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24th April 2008, 02:28 PM #91
Master of the obvious
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I wasn't all that concerned about the angle actually, my main concern was keeping the alignment of the parallel dog holes as accurate as I can. Of course, the best way I could think of to acheive this was building a jig, and using the same jig for both sets of holes makes perfect sense. The two long rows of dog holes need to be as close to perfect as possible, the less error there is, the easier it will be to correct. The one parallel dog hole in the tail vice I can tune individually, no real issue there, but I'll build another jig for the main tail vice dog holes anyway.
Originally Posted by IanW
BTW Ian, was this what you were thinking for the end cap dovetails? I decided on a blind dovetail for the front left to help me keep a consistent clamping face for the front vice."Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
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24th April 2008, 04:27 PM #92
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Hi kman - yes, that is the orientation I meant. Being a traditional type, I'm not into exposed joinery as much as you young fellas (
) so I always do a half-blind d'tail for that joint.
And I wasn't saying you don't need to be precise (i.e. consistent) with the dog holes - just nothing magical about the angle. I couldn't tell you what mine are - just a bit off vertical. But they are precise from one to the other, otherwise the doogs would be loose in one, tight in another, etc. You'll curse it forever, in that case! I made router jigs to cut them accurately, but you do need a mirror image - it doesn't have to be the exact mirror in terms of the angle (you can't see it ever again, once it's closed up!), but the slots need to be consistent, again (of course) so it's easy to switch dogs from anywhere to anywhere.
Ok - start making sawdust......
Avagoodweekend,IW
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