Thread: WIP Shaker Workbench with Split Top

Originally Posted by KahoyCutter

As a noob, the threads and videos I find of most benefit are build threads particularly those where the maker documents their mistakes and how they went about fixing things. With this in mind, I thought I'd swallow my pride and share my most recent stuff up and my attempts at fixing things. ...

First up is my initial stuff up....

Without exception, Mike, we have all been there, but usually I keep quiet, feeling both rather foolish for the stuff up and quietly proud of the recovery or relieved that no one else will notice. My recoveries are not always as successful as yours - eg the one piece of matching timber is 50mm too short!

Some time ago the title of one of the subforums was changed from Big Stuff to the more accurate and expressive Furniture, Joinery, Cabinetmaking.

Perhaps this has created an opportunity for a new subforum titled "Big Stuff Ups"

I'm unashamedly a new woodworker and when I post my builds I tend to come clean on my stuff ups.........mostly. If I detailed them all those threads would be a good deal longer. I don't feel too embarrassed about them since I have much to learn and some of my builds have been fairly ambitious. I reckon I'll feel like a newbie until I've been at this for twenty years. Anyway, I reckon those admissions by myself and other woodworkers here only add to the utility of this already excellent site. They say you learn more from your defeats than your victories, or at least you should if you have any sense, so let it all hang out Mike, we're all in the same boat.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Perhaps this has created an opportunity for a new subforum titled "Big Stuff Ups"

I reckon I'd be a regular contributor to that subforum if it existed!!

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Perhaps this has created an opportunity for a new subforum titled "Big Stuff Ups"

Originally Posted by KahoyKutter

I reckon I'd be a regular contributor to that subforum if it existed!!

If there is enough interest shown, I could set it up.

Maybe start a new thread to see if there is enough interest to do so.

Originally Posted by DJ’s Timber

If there is enough interest shown, I could set it up.

Maybe start a new thread to see if there is enough interest to do so.

I think that's a great idea. Could he any project their working on and how it was overcome or resolved/repaired.

Useful to have in one central sub topic

Originally Posted by delbs

I think that's a great idea. Could he any project their working on and how it was overcome or resolved/repaired.

Useful to have in one central sub topic

I’d be in it so much there wouldn’t be any time for more stuff ups

I must say I was pretty shocked that you used a Forstner bit in a router when I saw the picture of the router I assumed you used a piece of scrap with the correct size hole drilled in it and cut the hole using a flush trim router bit. All's well that ends well though, good to see you got a result in the end.

Cheers Andrew

Originally Posted by AJ.

I must say I was pretty shocked that you used a Forstner bit in a router when I saw the picture of the router I assumed you used a piece of scrap with the correct size hole drilled in it and cut the hole using a flush trim router bit. All's well that ends well though, good to see you got a result in the end.

Cheers Andrew

Yep, it was definitely one of those "Don't try this at home, kids" moment. But I've learnt my lesson, I won't be doing that again. In the future, I'll be going the hand tools route and using a brace drill with an expansive auger bit. I've already ordered them online. It's a good excuse to buy more toys!!

I reckon a great idea.

Something I very much like about Derek Cohen's write-ups is the explanation of occasional errors and workarounds or corrections. You learn a lot from "why this way and not other ways" instead of just "here is what I did, doesn't it look great".

An aspect of Paul Sellers' videos that I think many appreciate is the "whups" moments are not edited out - a single, continuous take is the standard.

My big thing is that whenever I use my domino machine I just inevitably stick a domino hole somewhere it shouldn't go. I feel my hallmark is an empty or filled domino hole sticking out somewhere.

Originally Posted by DJ’s Timber

If there is enough interest shown, I could set it up.

Maybe start a new thread to see if there is enough interest to do so.

Originally Posted by Cgcc

My big thing is that whenever I use my domino machine I just inevitably stick a domino hole somewhere it shouldn't go. I feel my hallmark is an empty or filled domino hole sticking out somewhere.

Oh yeah! On my kid chairs, Ive done this 100 times! Grrr.....

Hey mate,

Just wondering how the spotted gum top has been holding up. I am cutting up some spotted gum slabs for the top of the work bench I'm building and I'm just wondering whether you've gotten any movement, how often you've had to plane it, etc?

Originally Posted by yoboseyo

Hey mate,

Just wondering how the spotted gum top has been holding up. I am cutting up some spotted gum slabs for the top of the work bench I'm building and I'm just wondering whether you've gotten any movement, how often you've had to plane it, etc?

The spotted gum top has been holding up extremely well and pretty much as I expected. I've only just put on a few layers of finish the other day and I've been pretty much using the bench unprotected for about 2 months before then. Spotted gum is so hard, especially this reclaimed old growth stuff that I've used, that it suffers less dings and scratches. The con is that it's so hard to flatten by hand due to the interlocked grain and figure throughout the boards.

There hasn't been any real movement as such and I don't expect there to be due to the timber being reclaimed and well seasoned. You also have to take into consideration that by face laminating boards together, you are in fact creating one big quarter-sawn slab where most of the movement will be along the thickness instead of the width. Laminating boards also helps with any twisting, cupping, bowing, etc. It's one of the reasons why big structural beams are made from laminated boards. The top is as flat as the day I flattened it. I do not expect to flatten it for several years and if/when I do "re-surface" it, it will be to clean up the dings and scratches as opposed to get rid of any twist/bow/cupping. I think most of the horror stories about having to flatten bench tops stems from a time when one solid slab (or two in the case of a split-top) were used. That's one of the main advantages of a laminated top. The other is you can use a number of smaller/thinner boards and you don't have to source a giant thick slab which are often difficult to dry and prone to surface checking. And the thinner and more boards you use, the more stable the top. The disadvantage is it will take more work (and glue). Even if I did have a couple of such slabs lying around, I still would have laminated boards for my bench top for the very reasons I've mentioned.

Gday Mike,

Can i ask which specific Spiral upcut router bit performed the cuts for HNT tail vice install for you? something like this? 3 Flute - Finishing Spiral Bit - Up Cut - Solid Carbide - Carbitool

Cheers,
Nathan

Originally Posted by delbs

Gday Mike,

Can i ask which specific Spiral upcut router bit performed the cuts for HNT tail vice install for you? something like this? 3 Flute - Finishing Spiral Bit - Up Cut - Solid Carbide - Carbitool

Cheers,
Nathan

Nathan,



20210803_161540.jpg 20210803_162424.jpg


This is what I used. I can't remember where I got it from (eBay?). It's only a 2 flute upcut bit but more importantly it has a 2" cutting height. IIRC, the depth of the mortise required for the tail vise is around 40mm if I'm not mistaken. The one you linked is not quite long enough (1.25"). Something like this downcut bit from Timbecon (SCD-127-XH). A downcut bit should give you a cleaner mortise opening but saying that, I would make the final cut by hand, i.e. a sharp bench chisel. I just don't trust myself with a router.


EDIT: Come to think of it, I think the bit was being sold by a fellow forum member - aldav (?). I'm not 100% sure. It might pay to send him a PM. IIRC, it was quite reasonably priced (<$90) and I've been very happy with the results it has produced.





Cheers,
Mike