Thread: Square vs Round Dog Holes

¿Porque no los dos? (Why not both?)

I like square dogs. They work great. I can also see your point about the versatility of round dogs.

There is no rule that says you can't have both.

I have never liked round dogs. Particularly when working soft timber. The round surface presents a very narrow face, which is inclined to dent the work piece.
On the other hand however, I love round dog holes. They are quick and easy to create as and when needed and dogs can be rotated in them to any aspect required. So, to get the best of both worlds I make my dogs from square stock and turn a cylindrical end to fit the round dog holes. The shoulde that is formed between the two shapes of the dog allows the dog to be a slip fit in the round hole so that the square end can rotate to align and engage evenly against the workpiece.

I put in a double row of round holes so 2 dogs hold the work the few times I hold stuff flat with the tail vice. Gets around the small face on the dog. Works well and easy to do but if I were doing another bench now I would go square dog holes for the tail vice. While the double row of round holes works fine I have found that sharing holes with holdfasts tends to enlarge the holes a smidgen over the years and the dogs can become loose. I tweek the wire springs to compensate but its something to be aware of.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by rustynail

I make my dogs from square stock and turn a cylindrical end to fit the round dog holes

Thanks so much for your post Rusty. I have just made an MFT top from 30mm thick ply (2 x 15 laminated) which I have so far drilled the grid pattern out with 1/4" holes. I was initially thinking of fitting insert nuts but have gone away from that idea other than I will fit some for screw in hold down clamps. For the dogs I was thinking of using 1/2" bolts, cut the head off and get the thread turned down to a 1/4" pin for inserting in the hole. I would have to pay for this as I don't have a metal lathe. Now, thanks to your input, I will get some square bare, drill and tap it and then insert a 1/4" bolt with the head cut off. The table will mainly be used for welding or at least my version of it!

Gone for round myself, way easier. Then just cut a flat on the top of the dog.

Lazy mans way

This sounds like a great idea. Round is easier to do and you still get the large face of a square. I like it.

Originally Posted by rustynail

I have never liked round dogs. Particularly when working soft timber. The round surface presents a very narrow face, which is inclined to dent the work piece.
On the other hand however, I love round dog holes. They are quick and easy to create as and when needed and dogs can be rotated in them to any aspect required. So, to get the best of both worlds I make my dogs from square stock and turn a cylindrical end to fit the round dog holes. The shoulde that is formed between the two shapes of the dog allows the dog to be a slip fit in the round hole so that the square end can rotate to align and engage evenly against the workpiece.

I started with a row of square down the length of my work bench but ha since added a row of round running parallel to the square. Best of both worlds of me.

Cheers, Peter

There is a reason why the traditional dog hole is square. Firstly, the dog hole is not vertical but angled at about 3 degrees. What this does is wedge the workpiece (when you tap the dog down). Secondly, the square dog (in the square hole) will not twist. It prevents a square face for maximum reference and clamping pressure.

I use both square dog holes along the edge of the bench, since this is where one will hold an edge for planing.

I use round holes inside the bench for hold downs and other stops ... all of which are drilled vertically.






Using both types ...




Square dogs allow you to add a saw-toothed stop ...








Regards from Perth

Derek