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Thread: WIP - Really basic
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16th May 2013, 08:31 PM #31
Springy
I think he had an objection to the new format of the forum. I guess he had come to terms with the old format and didn't want to learn a new process. I was always amazed that he worked out of a shed that was only the size of a small lawn locker. I think he had to move outside to do any work larger than a jewelry box.
Regards
PaulLast edited by Bushmiller; 16th May 2013 at 10:12 PM. Reason: missed a word
Bushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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16th May 2013 08:31 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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16th May 2013, 08:51 PM #32
Woah 2.7m would've been a task and a half, he really must have wanted to do it, good on him. I hope he can get to the Spotty before too long. Just wondering Bushy, did the blank come from a specific section of the tree? Also wondering if it's the density or something or other that Iron Bark and Spotty have that produces a good instrument or is it just that they have the capabilities of holding together with a hole up their guts. Why not use a wood such as Huon say?
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16th May 2013, 08:58 PM #33
I've rolled out the hammock for this one - think I'll nap between progress posts
Have to say I'm rather impressed that you are milling the timber yourself and using that to craft a bench, magicregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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16th May 2013, 09:01 PM #34
Springy
I am no expert on the qualities of musical instruments, but my takes on it is that it is a sound box. I think the density of the timber and the thickness of the wall are the important points. The longer didges tend to be deeper in their sound.
That particular piece of spotty was a branch. I do have another piece from the trunk which will not yield much in the way of timber and I will make a second blank from it.
Why not Huon pine? Well if the previous owners of our house had chosen to make their stockyards out of Huon I suppose that is what Simon would have used, but they chose Ironbark instead. I think 40 years durability in the ground was more important to them than didge production .
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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16th May 2013, 09:19 PM #35
Thanks Bushy, all the best with it and if it's not a hassle a WIP of the Didge would be much appreciated down the track
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16th May 2013, 09:53 PM #36
Air Drying preparations
I started today to prepare the site for airdrying the spotty. Now the ideal place would be on a concrete slab away from buildings, but this is the real world. Hell, I don't even have a concrete floor in the work shed!
I have a spot away from buildings and in lieu of a slab I poured eight concrete footings today. I will be placing concrete breeze blocks on these and then bearers on those. As you can see the pads are not aligned well as they are only footings, but I did want them close to level to make final leveling easier. I didn't feel I could get the levels close without building frames.
I was lucky in that I scored three discarded pallets 2m plus long from the tip at work. The softwood boards I ripped to use for these footing formworks. One pallet had hardwood boards and I have ripped each into three and I have made up nearly sixty stickers from those. It won't be enough but at least I can use hardwood for the lowers layers where the weight is heaviest and I will supplement that with softwood bearers higher up.
The wide boards from the thirdpallet I have made into two laminated beams as I did not have any suitable timber (that I wanted to part with) for this purpose. It is only softwood, but the spans are small and it will end up about 130mm x 80 after dressing on the jointer and thicknesser. Now for some piccys;
air drying spotty 001.jpg
But there was a small problem when I returned for final troweling
air drying spotty 003.jpgair drying spotty 004.jpg
Two of them had been damaged by birds. Probably a pee wee! The little coots are inquisitive and fiercely territorial. If you see one with concrete boots it'll be the one. Oh yes it'll be flying fairly low too .
No matter, I was able to smooth the concrete out. More pix next week as I'm off to the Brissy show early tomorrow. If any of you are going there, be sure to call in at the Forum stand and say G'day.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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16th May 2013, 10:03 PM #37
Thanks Paul for the tutorial.... I'm learning something I didn't know anything about.....
On the photos.... Make sure you get some from the Brissy show for all to see, please.
Be safe, avoid the issues of the Dalby trip and have a beaut couple of days at the ekka/wood show.
Cheers, crowie
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16th May 2013, 10:14 PM #38
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16th May 2013, 10:18 PM #39
Peter
I'm pretty ordinary with a camera (probably without a camera too ), but I'm sure somebody will work something out. I don't have to go through Dalby but the roadworks are horrendous between Millmerran and Toowoomba. I think there are around ten sets at least and the range is another hold up. Leaving early to compensate.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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18th May 2013, 08:23 AM #40Senior Member
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Pegs and Tails
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21st May 2013, 08:19 PM #41
My plan for the bench was to have three vices. I've oggled over the Benchcrafted leg vice but reasoned that after forking out for the MCW vice and the HNT Gordon tail vice enough was enough and I would fabricate the mechanism.
While I was at the Brissy show I saw the tail vice below on the McJing stand. At $55 I thought that will do me. much of the rest is relatively easy to put together. Originally I was thinking in terms of a chrome handwheel as I am attracted to the bright and shiny (I may have been a bower bird in a former existence), but now I am leaning towards a timber handwheel. If I laminate four or five layers of spotted gum I should end up with something strong enough.
I am quite warming to the handwheel looking like something out of a 1930s sports car . Perhaps I can call it a Bentley Roubo .
air drying spotty 008.jpg
The shaft is 1 1/4" or was it 32mm ? I don't really remember and it probably doesn't matter. Sufficiently robust for my purposes either way.
Oh, I posted some more preparatory work for the air drying stack on the timber milling forum, but won't get to build the stack until the weekend so if you are not thrilled at the prospect of looking at sixty hardwood stickers or the laminated beam shown in the above pic you can hold on to your curiosity until after the weekend .
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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21st May 2013, 08:25 PM #42
tail vice or leg vice?
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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21st May 2013, 09:09 PM #43
. Good question Nick.
I am hoping to build a leg vice. I think the part I bought is called a tail vice screw. This is from the Timbecon page on vices:
Product Search
McJing call it a bench screw.
McJING Online Tools Products Search
Carbatec call it a tail vice screw:
Carba-Tec® Tail Vise Screw : CARBA-TEC
I hope that clears it up .
I'm searching for a Bently decal or an Invicta or a Horch, Alvis Jaguar SS etc etc for the steering wheel, ummm I mean handwheel .
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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21st May 2013, 10:01 PM #44
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21st May 2013, 10:45 PM #45
Just a little bit modern for me (apologies to Lola, who is very modern ). The 541R is more my scene. This one is 1959 and I think in Australia .
Jensen1959 541R.jpg
But I do understand why you would put a vote in for the FF .
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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