #30
Oh, something I forgot to mention in my last reply Dino. When clamping, put on half your clamps, then stand it up, and add the second half on the other side. This way you're applying pressure from both sides. Like this:
20190802_134646.jpg
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