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  1. #31
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    Oct 2019
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    Default

    Hi Chris

    Not sure I follow this. If the drawers are kept closed where would debris really accumulate from?

    Even assuming the more-than-usual dust would work into drawers, an occasion visit with a vacuum (easy to temporarily remove stuff with the bench on top) would be no problem?

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  3. #32
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    Oct 2019
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Default

    Thanks again for another great build, Derek

    I used my Veritas side rebate plane for a while recently. I think it is an amazing bit of kit and worth the money. I did find though that in trying to make very fine adjustments to a wide board, even though I can't imagine a better facility for switching sides (for coming in from the ends), it was still a bit of a pain. If I come across either a second rebate plane on a discount table I would get it for a left+right pair. They're so small they won't consume appreciable space.

    A valuable lesson I learnt is that a fairly flat panel from Bunnings is flat enough for most purposes but not quite flat enough for fine joinery. I was gently shaving the rebate and test fitting a shelf. It was frustrating because a corner would fit in nicely, but not the whole shelf. When I did shave enough to get it in with a little persuasion, I was hoping there would be a super crisp line. There wasn't - fairly hideous gaps on sections and it didn't have that nice, crisp fit you hope for.

    The diagnosis was that the shelf had minor undulations, imperceptible to naked eye but perceptible with a ruler and light. The minutely "fat" undulations were what was sticking in the dado and preventing it from going in. Unfortunately when the dado was widened enough to get the "fat" sections in, the "skinny" sections left gaps.

    A few swipes with a jack plane just on the section going in the dado would have resolved readily - oh well we learn!

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,810

    Default Adding colour

    We left off with the dados for the drawer blades made and the case glued up ...





    The plan was to make the drawer blades, partially fit them, add the drawer dividers, and complete the fitting. Then Christmas came along ...


    Measuring the drawer blades had been done. First, a pinch stick obtains the width from inside the dado, and then a template is made with scrap ...





    Set the template on the slider ...





    ... and cut to size the front- and rear rails ...





    That was just before Christmas ...





    Returning today, I thought that it wouldn't hurt to stain the Merbau case to match the Jarrah rails and drawer fronts. By the way, Merbau is also known as Kwila.


    As mentioned at the start, the reason for choosing Merbau for this cabinet was simply that it was cheap and already available as a panel. This came with a cost, in that it is not the nicest wood to work with - interlocked and coarse grained. Plus, of course, it is light in colour. The result needs to blend with the Jarrah bench.





    The first step was to use a grain filler on the outside and inside of the case. The surfaces had already been sanded to 240 grit.





    The first two coats of the stain were initially mixed with a little methylated spirit, and the concentration increased for two further coats ...





    With a few loose rails ...








    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #34
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Default

    We left off with the case complete, dados ready for the drawer blades, and the parts semi-prepared ...





    With 10 drawers in 4 rows, there are a goodly number of joints to make for the drawer blades. Typically, these are made with mortice-and-tenon joinery, which has been my method to date. Today I decided to do something different .. use a Festool Domino. I purchased this four years ago to aid in building a multitude of frame-and-panel doors for our kitchen. It did a great job, and then it was retired to a shelf.


    The rails for the drawer blades are all 45mm wide x 12mm thick. I used a 6mm x 40mm domino for each join. This is not the dimensions I would have used with M&T, where one tends to follow the 1/3 Rule. A centred 6mm domino leaves 3mm on each side ....





    I was concerned whether this would create a stiff and rigid join, and made a couple of test pieces. No problem at all.


    Not having any dedicated Domino hold downs, my bench did a sterling job ...








    Flush the joins (not that there was much to flush) ...





    Done x 3 ...





    Time to fit these. Sliding them in to the ends of the dados ...





    These is a large gap to the front of the case ...





    My design calls for a 6mm set back for the drawer fronts. To ensure that this is even around the circumference, this is marked off with the help of blue tape (I really need to take out shares in this product) ...













    The last step is to rebate the drawer fronts to move them forward in the dados.


    The base is scored with a knife (note that the frames are a tight fit in the dados) ...





    A cutting gauge is set to the line ...





    Blue tape helps outline the rebate for old eyes. Note that the short side is sawn first. This is to prevent the long sawcut slitting off as the offcut is end grain and weak.





    The cautious will sawn away from the line, and finish by paring with a chisel. I really do not fancy much paring in this really hard Jarrah, and decided to just saw to the line. The saw gods were smiling on me today ...


    [url=https://postimages.org/]


    Now the drawer blades can be moved forward into their final position ..








    The next step - for next time - is to begin the sliding dovetail drawer dividers.


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #35
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Default Preparing for the drawer dividers

    After making dados, and drawer blades, and then fitting them, comes the vertical drawer dividers. I consider that these are the make-and-break of a chest of drawers. It is tough to get a case square. It is tough to get the the dados positioned correctly. The drawer blades are simple. But then comes the dividers ...


    Drawer dividers are needed when there are more than a single drawer in each row. In this cabinet, there are two rows of three drawers and two rows of two drawers. Care in aligning the dividers at the front and rear is necessary to ensure the drawer case is parallel and square if the drawers are to run smoothly.


    It is easy enough to attach the dividers with dados. However, this is a less-strong design than attaching them with sliding dovetails. Building sliding dovetails is more complex, but the advantage here is that they tie the drawer blades to the case, making the case more rigid. That is a good thing, especially for a tool cabinet.


    This article is about the preparations for the dividers, and the next article will be making them - there are too many photos for a single article.


    Issue: drawer blades flex and bow. Accurate marking out needs a stable foundation.


    The first step is to make spacers to keep the height even. Start with the ends ...





    .. and then move them into the centre ...





    The second task is to make templates for spacing out the drawer dividers, similar to the heights for the dados ...





    Later, I made these thicker so that they could also aid in ensuring that the dividers were plumb when marking out.





    Lastly, for now, the drawer dividers were cut ...





    The dovetails will be 3mm deep at each end ...








    Onward to the dovetailing ....


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #36
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Default Part 2

    This is the front elevation of the cabinet ...





    I decided to work on the rear of the chest first .. so I could get in some practice and make my mistakes where they will not be seen!


    Much preparation has gone into accurately positioning and marking the sliding dovetail parts for each divider. This was described in the previous post ...







    Sliding Dovetail Tails


    It is a good place to start. All the dividers are cut to size. These are each 12mm wide x 45mm deep. The heights vary per row, but there are essentially two drawer heights.


    The tails will be 3mm deep as the drawer blades are 12mm thick, and two sockets take up 6mm of this.





    This is the work area and tools ...





    There is a bench hook for a dozuki, a Stanley #79 side rebate plane converted into a plane for dovetailing, a cutting gauge, a knife and a wide chisel.


    The aim is to make dividers like these ...





    Begin by marking the shoulders of the dovetails ...





    Ensure these lines are deep. Score them with a knife.


    Pencil in the cheeks ...





    The pencil is going to act as a "depth gauge" when dovetailing.


    The Stanley #79 was originally designed to take a slither off the inside of a groove or a dado. I have modified this one by adding an angle (6:1 ratio) to the depth stop ...





    By running the #79 along the edge, the angled blade will now slice away the cheek at a 6:1 ratio ...





    Look carefully at the beginning of the cheek for a sliver of pencil. This shows what has not been cut to the edge ...





    Just work that area. One slice is enough. Done ....





    The drawer blade is 45mm wide, of which 20mm contains a tenon from the mortice-and-tenon joint (created with a Domino). The dovetail socket must remain clear of this, and therefore the maximum length of the Tail is 25mm.


    The 20mm waste is removed with the dozuki ...





    Result ..







    Sockets


    Positioning and marking out the sockets is a aided by a template and blue tape (it would otherwise be impossible to see anything this small in dark wood).





    Time for just one example. I have chosen the more difficult dovetailing into the case. From the rear it is possible to excavate into the case, itself. (This is not possible at the front, and blind sockets will be made there).


    The divider is positioned with all drawer blades inserted - the drawer blades will be removed once the marking out is complete to permit room to work ... there is a lot of removing and replacing throughout!





    The tails are marked ...





    The boundary lines are scored ...





    It is important that the lines are scored from the inside of the square, otherwise they will be in danger of moving to the wrong side.


    Similarly, when positioning a sawing guide (also 6:1 angle), ensure that the saw is inside the cut line ...








    One added advantage of using the saw guide is that accuracy of marking the tails is not critical. The tails are cut at 6:1, and the saw guide just needs the apex of the tails to be marked accurately.


    Sawing with the dozuki leaves a triangle of waste at the far end. The kerf can be extended using a razor saw ...





    With the sidewall cut, zip out most of the waste with a paring chisel ...





    Finish to the desired depth with either a router plane ...





    ... or the wheel gauge ....





    Here is the rear of the case with all the dividers completed ...








    The result is a very solid lattice of drawer blades and dividers. Rock solid!


    Work has now begun on the front drawer dividers ...





    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    A blind sliding dovetail

    This is the front of the cabinet, with all the vertical dividers to install.





    The single lower- and the two dividers need to be fitted into a sliding dovetail ... however, unlike the dividers at the rear, this must be from inside the case. In other words, a blind sliding dovetail.


    This post will show the steps taken for the lowermost, central divider.





    This could not be done without the aid of blue tape. This is used to mark the apex of the tail ...





    This is how the tail will be positioned. Below is where the pin socket has to be cut ...





    A line is scribed at the two apex points, and the dovetailing guide is placed against it ...





    Very carefully, using the dozuki, saw about 5mm from the boundary line. Be careful not to get closer than this. Saw marks must not show outside the dividers.





    Do the other side ...





    Swing the case around and work from the other side. Use the razor saw to cut up to the boundary line ...





    Now chop out (shallowly) the trench/dovetail in the same way one would do a hinge mortice ...





    Finish and level the surface to a depth of 3mm (the height of the tails) with a router plane ...





    The result ...





    What is difficult to see here is that the trench is fractionally wider in the rear half to allow the tail section to enter, and then slide along.


    Unlike the internal tail sections, those used in the blind dovetails require a small beauty rebate ...





    The divider slides along into position ...





    Why do we go to all this trouble to use sliding dovetails? Well, this is how strong they are ... one hand attempting to lift the case ... neither are budging.





    Incidentally, I was asked "how does the drawer run between two dividers?". Well, of course it does not - all will have a rail to guide the drawer ...





    One the lowermost divider is in, the one above it can be marked ...





    Progress to date ...





    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default mighty

    The weight of this would be mighty indeed! It will add mass to that bench

    The sliding dovetail trick was tricky indeed. So clever.

  10. #39
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    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Progress report ..

    I am pleased to get to this stage, with everything still square ....


    ... 24 sliding dovetails done.


    Only a dry fit - now to glue it together ..







    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    It seems so straight forward: build the case, insert drawer frames and dividers, and build the drawers.

    Each step actually requires planning ahead. The devil lies is in the details. These are some of the details we take for granted ...

    Step one is to plane the fronts of the rails and dividers, and fill in any chips with tinted epoxy.

    Even gluing up requires a strategy when the case includes blind sliding dovetails: glue these first.

    The benefit of liquid hide glue is extended open time and repairability. I hope that I do not have to make any repairs, but I could do with the open time as it is 40° Celsius today (that's 104° Fahrenheit). I like a small spatula for placing glue where it needs to go.



    Glue the first set of blind sliding dovetails, and then the other set ...



    Finally glue in the other dividers ...



    Lastly, add the drawer guides. These are just glued in. The spring clamps centre them.



    Once all this is dry, we start to prepare the drawer cases. Each one of these needs to be square at the sides and parallel all the way through.

    The planes I find helpful are these: a rebate jack, a rebate block plane, and a low shoulder plane ...



    For each drawer case there is a drawer-sized insert, generally of MDF or ply. A couple of cross lines aids in determining whether the drawer will be square to the sides.

    The "drawer" here does not enter more than an inch or so ...



    A straight edge along the side reveals that there is a bow ...



    The block plane takes this down ..



    ... tested with the insert. Looking better ...



    A little more planing ... and the insert moves tightly, but smoothly all the way back-and-forth ...



    Every drawer case is dealt with this way ...

    Square edge ..



    Planing ..



    Square and insert ...





    Square and parallel and square ...



    Every drawer case is tuned this way.

    Now we are ready to make drawers

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #41
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    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    This chapter follows on from "Before the Drawers", in which I ended stating, "Now we are one step away from making drawers". And now this chapter is that penultimate step ...


    I need to explain some of the (as I feel) pedantic details I have been outlining. Firstly, I write this for those who are starting out and those who are seeking ways to increase their accuracy. The steps may not be new to some, but we all like to be reassured that others also find them necessary.


    Secondly, I am going to introduce a fixture I built that increases not only accuracy, but speeds up a section of the work. This is the first time I have had a chance to try it in a furniture build.


    So what do we need to do today? Well, we need to cut the drawer parts (minus the drawer bottoms) to build the drawers


    I spent time selecting the wood for the drawer sides and drawer front-and-back. The sides were jointed and thicknessed by machine, and then stickered for a few days ...





    The drawer sides are to be 7mm thick, which is more typical of the drawers I build for furniture than a tool cabinet, however the drawers will each house a tray - some sliding and some cantilevered - which effectively doubles the thickness. My aim is to be sturdy but also save space (since the tool cabinet is on the small side, as it must fit under the work bench).


    The drawer front is 18mm. The drawer back is 12mm.


    For reference, mentioned at the start of the build, the dimensions are:


    Dimensions: 660mm x 400mm x 400mm (26" x 15 3/4" x 15 3/4").


    Small drawers: 205mm x 70mm (8" x 2 3/4")
    Large drawers: 305mm x 95" (12" x 3 3/4")





    Time was taken to select the wood for the drawer fronts.


    The issue here is that I was not after figure, but constancy of grain and colour (although a little tinting could be done with a latter). Lots of combinations tried ...





    Now to the fixture. Actually, there are two fixtures.


    I recently posted a design for a Parallel Guide for a slider table saw (mine is a Hammer K3). This article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...rK3Slider.html





    The other design I posted was for a Micro Adjust for the crosscut fence: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...croAdjust.html





    These new addictions made sizing the drawer fronts and backs much easier, and quicker.


    Generally, I would rip a board to rough size for the drawer front (and back, since they must be an exact copy of each other), and then fine tune it with a shooting board and hand planes. Well, these tools continue to be used, but I can get pretty close to final dimensions on the slider alone. The parallel guide replaces a rip fence, and it is both safer to use as well as leaving a cleaner finish than off a table saw rip fence.


    Here is the crosscut fence cutting the width of a drawer front ...





    With the use of the Micro Adjuster, it is possible to sneak up on the width and "shoot" it with the table saw, to such fine tolerances only previously capable on a shooting board ...






    Minute adjustments can be made to the cut, with the aim of a tight fit side-to-side.


    Once the drawer front is done, it is a simple matter to cut the drawer back using the same setting ..





    Now is the time to rip the height if the drawers fronts and backs (although the drawer backs will receive further shaping at the time of drawer making). This is a test cut. It needs to be repeated for each line of drawers, and checked for each drawer ..





    As mentioned earlier, the aim is a tight fit throughout ...





    Once all are done, comes the time to tune each. The main tool use for the upper edge is a shooting board ...





    Ensure one side fits smoothly ...





    ... and the other ...





    The ends need some tuning as well. This is to remove a smidgeon here-and-there, to ease a section where the sides may be touching or even jamming. It may require a shaving, or just dust. The tool of choice here is a block plane.





    My aim here is a smooth fit - not loose but not tight: at the end, after the dovetailing is done and the sides are glued together, I want the drawer to dry in the drawer case. Therefore, it needs to be able to fit. I expect to do a little tuning still, but the aim now is to prepare for this fit.


    The drawer back needs to be tuned up identically to the drawer front - the smidgeon "here-and-there" included. So, clamp the parts together ...





    I prefer a sharp, wide chisel to pare away the excess waste from the drawer back ...





    This leaves the fronts and backs ready, so ...





    The last task is to saw the drawer sides. This is made a quick job by the parallel guide, and using the drawer fronts as a template.


    Once side of a drawer front will dimension the height of that drawer side ...





    Rip it ...





    Test the fit in the drawer case. Any tight spots can be removed with a shooting board or block plane. This is what we are after ...





    ... and eventually ...





    Now we are ready to start dovetailing.


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  13. #42
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Default Dovetailing for Blood!

    Bill and I have been discussing drawer-making. We have different approaches since our target audience is a different group. Bill is better aligned with production work, aiming to build a drawer as quickly as possible. He is less concerned with aesthetics (although his work always looks exceptionally good) and more focussed on finding shortcuts to increase speedier construction. My work is aimed at being the best I can, with a focus on traditional construction completed to as near perfection as I can muster (which sounds grander in words than in practice!).


    I argue that my drawer-making is quite speedy. The speed comes from minimising unnecessary tasks by planning ahead. This is not immediately apparent in that I use techniques that appear to add extra work. In actual effect, they reduce errors and thereby reduce the time required to tune or repair joinery. My aim is to get it as right as possible - immediately. One example if this is that I do not check whether the drawer is square after glue up ... because the drawer will dry in the drawer case, and so fitting the drawer case is what is important.


    Now the issue about fitting the drawer case is that this is only possible if the dovetailing is a flush fit, and ready to go into the drawer case. It is expected to be a tightish fit, which will need to receive just a small amount of final tuning. The level of expertise involved here is not really that high; it is more about the approach. I believe anyone can do the same, and this is the motivation to write this chapter. I am sure that Bill will likely do the same ... I look forward to learning from his approach, adding technique to my own.


    The discussion started when Bill questioned why I had cut all the drawer parts (sans the drawer bottom) for this cabinet ...





    Bill makes one drawer at a time. He does this as he is concerned the wood will move .. warp or twist .. if it is allowed to rest. My argument is that speed comes from massed repetition: returning to saw all the parts separately is slow. I do not fear the drawer sides moving as I use quarter sawn timber for drawer sides, which is very stable. The wood here is Tasmanian Oak (which is actually an Australian Eucalyptus).


    The drawer-making process is divided into three stages: first comes the (half-blind) dovetailing of the sides to the front. The groove or slips for the drawer bottom is added later.


    Secondly, the drawer back is (through) dovetailed to the sides. This relies on the height of the groove, and the reason it is completed later and not up front.


    Thirdly, the drawer bottom is made and inserted.


    What I wish to demonstrate here is the first stage: dovetailing the front to the sides.


    Here are the parts. The Tassie Oak sides are 1/4” (6.35mm) thick and the Jarrah front is 3/4” (18mm).





    The inside face of the drawer sides is planed to remove any machine marks ...





    We will cut Tails First, so mark the tail board ...





    To speed marking of the tails, a template (or story stick) is made. This will set out the tails for the top two rows, six drawers in all.





    The tails are sawn. Note that there is a line of blue tape to help my aging eyes know when to stop cutting!





    An important step is to undercut the baselines. This will increase accuracy when paring ...





    Fretsaw the waste as close to the baseline as possible. I generally leave about 1mm ...





    Saw away the half sockets at each side, as usual. But now possible to set the chisel in the chisel wall and use a single down stroke to sever all the waste in the internal sockets, leaving the tail board done.


    Mark the web on the drawer front. For 18-19mm drawer fronts, I keep make this 5mm wide.





    Once again, to aid visibility, blue tape is applied to underline the baseline ...





    ... and the pins. Here it extends to the web line ...





    This next bit is extremely important, and can make-or-break the final result. The tails are transferred to the pin board. A single bevel knife is preferred. This will hug the wall of the socket, and slice the tape in a single stroke.


    Secondly, the tail board is held firmly by a clamp, and is positioned squarely using a combination square. The square is placed along the reference edge, which is the lower edge of the drawer side. This will switch when the other side is marked out. The importance of this technique cannot be overstated: a squared joint is a prerequisite for a perfect fit. Anything that is not square will require planing, and a lot more tuning.





    Below is the result of sawing to the line (is the sawing is more accurate than the dropped lines In practice, the dropped lines are unnecessary if you have a decent sense of plumb) ....





    Another time saver comes in the form of deepening the kerfs. This is my version of Tage Frid’s scraper method, a “kerfing chisel”.


    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #43
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    Default

    With the kerfs deepened, remove all the blue tape, and deepen the base lines ...





    Undercut the baselines to create a chisel wall for each socket ...





    Chisel in the chisel wall and three moderately firm hammer blows. The chisel wall prevents the chisel moving backwards and over the baseline. This means that chiseling can start at the baseline, itself, and reduces later extra paring ...





    Split out the waste ...





    With hard Jarrah and a decent Japanese chisel, it takes me three rows to get within 3mm (1/8”) of the web line. I stop at this point ...





    This is repeated at the other end of the board ...





    Back to the Moxon Vise: the sockets are cleared by paring the remainder in 1mm slices ..





    Cleaning out the socket was facilitated by earlier extending the kerfs, and now with a corner chisel ...





    It is all about “release cuts”, as David Charlesworth has written in his articles over the years. Create a release cut, and waste will fall away without a fight. The deepened kerfs mean that there is no further paring needed at the sides of the sockets. Clearing the waste is a matter of splitting it out. The chopping is a release cut here.


    Finally! The dovetailed sides are tapped into the sockets of the drawer front. The goal here is that they fit “off the saw”, and no further work is needed? Note that the small section here does not only protect the surface, but it ensures it is driven flush ...





    How did we do? Here is one side ...





    And here is the other side with the “drawer” inserted into the drawer case ...





    The drawer can be pushed flush into the drawer case, which was the target at the start ...





    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  15. #44
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    Sep 2012
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    Default

    One of the best threads on this forum imho. Should seriously consider self publishing it into a book

    Jealous of all the timber your able to use for this build. So so nice.

    Sent from my Nokia 5.3 using Tapatalk

  16. #45
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    Perth
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    One of the best threads on this forum imho. Should seriously consider self publishing it into a book

    Jealous of all the timber your able to use for this build. So so nice.

    Sent from my Nokia 5.3 using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the kind thought.

    The case is made from cheap Merbau panels from Bunnings. Stained to match the Jarrah drawer fronts .... a couple of boards - which were easier to access from Bunnings as well.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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