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  1. #106
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    Thanks Mike. Great idea re. greasy thread. Are you happy with the "St Peter's Cross"? I think I have the right disciple.

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  3. #107
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    Nov 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Ash View Post
    Thanks Mike. Great idea re. greasy thread. Are you happy with the "St Peter's Cross"? I think I have the right disciple.

    Yes, I'm very happy with it. I've got about 210mm capacity between the jaws and I cannot detect any visible sagging at the maximum extension. I considered the various alternative methods from the traditional peg board mortised into the leg, steel rod and linear bearings, bicycle chain system, etc, and this seemed to me to be the simplest to install and operate. Please bear in mind that I haven't actually installed or even used those other methods so I may be way off base here. They could actually be better but I'll never know. Hovarter make their own version which could work out to be cheaper but I went with Benchcrafted because it's more popular and I've yet to hear anything bad about it. I was 100% sure that the Benchcrafted was just going to work as advertised whereas the Hovarter mechanism was a bit more of an unknown quantity to me.

  4. #108
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    Finally !!!! The brass plate arrived just in time for the long weekend. The seller had to remake it and send it again. The first package is still bouncing around Europe somewhere.......



    20210419_142846.jpg







































    I also ordered a couple of etchings for another project....


    Now I have to decide how I'm gonna cut the mortice for the plaque. I thought about using my router and a template........


    20210421_220307.jpg








































    ....but then I thought I'd try my circle cutting bit on my little bench drill. I'm trying it on a scrap piece of MDF just to get the diameter right.



    20210421_222207.jpg



































    Time for a test fit........



    20210423_154014.jpg















































    ......then I cross my fingers and try it on the real thing.



    20210423_162748.jpg



































    Here's the result.


    20210423_182440.jpg













































    I then drill the holes and counter bore for the bench "knock down" bolts. I'm almost ready to finally glue the endcaps on......




    20210424_101530.jpg










































    ....but first I have to make a couple of 1/2" purpleheart dowels. For some reason Bunnings don't seem to have them in stock. I start out with 16mm square stock. I then plane the corners with my tiny Bridge City Toolworks block plane until I have a irregular octagon.




    20210424_102421.jpg
















































    I then drive it through my DFM dowel plate progressing through the sizes until I get it down to 1/2".



    20210424_103828.jpg




































    Here's the finished dowel after sanding with 40 grit. This is the first time I've made dowels and I really didn't know what to expect. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. One down, one more to go.



    20210424_145623.jpg









































    Now I can finally glue the endcaps !!! I use 3/8" tassie oak dowels on the purpleheart endcap for a bit of contrast......




    20210424_110447.jpg


































































    ....and my handmade 1/2" purpleheart dowel on the maple endcap.

  5. #109
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    I let the endcaps dry overnight......



    20210425_121407.jpg




































    ....and then I glue the rear outer board. I intentionally dimensioned the outer boards so that the dovetails are recessed a smidge, i.e. the pins should be flush. The reason for this is so that I just have to flush the pins instead of planing the whole outer board. But because the pins are proud, I need to stick some clamping pads on the dovetails so that the clamps can apply pressure on the tails instead of the pins.



    20210425_141346.jpg









































    This is what I meant. The pads are stuck with double sided sticky.


    I don't have enough long clamps so I do one outer board at a time. Once the rear board is dry......



    20210425_171708.jpg



































    ....I then glue the front outer board.



    20210425_171803.jpg





































    There was one casualty . There was almost a second casualty - ME !!!! The bloody thing snapped as I was tightening the clamp and the bar sprung back narrowly missing my head.


    Below are the obligatory dovetail shots......


    20210425_132523.jpg














































    20210425_132459.jpg












































    Above are the two rear corners. They obviously haven't yet been cleaned up. I'm hoping with a bit of "bishoping" and sanding, I can get rid of the gaps. They're definitely not up to the standards as some of our more talented and experienced members, but they're the best I've been able to produce thus far in my short woodworking journey. And as per Murphy's law, these two rear ones (i.e. the less visible ones) are the best out of the four.



    20210425_171246.jpg













































    20210425_171232.jpg









































    And here are the front two corners. Both have about the same gap at the rear wall. I had some thin slivers of purpleheart so I've wedged some thin strips while the glue was not yet dry. I may do the same on the maple end or I may try some other fix. I don't know if the gaps are too big for "bishoping". They're less than 0.5mm so I may give that a try tomorrow.


    Until then....



    Cheers,
    Mike.

  6. #110
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    Hi Mike. Loving the progress. So happy to see you had posted this morning - always look forward to pictures and text.

  7. #111
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    20210424_101530.jpg










































    ....but first I have to make a couple of 1/2" purpleheart dowels.
    I believe that that counts as a drive bye
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #112
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    ...

    20210424_101530.jpg










































    ....but first I have to make a couple of 1/2" purpleheart dowels. For some reason Bunnings don't seem to have them in stock. I start out with 16mm square stock. I then plane the corners with my tiny Bridge City Toolworks block plane until I have a irregular octagon.

    20210424_102421.jpg
















































    I then drive it through my DFM dowel plate progressing through the sizes until I get it down to 1/2".

    ....

    Hi Mike; I have a slightly different technique to using my dowel plate and which may be a little easier and quicker. I regularly use it on pines, Tas oak, blackwood, etc and occasionally on Tasmanian blue gum which is a little harder than purple heart, according to Bootles. Must admit, I have never made purple heart dowells.

    My dowell plate is metric, so I will have to wing it with imperialist measures. You seem to have a DFM Dowell Plate with dowell holes from 1/8" through to 5/8" increasing in 1/32" increments.

    My technique for cutting 1/2" dowells is:
    • Rip timber to a whisker over 1/2" square, say 200-300mm long,
    • Sharpen one end (I actually use a pencil sharpener on smaller dowells),
    • Poke proto-dowell down dowell hole that it will just fit in (easy),
    • Push through next smaller dowell hole (getting harder),
    • Hammer through next hole,
    • Continue until you reach 1/2" target diameter.


    I never bother sanding the dowells as they will disappear into a hole.

    In practice, I rarely have to run them through more than 3 or 4 holes. For example, the diagonal distance through a 1/4" square rod is 0.3536" or 11.3/32". I'd just run it sequentially through hole sizes 11/32, 5/16, 9/32, 1/4 inches.

    And that is why I always use metric!

  9. #113
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    Bris
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I believe that that counts as a drive bye


    Ian, I don't geddit ? Is it because the BCT block plane resembles a car?

  10. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Hi Mike; I have a slightly different technique to using my dowel plate and which may be a little easier and quicker. I regularly use it on pines, Tas oak, blackwood, etc and occasionally on Tasmanian blue gum which is a little harder than purple heart, according to Bootles. Must admit, I have never made purple heart dowells.

    My dowell plate is metric, so I will have to wing it with imperialist measures. You seem to have a DFM Dowell Plate with dowell holes from 1/8" through to 5/8" increasing in 1/32" increments.

    My technique for cutting 1/2" dowells is:
    • Rip timber to a whisker over 1/2" square, say 200-300mm long,
    • Sharpen one end (I actually use a pencil sharpener on smaller dowells),
    • Poke proto-dowell down dowell hole that it will just fit in (easy),
    • Push through next smaller dowell hole (getting harder),
    • Hammer through next hole,
    • Continue until you reach 1/2" target diameter.


    I never bother sanding the dowells as they will disappear into a hole.

    In practice, I rarely have to run them through more than 3 or 4 holes. For example, the diagonal distance through a 1/4" square rod is 0.3536" or 11.3/32". I'd just run it sequentially through hole sizes 11/32, 5/16, 9/32, 1/4 inches.

    And that is why I always use metric!

    Thanks Graeme. Next time I'll try your method. The only reason I started with 16mm thick stock is because that was already the thickness of my scrap piece. And the reason I sanded the finished dowel was because the hole I drilled wasn't a true 1/2" (12.7mm). I only have a metric set of bits so I used a 12.5mm bit. I may have been able to drive it through without sanding but I didn't want to take the risk and break something.


    Cheers,
    Mike

  11. #115
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    Apr 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    Thanks Graeme. Next time I'll try your method. The only reason I started with 16mm thick stock is because that was already the thickness of my scrap piece. And the reason I sanded the finished dowel was because the hole I drilled wasn't a true 1/2" (12.7mm). I only have a metric set of bits so I used a 12.5mm bit. I may have been able to drive it through without sanding but I didn't want to take the risk and break something.


    Cheers,
    Mike
    Fine, Mike, imperialist stuff really is a PIA.

    I just made my own dowell plate by drilling metric holes in a 3mm mild steel plate from 3mm up through all bits up to 13mm. Rarely use above 8mm.

    Using oversize stock does make the job harder, especially in a timber with Janka=11.2 kN.

  12. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Fine, Mike, imperialist stuff really is a PIA.

    I just made my own dowell plate by drilling metric holes in a 3mm mild steel plate from 3mm up through all bits up to 13mm. Rarely use above 8mm.

    Using oversize stock does make the job harder, especially in a timber with Janka=11.2 kN.

    I totally agree, Graeme, imperial measurements are a PIA. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any metric dowel plates at the time. LN are out of stock and they don't seem to be making any more any time soon.

  13. #117
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    Ok, now it's time to hopefully close up the gaps in the dovetails with a bit of bishoping......


    20210426_095217.jpg







































    20210426_155745.jpg

































































    Above is my bishoping kit.



    20210425_230526.jpg










































    I made the bishoping drift out of the left over stainless steel depth rod from my Bosch bench drill. The other half I used as my material rest on my leg vise. I rounded over one end with my angle grinder and then sanded it with 180 grit.



    20210426_100722.jpg












































    I sprayed the joint with a bit of water before lathering it with some PVA glue. I then use my drift to lightly tap the end grain towards the gap. This is another advantage of having the pins proud of the dovetail. I wipe off the excess glue and let it dry for a few hours before cleaning up the joint.



    20210426_125042.jpg













































    To get rid of the dimples left from the bishoping, I again spray the joint with water and then cover with a wet shop rag. I then use my iron to drive steam into the joint.



    20210426_125028.jpg













































    Here is the joint after it has had the steam treatment. I may repeat this process several times in between hand-sanding with a hard block depending on how deep the dimples are.


    Below are the end results......



    20210426_155146.jpg












































    Here's the front right corner. This I believe had the biggest gaps. I haven't filled any of the gaps with slivers of wood or with glue/sawdust mixture. All I've tried is my bishoping technique. As you can see, the gaps aren't fully closed, but it is definitely a lot better. The white spots are "bruises" left over from the bishoping dimples. They're completely flush and I could probably get rid of them with a bit more sanding but I think I'll leave it as it is. I consider it a bit of wabi-sabi


    20210426_152712.jpg










































    This is the front left corner. It has slivers inserted on the rear pin walls as well as a it of bishoping. If I had to do it again, I think I wouldn't have bothered with the slivers.



    20210426_144452.jpg












































    Here's the rear left corner. I think I just "bishoped" this one and used a but of sawdust/glue mixture.


    20210426_155158.jpg









































    And finally, the rear right corner. I only bishoped this corner, no other methods were used to close the gaps.



    20210426_153054.jpg




































    20210426_153100.jpg







































    I've also installed the end vise......



    20210426_152748.jpg



































    ....and here's the number plate on the other end. I've still got to clean up the edges but I gotta figure out how to do that without scratching up the brass plate, but that's for next time .



    Cheers,
    Mike

  14. #118
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
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    For those with a DFM dowelplate, how do you find them? Good to use?

    I'd imagine using one on a bench with a dog hole for the dowel to descend into, plus the benches surface for support must make them fun to use?

    (Apologies for the hijacking.)

    I do love your bench. You've earned over 400 envy-points!

  15. #119
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    Thanks, WP, and no apologies necessary. I'm happy for anyone to discuss different tools/techniques I've used in this build. I consider that to be right on topic.

    I reckon the DFM plate is great, but then again I haven't used the competition. The reasons I chose the DFM plate over the LN version are:

    - thicker A2 plate (3/8" vs 1/4")
    - cheaper ($86 on Amazon w/free shipping with Prime vs $119 + shipping)
    - more holes with far less drastic steps. The LN goes from 5/8" down to 1/2" with no steps in between
    - and the most important reason..........it's available to purchase immediately !!

  16. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by KahoyKutter View Post
    Ian, I don't geddit ? Is it because the BCT block plane resembles a car?
    in this context, a "drive bye" or "drive by" is a tool purposely included in a photo because you can.
    (BTW, the shavings exiting the mouth add to the look)





    if the BCT mini block plane was actually sitting on the dowel blank I don't believe it would count as a drive-by.






    BTW
    I don't recall, but are you by any chance left handed?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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