Results 166 to 180 of 263
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3rd August 2021, 08:33 PM #166
Great thanks for the heads up. Yeah I intend on cleaning it up by hand also. Interested in the bits to hog away the waste and. I'll try to remember to keep an eye on the router fence also
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3rd August 2021 08:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th August 2021, 11:31 PM #167
I've been travelling for work since my last update so progress has been slow. The few opportunities I've had to play in my shop I've mainly spent restoring a set of Yankee braces I've recently acquired. I've managed to get a bit more done on the bench so I thought I'd share what little progress I've made......
20210711_172747 (1).jpg
Firstly, here's the finished result of my brass medallion inlay. The darker ring around it is epoxy because I rounded the shoulder of the mortise before deciding to encase the whole medallion in epoxy. The medallion is probably 2mm below the surface. It's not perfect, but a huge improvement over my wonky branding attempt.
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Next up I replaced the paper on my homemade sanding jointer with 240 grit and did my final sanding of the top. The sanding jointer certainly isn't pretty, but it sure did a great job of keeping the top flat.
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Here's the bench with one coat of Osmo Poly X (3011 Clear Gloss). I contemplated putting a layer of blonde hard shellac before the Osmo but in the end I stuck to with what I knew works. I end up applying 5 or 6 layers with a non-abrasive (white) scouring pad and then a layer of paste wax. The paste wax was probably unnecessary but so too were the 4th to 6th coat of Osmo. Yep, I freely admit that I'm a "belt-and-suspenders" kinda guy.
Next up is finishing the leg vise and applying a thick leather lining......
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First, I use mask the inside face with green (low tack) masking tape. This is to prevent any finish and allow the leather to adhere directly to bare timber. I then use the vise to squeeze a scrap piece of ply against the leg to ack as a cutting board to allow me to trim off the excess tape with my marking knife. Next, I sand the outside face of the chop to 600 grit. "Why go up to 600 grit", I hear you ask. For the simple reason that's the highest grit I had and I wanted to see what the results would be like with Osmo. I again apply 5 layers Osmo and I must say, I'm quite pleased with the results.
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Here's the bit of veg-tanned leather I bought to line the leg vise.....
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........it's more than 5mm thick !!!
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I clamp the leather with the vise and traced around it allowing for 1mm of overhang on all 3 sides.
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I've decided on Titebond Hide Glue as my adhesive of choice. How can you not use hide glue to glue a piece of hide ?!? This is the first time I've ever used hide glue so I decide to err on the side of caution and use probably half of the bottle. At least that's what it felt like.
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I'm pretty sure there's a leg vise under all those clamps !!!
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After the glue had dried, I trim the excess with a sharp chisel.
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Here it is all finished. The leather is so thick it almost looks like a bit of ply.
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A bit of dry lube on the vise threads has it spinning like a top again. I use dry lube because it doesn't leave a sticky residue in which sawdust can cling to. I also apply some on the threads and chain of my moxon vise. Next to the Dry lube is some blue Loctite equivalent that I use on the knobs on the end of the vise handle to stop them from coming loose unintentionally.
That's it for this update, folks. Next update will hopefully be about the cabinet door.....
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I've already rough-dimensioned the material for it. At the moment, they're around an inch thick. I'm thinking that may be a bit much and I may bring it down closer to 20mm......but that's for next time.
Cheers,
Mike
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6th August 2021, 01:01 PM #168GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for posting Mike. I love your updates.
Unrelated question but have you had a chance to play with the badger plane you bought? I was blown away by the heft of mine but it has taken a littling fiddling to get the blade set right. Recently used it to finish of rebates in custom made widow jambs and sill and it was pure bliss. If yours is as nice as mine I think we both have ended up with beautiful (and highly functional) tools.
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6th August 2021, 03:05 PM #169Originally Posted by KahoyKutter
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6th August 2021, 03:45 PM #170Senior Member
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and what is a “Badger Plane”
"World's oldest kid"
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6th August 2021, 06:22 PM #171
Hi MA,
TBH, no, I haven't had a chance to try mine out let alone use it in anger. I have to get around to sharpening the blade and restoring the plane in general. It's not that the plane needs restoring, it was my intention all along. Plus I wanna personalise it, i.e. inlay my logo somewhere. I'm glad to hear that you're happy with yours and how it performs. I'm sure I will be too if/when I get to that point !!! It may climb further up my "to do" list if I start a project that requires it. Cheers.
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6th August 2021, 07:03 PM #172
Hi Graeme,
I'm no expert on the matter ( I hadn't even heard of them until about a couple of months ago, and now I own 4 with 2 more on the way !!!), but they're a hand brace drill manufactured originally by North Bros Co early in the 20th century before being swallowed up by Stanley. At one stage they were still being manufactured in the original North Bros plant and were stamped with "....a Division of Stanley Tools...". Stanley eventually made some slight changes to the original design and started selling them without the Yankee branding or any references to North Bros. These examples are usually more correctly referred to a Stanley 2101a-XX where the XX denotes the size according to the sweep of the brace, e.g. one with a 10" sweep would have the model designation of 2101a-10.
If I'm not mistaken (again, I'm no expert), North Bros originally had a contract to supply Bell System (the US's equivalent to Telstra) and there are models of their braces with the Bell System branding (in addition to the Yankee branding) as well. I think North Bros's contract may have been one of the reasons that attracted Stanley to the company. Stanley continued supplying hand braces to Bell System for many more years and there are many more Stanley Bell System braces then the North Bros variety or any other variety from what I can tell. All of these different iterations are all generally labelled as "Yankee Braces".
Yankee braces are considered by many to be the pinnacle of hand brace development and I definitely agree. What sets them above most other braces are: 1) a fully enclosed ratcheting mechanism; 2) ball bearing pad; 3) ball bearing chuck; 4) robust construction; 5) they are reputed to have the most secure clamping system which even works on normal round shanks (i.e. not just on the square tapered shanks on standard augers). I haven't tried this for myself so I can't say for sure; 6) the handle and pad is made from a very hard rubber. Wood looks better but the rubber is more durable and isn't prone to cracking/splitting, etc. I think this was an important consideration for Bell System with their linesmen (I don't believe there were any linewomen at the time) often using (and dropping) them from great heights; and 7) a silky smooth ratcheting mechanism that is more akin to a fine Swiss watch (probably an exaggeration). There's no other ratchet mechanism like it out there. Whereas most braces have a very industrial/crude "clunk" every time the ratcheting mechanism engages a gear, the Yankees have a much softer "ticking" note (again, not dissimilar to an analogue clock). The movement is so smooth that you can spin the chuck like a top.
Below are a few pics:
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Yankee Branding on my North Bros 10" from the period when they were bought out by Stanley but still being manufactured in the North Bros plant.
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The one at the top is the Nth Bros 10" (I'm making a custom case for it in which the brace handle will stick out and act as the handle for the case) and the bottom one is a Stanley Bell System 8". The "65" stamped on the 8" is a previous owner's mark and does not denote model number or year of manufacture (as far as I know).
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The bare frames of my 12" (bottom) and 14" (top) models that I'm in the process of restoring. The 12" is a North Bros (very early example I believe). I've just re-installed the top pad after stripping it right down and cleaning the ball bearing assembly. The 14" is just a Stanley 2101a (i.e. not one made for Bell System). I'm waiting for some parts (ball bearings) and I have to fabricate the ratchet spring before I can complete the restoration.
Cheers,
Mike
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6th August 2021, 07:12 PM #173
TBH, I do not know the answer myself. If I had to guess, a badger plane is a Jack-sized wooden handplane with a skewed blade designed for cutting rebates (rabbets for the Yanks). Below is a pic of the plane in question....
20210806_171256#1.jpg
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6th August 2021, 08:37 PM #174
Screen Shot 2021-08-06 at 7.16.46 pm.jpg
Will you look at that !!! I was almost spot on with my guess. I swear I didn't cheat and looked it up before posting !! The one thing I missed was that the blade, cap iron, and wedge are slightly angled as well to allow the plane to protrude on one side in order to facilitate planing right up against a shoulder. Apparently they're also called panel-raising planes as they were used to make raised panels.
20210806_192006#1.jpg
This is the other side of the plane which shows the blade assembly protruding out the side.
Now.......I just got to find out how they became to be named badger planes. Does anyone know if badgers have a wonky tooth sticking out of one side? Looks like more Googlin'......
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6th August 2021, 08:43 PM #175
Ok......I was totally off the mark with my last guess. Apparently "The Badger plane is believe to get its name from a Charles Badger who worked as a planemaker in Scotland 1863 (RA Salaman)".
And from the same website: "they are designed to cut on both the long grain and end grain sides resulting in a rabbet all around the "Panel" piece." It looks to be quite a useful plane. I had no idea what I was buying. I just wanted to restore and play around with an old wooden plane !!!
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7th August 2021, 09:19 AM #176GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Mike. I bought mine in part because I saw a guy on YouTube using one to clean up the rebate on wooden moulding planes. So far I have cut this on the tablesaw and cleaned up with a couple of different planes. Considering how many more moulding planes I intend to make, I will make good use of my badger plane's width. I have not used it on end grain yet. Careful when you sharpen, it is easy to round over the point of the blade on the end of tbe skew (the bit that sticks out). I freaked out a bit when I did it to mine, worried that performance might be affected but so far so good (and I can always grind it back and start again)
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7th August 2021, 10:47 PM #177
Thanks for the tip, MA. If you don't mind me asking, why did you choose the one without the fence? I've always wondered about that.
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8th August 2021, 12:29 AM #178GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Mike. Because I knew it was going to go to such a nice bloke . No...I thought it might be the more flexible option (but of course one can simply remove the fence if needed). Tom offered it for the same price but I was happy enough with my choice. As mentioned I see myself using it more to clean up rebates rather than using it solely to create them (it's a wide blade!) And it feels so solid in use. I feel lucky to have such a nice tool (and one day I hope to have a bench as nice as yours too )
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8th August 2021, 03:37 PM #179
Yankee Brace
Thanks, Mike, for such a thorough and enlightening explanation. I had never heard of North Brothers or their Yankee brand - your photos certainly depict rather interesting looking and apparently superior tools.
But I still think that you should have said two braces rather than a pair of braces - the latter is contextually misleading, to my befuddled brain.
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8th August 2021, 07:18 PM #180
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