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  1. #61
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    Nov 2016
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    Bris
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Looking good KK.

    Thanks mate.


    I've just designed my logo and commissioned a branding iron......


    WW logo 6b.jpg


    As you can see, it's a wooden M with a significant crack held together by a couple of butterfly/bow ties. A rather apt commentary on the flawed person that I am. Now I just got to find someone in Brisbane with a CNC router to inlay it to the left side end cap for me.

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  3. #62
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    Oct 2018
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    Dandenong Ranges
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    We could probably all use some butterflies at times!

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Bentleigh East
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    50
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    423

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    I strongly suspect your scraps are better than my best timber and your workbench is better than my dining table. And I'm talking about your old bench

    This is amazing, I've been reading and not saying much because I'm in awe... can't wait to see it finished!

  5. #64
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    Nov 2016
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    Bris
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyro View Post
    I strongly suspect your scraps are better than my best timber and your workbench is better than my dining table. And I'm talking about your old bench

    This is amazing, I've been reading and not saying much because I'm in awe... can't wait to see it finished!


    Comments like yours reassures me that I'm heading in the right direction. Thank you and to those that have commented/liked/thanked/etc. It means the world to me.



    Thanks again and I wish everyone a Happy New Year,

    Mike


  6. #65
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    Nov 2016
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    Bris
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    OK, I have cleaned up the ends.....
























































    The right side was pretty straight forward. I used my track saw (TS75) except with a straight bit of MDF as a fence to get the maximum depth of cut. You sacrifice 6mm of depth when using the track. This left about inch of material which I removed with my small Ryoba. The MDF clamped to the enderside is for extra registration so the cut doesn't wander from the intended line. This was the easy side


    The left side was more difficult because it has tenons. I planned for this when I laminated the top by pre-cutting the bottom shoulder on each plank before glue up. The top shoulder was to be cut after all the planks had been laminated. I then lined up each plank so that the underside shoulders were within 0.5mm each other. It would have made flushing up the bottom shoulder so much easier. But then I changed how I'm going to secure the middle of the end caps to the top. The ends of the endcap are still to be dovetailed to the outer planks, but the middle (i.e. near the "split") I had originally intended to be pulled tight to the slabs using Timbecon's knock down bolts. I even pre-drilled the 1" holes for the cross nuts. Then I went and got all ambitious and fancy. You know my post where I shared my logo and how I mentioned I wanted to have it inlaid into the left end cap ? Well, that pretty much rules out the use of the knock down bolts as the location of the bolts will pretty much be where I want the inlay. So I had to think of another way of fixing the end caps which will still allow the slabs to expand towards the "split".


    What I decided on was to use draw-bored dowels. This is not something I've come up with. It's a traditional way of securing breadboard ends and I've seen several clips on Youtube. I can't remember where I saw it first so I don't know who to credit. This solution, however, introduces another problem. That being, my tenons were too short. They ended up about 22mm long and even using 9.5mm dowels as the draw-bore pins, it didn't leave much "meat"on the end of the tenons or the endcap (about 6mm of material). So I've had to move my shoulder line by about 10mm. The top shoulder is not an issue because I can just use my track saw, but the underside shoulder is fair bit trickier. I tried hand sawing, hand chiselling, and even my Fein Multimaster - fail, fail, and fail .
























































    I went with my Makita trimmer knock off with plunge base and fence with a 1/4" spiral upcut bit. I referenced the fence on the top tenon cheek and the base riding on the end face of the tenon. The tenon is only 28mm thick so I had to be careful that the bit stayed plumb to the surface. I was quite doubtful that it would work but the after the first pass, I knew this was the way to go.


















































    It became more difficult to keep the router plumb the further I extended the fence. This resulted in the underside shoulder being raggedy but one would have to bend right down to see it. I'm not too fussed about it. To think I came close to selling the plunge base for my trimmer when someone posted a WTB thread on the Marketplace!! I didn't think I'd ever use it because I've got the OF1400 but there's no way I could have balanced that size of a router on the end of the tenon. I'm so glad I decided to keep the plunge base.




























































    Here's the result after cleaning it up a bit. You can see the original shoulder line and how much I've had to move it back. With that out of the way, I moved on to cutting the corresponding mortices on the end cap.


















































    I used blue tape to make my layout lines more visible. It's so hard to see the pencil lines on purpleheart. I drilled the holes for the draw-bore pins and then used a 25mm Forstner bit to hog out most of the waste and a chisel to remove the "peaks".























































    I then used my plunge router with the two fences on both sides sandwiching the piece. And I was glad that I used the two fences when I forgot about feeding the router in the correct direction and it "ran away" from me. The two fences prevented the router from chewing outside the line, not that it would have mattered much because this is all going to be unseen. Note the bag of purpleheart sawdust I've saved for when I do the condor tails, not that I expect I'll need it (famous last words !!!).



















































    Here's the end cap dry-fitted so I can mark the locations for the draw bore holes on the tenon. That purpleheart end cap is looking a bit bare and the logo inlaid into it should "blink it up" significantly.






























































































































    With the draw-bore locations marked on the tenons, I drilled the holes. The middle "holes" actually has to be a slot to allow for contraction and expansion of the top.



    Now it's on to the right side end cap. The Lie Nielsen afficianadoes amongst us would have realised from my previous update that the right side end cap is in fact the rear chop of a Lie Nielsen 24" Dovetail/Moxon Vise. Yep, I intend to install the dovetail vise directly on the end. This means I have to drill clearance holes for the twin screws....






















































    To make sure I don't make any measuring stuff ups, I plonk the end cap right at the edge and use a square to transfer the location. The screws on the vise are 28mm in diameter and the clearance hole on the chop is 32mm. I opted for more clearance by drilling a 35mm hole. The trick is drilling the deep holes (175mm on the left and 150mm on the right) plumb. I have difficulties drilling plumb at the best of times and I had no faith that I could drill these two holes especially on old-growth Spotted Gum end grain. To have any chance of getting it right, I knew I had to use a good quality bit....



















































    .....so I bought this. It's not cheap (about AU$45 not including shipping from Taylor Toolworks) but it's high quality and made in Japan (also sold as Star M).






















































    To make sure I drill plumb, I made a drill guide using a 35mm forstner bit on my bench drill (I can't use the Wood Owl bit because of the screw head pilot tip). Here is the guide clamped in position using 3m pipe clamps. Even with a quality bit, it was hard going. It even drew blood when I was caught a bit unawares when I first turned it on. Even with side handle installed on the cordless drill, and set to the slowest speed, the torque was so strong that I ended up banging my knuckles on the pipe clamp. With that painful experience, I quickly learnt to brace myself more for the torque. Things were going well until about 3 inches in and I noticed that the bit was no longer pulling itself into the wood.



































































    What I discovered was the threads of screw pilot bit was getting clogged up by swarf. The good thing about auger bits is that this screw pilot bit pulls the dit into the wood. I soon learnt to stop drilling and clear the tip whenever I could no longer feel the bit pulling itself into the wood. Doing this regularly prevents the swarf from being compacted even more and it also prevents the bit from overheating.
















































    Here's the result.


    Tomorrow's job is to install some floating tenons I can draw-bore into. I was originally going to use Dominoes (and the knock down bolts) because some of my planks weren't long enough to allow for tenons on this end.



    Cheers.

  7. #66
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    Nov 2016
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    Bris
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    Another productive day today.....



































































    I made a couple of gigantic Dominoes that will be installed on the right hand side to secure the end cap. It measures 126mmL x 88mmW x 26mmD. The corresponding 71mm deep mortice into the top slabs were done with my Domino XL machine but the 55mm deep mortice into the end cap was done with my bench drill and plunge router as per the left side end cap. I also cut grooves on all 4 sides of the dominoes with a triangular file so that excess glue can squeeze out.



























































    And the grooves worked. I probably would not have been able to push the Domino in as far as it needed to without the grooves.


















































    I cleaned out the glue squeeze out and removed the blue tape before the epoxy had fully cured. I found it's a lot easier this way. I made sure the resulting tenon was square to the ends of the slab with this tiny machinist square.



















































































































    I let the epoxy cure overnight, and after removing the clamps, I just had to install the vise to see if the twin screws were fouling on anything. I can happily report that it works just as good as before but the end cap was about half a millimetre lower than the top because the fit of the tenon and mortices were a bit too loose. I decided to fix this by tweaking them.






























































    "Tweaking" involved laminating a thin piece onto the tenons and then gradually widening the corresponding mortices until the fit was just right. That fixed the problem and the end cap is now slightly proud of the bench surface and it will be easier to flush it off once everything's glued up. I can now proceed with cutting the dovetails on the outer boards and dovetailing them into the end caps.



    Cheers,
    Mike




    p.s. I've also cut the notches for the centre tool holder......


















































    I used a Dozuki to cut the sides (no, not the SCMS !) and removed the waste with a chisel and smoothed it out with a rasp.

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
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    1,791

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    Looks fantastic. Following this thread with great interest.

    That tail vice looks very useful. Nicest tail/Moxon vice ive ever come across what are the dimensions of the vice faces and distance between the threads of the vice? lie Neilson Aust has its largest to be 24". It works with larger distances between and longer chains I take it?

    Cheers
    Nathan

    Sent from my Nokia 5.3 using Tapatalk

  9. #68
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    Nov 2016
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    Bris
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    Quote Originally Posted by delbs View Post
    Looks fantastic. Following this thread with great interest.

    That tail vice looks very useful. Nicest tail/Moxon vice ive ever come across what are the dimensions of the vice faces and distance between the threads of the vice? lie Neilson Aust has its largest to be 24". It works with larger distances between and longer chains I take it?

    Cheers
    Nathan

    Sent from my Nokia 5.3 using Tapatalk


    Thanks Nathan.

    The gap between the screws is 610mm and the rear chop is 879mmL x 104mmH. This particular moxon vise obviously comes already built and isn't really modifiable. LN did use to sell the chain vise hardware, and LN Oz still have it for sale, but it's no longer listed on the US site. I think it's not currently offered because of the pandemic and LN choosing to concentrate on their core products. It may become available again once/if things resume to some semblance of normality, but I suggest you buy it from LN Oz while it's still available. It comes with 3 choice of chain length but I don't see why you can't use a longer chain if you wanted the extra capacity.



    Cheers,
    Mike

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,107

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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    ...LN did use to sell the chain vise hardware, and LN Oz still have it for sale, but it's no longer listed on the US site.....
    ?????

    Is this what you are referring to, Mike? It seems it is back on the LN USA website.
    Dovetail Chain Drive Vise Lie-Nielsen Toolworks

    Interesting price comparison with USA....

    LN Moxon Vise.jpg

    The Aus price is from this site:
    Lie-Nielsen Dovetail or Moxon Vise- 24"


    This leaves a rather generous variance of $366 to cover freight and resellers increased margin!

  11. #70
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    Nov 2016
    Location
    Bris
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    Hi Graeme,

    The one you linked to is the complete vise (i.e. already all built) and it's also the 18" version. The 24" version is US$475 so the difference isn't as great, around AU$145 after GST and customs duty. And the shipping from the US for such a heavy and bulky item is not exactly cheap, probably more than $145. IIRC, at the time I purchased the vise, getting it directly from the US wasn't any cheaper and could have actually been more expensive.

    But what I was actually referring to in my post was LN at one time were offering just the chain drive hardware. This included the hub assembly, gears, twin screws, etc but not the vise handle or the jaws and leather. The price in LN Oz for the the kit is AU$599 and the handle is an extra $79. By the time you factor in the leather/crubber lining and the wood for the jaws, the saving isn't that much. That's why I went for the completed vise instead of building my own using the hardware kit. Plus it was going to be easier to install and I wanted a smooth underside to my bench instead of a couple of deep mortises that you have to avoid when clamping things to the top.

  12. #71
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    Bris
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    I just checked, the cheapest shipping option offered by LN US to Australia is US$227. So it's much cheaper to get it from LN Oz.

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    12,006

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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Interesting price comparison with USA....

    LN Moxon Vise.jpg

    The Aus price is from this site:
    Lie-Nielsen Dovetail or Moxon Vise- 24"


    This leaves a rather generous variance of $366 to cover freight and resellers increased margin!
    Graeme,
    What you are overlooking is the time difference and hence the difference in the AUD-USD exchange rate at the time LN Australia ordered the completed 24" vise.
    "Normally" tools purchased through LN Australia are priced in a way that including shipping from the US increases the tool's price to more than the Australian retail cost (including GST).
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  14. #73
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    Apr 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Graeme,
    What you are overlooking is the time difference and hence the difference in the AUD-USD exchange rate at the time LN Australia ordered the completed 24" vise. ......
    I beg to differ, Ian. The variance is 63.5% ...... [$945/578.08]

    The US$ to AU$ exchange rate has not moved by anywhere near that much over the last few years.

  15. #74
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    Nov 2018
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    Newcastle
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    You don't pay customs on orders < $1000 total (incl shipping).

    I've bought a couple of LN bits from LNAU - at the time (weaker AU$) it came out slightly more than from LNUS - not enough to make the risk of an international purchase worthwhile. Small items though, so shipping wasn't fierce.

  16. #75
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernmc View Post
    You don't pay customs on orders < $1000 total (incl shipping).
    ......

    Not completely true. Commercial importers pay Customs and GST on all imports. My example was commercial.

    Private individuals may import duty free for many items.

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