Returning to work has slowed progress somewhat but I've managed to fit in some workshop time this long weekend (for me).....
Attachment 488676
.....I've routed the rebate for the sliding dead man, applied 3 coats of Osmo PolyX and 2 coast of paste wax.......
Attachment 488677
....then I dry-fitted it to make sure the deadman slid smoothly :2tsup:
Meanwhile, a new toy arrived......
Attachment 488678
I can see myself getting carried away and branding EVERYTHING !!! :rolleyes:
Attachment 488679
I applied some more Osmo and paste wax to the sliding deadman so that glue doesn't stick to it when I laminate the outer board. With that out of the way, I can cut the dovetails on the ends of the boards.....
Attachment 488680
As I've admitted earlier, my hand-sawing sucks and I don't trust myself to saw plumb, so I decided to use the bandsaw. I attached two pieces of 32mm MDF cut at the appropriate angle so I could reference the fence.
Attachment 488667
Here is the result. The 1.25" Resaw King blade produces a very smooth finish almost rivalling the table saw. I also used the bandsaw to cut a 5mm rebate on the underside of the dovetails so that it's easier to register when marking out the pins. This left the dovetails 30mm thick. Note the chisel wall I've created to help me do the cross cut with my Dozuki. Yep, my sawing is that bad !! I've saved the 5mm thick "rebate" tails to use as clamp pads for when I finally do the glue up.
Attachment 488668
Here it is all done. I'm perhaps being too ambitious by going for really thin "London" pins but this whole build is all about pushing my self.
Time to mark the pins.....
Attachment 488669
My search for the perfect marking knife continues. Here I am using my Blue Spruce marking knife which has the large spear point blade installed. I'm using the large blade because I need the length to reach down into the bottom corner of the pins. My gripe is twofold. First, the blade is too thick to fit between the tails. Second, the blade is pulled out when I draw the knife back. I've tightened the collet as much as I can by hand but it still pulls out some times. I've bought Blue Spruce's hand-forged marking knife but it hasn't arrived yet. It will probably be thicker again but at least it will solve the 2nd problem. I think I will have to make my own marking knife to get what I want but I'll first have to find a single bevel spear-point blade with a similar reach but thinner without it flexing too much. If anyone know of such a blade, please let me know.
Attachment 488672
Here it is with with the lines darkened with a pencil. Now comes the hand-sawing part :C. There's no way around it, I gotta hand cut the pins. At least plumbness isn't so much of an issue with the pins. As long as the top lines are straight and crisp, the rest will be hidden after assembly....
Attachment 488675
Here is the other end after my efforts. It's not pretty but it's probably the best I can do. I think a couple are actually plumb but most aren't. I find it harder when it's an angled cut instead ones that are just straight across. Hopefully with practise I'll get a lot better.
Attachment 488673
Attachment 488674
Here are a couple after cleaning out the waste. I'm not sure what type of maple Lie Nielsen use for their dovetail vises but whatever it is it's so much easier to work with than Purpleheart/Spotted Gum/BlackButt/Ironbark. If this rock or hard maple, then I can understand why it's commonly used for workbenches and cabinets. I wish it was readily available locally.
To be continued......