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  1. #76
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    Returning to work has slowed progress somewhat but I've managed to fit in some workshop time this long weekend (for me).....


















































































































































    .....I've routed the rebate for the sliding dead man, applied 3 coats of Osmo PolyX and 2 coast of paste wax.......




























































































































































    ....then I dry-fitted it to make sure the deadman slid smoothly


    Meanwhile, a new toy arrived......




























































    I can see myself getting carried away and branding EVERYTHING !!!





































































































































    I applied some more Osmo and paste wax to the sliding deadman so that glue doesn't stick to it when I laminate the outer board. With that out of the way, I can cut the dovetails on the ends of the boards.....




























































    As I've admitted earlier, my hand-sawing sucks and I don't trust myself to saw plumb, so I decided to use the bandsaw. I attached two pieces of 32mm MDF cut at the appropriate angle so I could reference the fence.














































    Here is the result. The 1.25" Resaw King blade produces a very smooth finish almost rivalling the table saw. I also used the bandsaw to cut a 5mm rebate on the underside of the dovetails so that it's easier to register when marking out the pins. This left the dovetails 30mm thick. Note the chisel wall I've created to help me do the cross cut with my Dozuki. Yep, my sawing is that bad !! I've saved the 5mm thick "rebate" tails to use as clamp pads for when I finally do the glue up.
































































    Here it is all done. I'm perhaps being too ambitious by going for really thin "London" pins but this whole build is all about pushing my self.


    Time to mark the pins.....














































    My search for the perfect marking knife continues. Here I am using my Blue Spruce marking knife which has the large spear point blade installed. I'm using the large blade because I need the length to reach down into the bottom corner of the pins. My gripe is twofold. First, the blade is too thick to fit between the tails. Second, the blade is pulled out when I draw the knife back. I've tightened the collet as much as I can by hand but it still pulls out some times. I've bought Blue Spruce's hand-forged marking knife but it hasn't arrived yet. It will probably be thicker again but at least it will solve the 2nd problem. I think I will have to make my own marking knife to get what I want but I'll first have to find a single bevel spear-point blade with a similar reach but thinner without it flexing too much. If anyone know of such a blade, please let me know.


































































    Here it is with with the lines darkened with a pencil. Now comes the hand-sawing part . There's no way around it, I gotta hand cut the pins. At least plumbness isn't so much of an issue with the pins. As long as the top lines are straight and crisp, the rest will be hidden after assembly....





































































    Here is the other end after my efforts. It's not pretty but it's probably the best I can do. I think a couple are actually plumb but most aren't. I find it harder when it's an angled cut instead ones that are just straight across. Hopefully with practise I'll get a lot better.



















































































































    Here are a couple after cleaning out the waste. I'm not sure what type of maple Lie Nielsen use for their dovetail vises but whatever it is it's so much easier to work with than Purpleheart/Spotted Gum/BlackButt/Ironbark. If this rock or hard maple, then I can understand why it's commonly used for workbenches and cabinets. I wish it was readily available locally.




    To be continued......

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  3. #77
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    ......continuing on.....



































































































































































































































































    Here are all 4 corners taken after first fitment. I think I tweaked the fitment of a couple and was able to close up some of the gaps but not all. They may not be up to standards of our much more talented members but you have to remember that I'm just a noob. At any rate, they came out better than the ones on my first bench and that's all I can ever hope for. I reckon I'll have it down pat by my 8th bench.


    Next step is to dry-fit them all on the bench. Aligning the dovetails and pins on each corner was major issue because both outer boards and both end caps are all still oversized and proud of the top and all by varying degrees. I couldn't just line up the edges like you would when building drawers.




















































































    The way I got around the alignment issue is by installing all four pieces individually and using my chisel plane to transfer the top surface on to each piece. Each piece in theory should go in the same way on final assembly because of the Dominoes on the outer boards and the M&T on the end caps. In theory .


    I then transferred to the end of the end caps and onto the shoulder of the dovetails. Then it was just a matter of lining up the lines as shown on the left side of the photo above. So with a bit of trepidation, I dry-fitted all 4 pieces together......

























































































































































































































































































































































































    .....and S U C C E S S !!!!! Wooohoooo........what a relief !!!


    It's not perfect, there's a small gap that has opened up on the left side (purple) end cap but I'm hoping I'll be able to close it with a couple of 3m pipe clamps. So all four pieces are ready for glue up but I can't just yet because I'm looking for someone with a CNC router to inlay my logo on the purple end cap. I keep hitting a dead end on that front. Some claim they can do it but when I ask what router bit they plan to use, they say there smallest bit is 1/8". That's just too big to get all the fine detail especially at a size of 70mm diameter. There is one guy that seems to know what he's doing but I'm low down in his list of priorities. If someone can point me to the right guy, I would be eternally grateful. I understand that it's not an attractive proposition if calculated on an hourly rate and that is why I'm happy to pay up to $200 to get the job done. Surely there's someone out there that's capable and willing to do it at that price. Please let me know if you are such a guy or know of someone.




    Cheers and Happy Australia Day to all !!!


    Mike

  4. #78
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    This is so awesome to read, thanks for all the photos

    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post












































    My search for the perfect marking knife continues. Here I am using my Blue Spruce marking knife which has the large spear point blade installed. I'm using the large blade because I need the length to reach down into the bottom corner of the pins. My grip is twofold. First, the blade is too thick to fit between the tails. Second, the blade is pulled out when I draw the knife back. I've tightened the collet as much as I can by hand but it still pulls out some times. I've bought Blue Spruce's hand-forged marking knife but it hasn't arrived yet. It will probably be thicker again but at least it will solve the 2nd problem. I think I will have to make my own marking knife to get what I want but I'll first have to find a single bevel spear-point blade with a similar reach but thinner without it flexing too much. If anyone know of such a blade, please let me know.
    Reading this part the first tool that came to mind is actually not a woodworking knife but a leatherworking one. It might just be what you're after, have a look
    Vergez Blanchard Flat Knife Brass Scabbard | Etsy

    I know the name sounds a bit douche-bagey but Vergez Blanchard have been around for 2 centuries, for a reason, they're well known for top quality steel and tools that get passed down for generations. I've had this knife before (lost now ) and it's very nimble, cuts like a devil, easy to sharpen, and I'm pretty sure you can pull the blade out enough for your dovetails. It's meant for mm accurate cuts on leather, both straight and curved, and I have no doubt it will make a nice deep mark on timber with little effort. I was actually thinking of ordering another for myself, probably why it was the first thing that came to my mind.

  5. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    Time to mark the pins.....



































    My search for the perfect marking knife continues. Here I am using my Blue Spruce marking knife which has the large spear point blade installed. I'm using the large blade because I need the length to reach down into the bottom corner of the pins. My grip is twofold. First, the blade is too thick to fit between the tails. Second, the blade is pulled out when I draw the knife back. I've tightened the collet as much as I can by hand but it still pulls out some times. I've bought Blue Spruce's hand-forged marking knife but it hasn't arrived yet. It will probably be thicker again but at least it will solve the 2nd problem. I think I will have to make my own marking knife to get what I want but I'll first have to find a single bevel spear-point blade with a similar reach but thinner without it flexing too much. If anyone know of such a blade, please let me know.
    Well, first off narrow London style pins were possibly not a good choice for a timber frame project. As you discovered, the gap between each side of the tail combined with the thickness of the stock are both working against what you are trying to achieve here. Better would be to widen out the tails of the London style tails so that your marking knife fitted.
    But I acknowledge that is all a bit late now. And besides, you have now completed the bench so with the knowledge you have gained this time, the next bench you build can have slightly wider spacing of the saw cuts so that your Blue Spruce knife fits.

    I very much doubt that any marking knife you can buy -- including a leather working knife -- will be both stiff enough and narrow enough to work with the narrow kerf you allowed for in your framing timber.
    Perhaps next build, size the saw kerfs so that the Blue spruce knife fits ??
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  6. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Well, first off narrow London style pins were possibly not a good choice for a timber frame project. As you discovered, the gap between each side of the tail combined with the thickness of the stock are both working against what you are trying to achieve here. Better would be to widen out the tails of the London style tails so that your marking knife fitted.
    But I acknowledge that is all a bit late now. And besides, you have now completed the bench so with the knowledge you have gained this time, the next bench you build can have slightly wider spacing of the saw cuts so that your Blue Spruce knife fits.

    I very much doubt that any marking knife you can buy -- including a leather working knife -- will be both stiff enough and narrow enough to work with the narrow kerf you allowed for in your framing timber.
    Perhaps next build, size the saw kerfs so that the Blue spruce knife fits ??
    ]



    Ian,

    The decision to go with such fine pins was not an oversight. I knew from cutting and experimenting with the dovetails on my first bench that going with London pins would be more difficult both in scribing and cutting them. As I mentioned above, one of the goals of this build is to challenge myself and hopefully to improve my skills. Yes, I could have widened the wins so that my marking knife fits, but that would have changed the aesthetics, and as we all know, the reason for choosing houndstooth dovetails with London pins is all about aesthetics. I definitely don't need if for the strength of the joint, in fact I probably don't need dovetails at all such is the limited force applied to the end caps. I could have gotten away with just bolting the end caps on but where is the fun in that? Besides, I was able to get around my marking knife not fitting between the pins by poking just the tip of the blade at the end of the pins and making a mark. It was then simply a matter of extending the scribed line after the tails had been removed. Easy Peasy.....



    Cheers,
    Mike

  7. #81
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    Loving the progress Mike

  8. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyro View Post
    This is so awesome to read, thanks for all the photos


    Reading this part the first tool that came to mind is actually not a woodworking knife but a leatherworking one. It might just be what you're after, have a look
    Vergez Blanchard Flat Knife Brass Scabbard | Etsy

    I know the name sounds a bit douche-bagey but Vergez Blanchard have been around for 2 centuries, for a reason, they're well known for top quality steel and tools that get passed down for generations. I've had this knife before (lost now ) and it's very nimble, cuts like a devil, easy to sharpen, and I'm pretty sure you can pull the blade out enough for your dovetails. It's meant for mm accurate cuts on leather, both straight and curved, and I have no doubt it will make a nice deep mark on timber with little effort. I was actually thinking of ordering another for myself, probably why it was the first thing that came to my mind.


    Thanks Spyro. I'm glad you're enjoying my build thread.

    And thanks for the recommendation and link to the VB knife. It looks very interesting and one that I hadn't considered. It's hard to tell from the photos on Etsy, but is the blade flat on one side like a Kiridashi? If so, is it available in a left and right version? I'm willing to give it a try if it has a flat back. I use a double bevel knife for general marking out but for marking out dovetails, I find that I get a better result if I use a flat backed blade and referencing the side of the tails.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Loving the progress Mike

    Thanks MA.

  9. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    Thanks Spyro. I'm glad you're enjoying my build thread.

    And thanks for the recommendation and link to the VB knife. It looks very interesting and one that I hadn't considered. It's hard to tell from the photos on Etsy, but is the blade flat on one side like a Kiridashi? If so, is it available in a left and right version? I'm willing to give it a try if it has a flat back. I use a double bevel knife for general marking out but for marking out dovetails, I find that I get a better result if I use a flat backed blade and referencing the side of the tails.
    It's single bevel, typically right handed. Some places let you choose left or right.
    L'Indispensable Knife

  10. #84
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    Absolutely loving your progress reports, Mike. Going very well.

    But thought that you were a rather brave man putting your name on the dead man....

    Logo.jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter
    ... So all four pieces are ready for glue up but I can't just yet because I'm looking for someone with a CNC router to inlay my logo on the purple end cap. I keep hitting a dead end on that front. Some claim they can do it but when I ask what router bit they plan to use, they say there smallest bit is 1/8". That's just too big to get all the fine detail especially at a size of 70mm diameter....
    Presume that you are talking about this log:
    Logo 2.jpg
    With the wood grain pattern it certainly does have a lot of fine detail, even at 70mm diameter. Even at 3mm router bits are extremely fragile. Finer bits are available on order but they are super fragile and you would need a bucket load of them. And with every breakage there is a risk of damaging your timber.

    An alternative might be to use a V-groove bit which with a 2.5 axis CNC would allow you vary the thickness of the lines by cutting shallower V's for the wood grain.
    Logo 3.jpg
    A key question will be "how impactful will the logo be?" That grain might just be too complex so that you will have to cut it too shallow to be really visible.... Perhaps you could simplify it by eliminating every second or third grain pattern?

    Another option might be to have it cut with a laser cutter, also CNC controlled.

    A final option might be to have a branding iron made.

  11. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyro View Post
    It's single bevel, typically right handed. Some places let you choose left or right.
    L'Indispensable Knife

    Thanks again Spyro. It sounds like it may be what I'm looking for. I'll give it a go. Cheers.

  12. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Absolutely loving your progress reports, Mike. Going very well.

    But thought that you were a rather brave man putting your name on the dead man....

    Logo.jpg




    Presume that you are talking about this log:
    Logo 2.jpg
    With the wood grain pattern it certainly does have a lot of fine detail, even at 70mm diameter. Even at 3mm router bits are extremely fragile. Finer bits are available on order but they are super fragile and you would need a bucket load of them. And with every breakage there is a risk of damaging your timber.

    An alternative might be to use a V-groove bit which with a 2.5 axis CNC would allow you vary the thickness of the lines by cutting shallower V's for the wood grain.
    Logo 3.jpg
    A key question will be "how impactful will the logo be?" That grain might just be too complex so that you will have to cut it too shallow to be really visible.... Perhaps you could simplify it by eliminating every second or third grain pattern?

    Another option might be to have it cut with a laser cutter, also CNC controlled.

    A final option might be to have a branding iron made.




    Thanks Graeme. I take it you think I'm tempting fate by putting my name on the sliding deadman.




    Yep, I agree, a 3mm bit is not the way to go. The guy that I've been corresponding with who seems to know what he was doing had this to say:


    "The size of inlay depends heavily on the following. The denser and harder the wood the smaller, the details of the pic, the material that is inlaid. I can cut approx 0.1mm with a 15deg angle which would be less than 0.3mm at about 3mm depth so bits are not the problem."




    I confess I don't really know much about CNC routers and inlaying in general. The extent of my knowledge is from watching vids on Youtube like this one. Granted the inlay in the vid is much larger, but I thought what I was after would be possible. I'd be willing to accept skipping every second woodgrain if that would makes it easier, but I'd still want some wood grain so that it is obvious that the "M" is a block of wood.

    I have another branding iron on order but the result won't really be visible on Purpleheart. I've thought about branding a lighter bit of wood and inlaying that into the PH and that is still an option. I've also ordered some brass medallions (see below) but they're a bit small at 30mm in diameter. The 4th option I'm considering is commissioning a brass plaque. But my preference is the inlay.


    icm_fullxfull.308562544_c8nmo0057kg80s0sc0wo.jpg

  13. #87
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    I really like your clamp rack

    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I really like your clamp rack




    Yeah......I kinda got carried away there. For a sec I thought you were referring to my clamp rack below which I reckon is a very efficient use of space. It houses 16 x 800mm, 8 x 400mm, 9 x 300mm F clamps and a couple of Festool track clamps.


    20210129_133441.jpg












































    20210129_133425.jpg

  15. #89
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    A few thoughts on this *absolutely* FANTASTIC thread....

    -- With the inlay, perhaps have Mr CNC do the bulk work and then you can add fine detail in with a dremel, mounted to a little plunger with a fine bit?

    *Rotary Tool Plunge Assembly for Dremel
    1pc 3.175mm SHK Wood cutter CNC Router Bits


    -- I follow a dude on Instagram that has been using powdered brass in epoxy to spectacular effect.... usable?

    -- Perhaps it might have been easier to buy an entire tree stump and remove those bits that "aint a bench"?

    -- The weight of this beast must be awesome!

    Loving this thread

  16. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    A few thoughts on this *absolutely* FANTASTIC thread....

    -- With the inlay, perhaps have Mr CNC do the bulk work and then you can add fine detail in with a dremel, mounted to a little plunger with a fine bit?

    *Rotary Tool Plunge Assembly for Dremel
    1pc 3.175mm SHK Wood cutter CNC Router Bits


    -- I follow a dude on Instagram that has been using powdered brass in epoxy to spectacular effect.... usable?

    -- Perhaps it might have been easier to buy an entire tree stump and remove those bits that "aint a bench"?

    -- The weight of this beast must be awesome!

    Loving this thread


    I'm glad you're enjoying the thread, woodPixel, and thanks for the suggestion and links regarding the inlay, but a 3.175mm bit is too big to capture the fine detail of the logo even at 70mm in diameter. And I don't trust myself freehanding the fine detail with a Dremel. I have considered filling the engraving with coloured epoxy but this is the first I've heard of powdered brass being used. The effect is indeed spectacular and something I would definitely choose to go with if I could find someone with the necessary equipment and knowhow to do the actual routing. I've sent my logo to several people who were willing to try only to never hear from them again. I can only assume their attempts resulted in complete failure. I commissioned a brass plaque yesterday but it's coming from Russia so it may take a few weeks to get here.

    Yes, she's a heavy girl and will be even more so when the drawers and tools go in. I've certainly no racking issues in any direction.


    Cheers

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