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Thread: WIP - My second workbench
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7th April 2013, 06:43 PM #31Skwair2rownd
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It will certainly be a solid bench Fuzzie! So far so good!!
Have the recent posts about vises and lathes had any influence on you, like mind changes??
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7th April 2013 06:43 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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7th April 2013, 08:20 PM #32
To be perfectly honest Arthur I haven't checked out the latest all vices thread. I'm committed to this design and build and having enough issues without changing horses mid stream. If it doesn't eventually come together, watch out for a new thread "WIP - My 3rd workbench"
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7th April 2013, 11:05 PM #33
Jeez + Ouch
You'll be fit with all the weight training
Cheers,
Paul
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9th April 2013, 06:23 PM #34
Ran a slot for an tongue in the bench end and got everything aligned. The face board was given a tenon to mate into the endcap as I couldn't see any mechanical value in using a dovetail here. The tenon however will keep the face board from springing out. The endcap will be attached using bolts and barrel nuts.
endcap2.jpgendcap3.jpg
The next step will be to find a suitable lump of wood to use as a sliding deadman then run a groove in the face board to accept it. The plan is coming together!
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10th April 2013, 03:38 PM #35
Hi Fuzzie,
That is a big solid beastie. You will be able to really pound away at work on a top like that. Any Idea of what the top weighs? As for the issues you are having, well it is not a bench build without some. I also ended up a few mm out with the top and legs but I had already glued up the leg assemblies. My solution was easy on a split top as I just made the center gap wider but the center board was no longer any use. I usually expect a few problems with any project I do anyhow. I would be good at building things if I made more than one of them. Anyhow keep at it and it will feel great when you finish.
Regards
John
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10th April 2013, 06:27 PM #36
My guesstimate for the top is 100kg.... plus vices...
There I was thinking attaching the endcap would be a breeze. Learnt a thing or two about boring long holes for 3/8" bolts and lining up matching holes for barrel nuts today. Also had some fun aligning the capture collar for the dog block bench screw...
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14th April 2013, 04:41 PM #37
Oops moment
The vices are mounted and the face board is glued on and planed flush with the rest of the underside. The face vise is mounted to the dog block so that the rear jaw will be flush with the bench edge. I considered continuing the face board across the bench as the rear vice jaw, but decided to cut it short of the vice and have the rear jaw as a separate piece that will not be glued to the bench top in case the need ever arises to replace the vice jaw linings.
face.jpg
I moved back to the legs and trimmed the stretcher shoulders to reduce the leg frame width to match the top width as discussed above. Before gluing up the legs I counter bored the top rail for a lag screw and moved on to counter bore for the knock down bolt going into the long stretchers. I then realized I have a problem. The stretcher bolts are 1/2" by 6" with brass barrel nuts from the Veritas kit. Given the width of the leg I measured up to counter bore holes for the bolt heads when I realized to get the necessary depth I would be boring a 1 1/4" hole smack through the lower short stretcher tenon. I don't think this is sensible.
oops.jpg
Trying to think through alternatives. At this stage I haven't cut the long stretcher tenons, so I suppose I could just increase the tenon length and make a full depth permanent glued joint here rather than having the knockdown option. Alternatively I can get a longer 1/2" bolt and have a shallower countersink that does not penetrate the short stretcher tenon. Down to bunnies to look for 1/2" bolts I think.
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14th April 2013, 08:30 PM #38
Vices, face board, that is really going to test out the boat winch when you turn it over.
Awesome work so far Fuzzie.
Cheers, Ian"The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"
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14th April 2013, 10:42 PM #39
It's unmarked but I think it's a 1.5+ ton boat winch so it should be able to handle the bench top ok. I used it to lift the top from the floor back onto the supports OK this morning. The main problem is that it's 12V and I'm only running it off a 4amp battery charger. I get the feeling it would like more juice than the 4amps. Weight distribution was also a bit of an extra challenge with the vice onboard.
As you say Ian, the fun part will be managing to flip the top. I found when I first assembled the top the trick was to just lift it onto an edge and then encourage it to tilt the other way when letting it down again.
Cheers, Franklin
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15th April 2013, 03:36 PM #40
Sorry if I have anything complete arts-about ... where did you want the bolt head to sit originally?
You could arrange the head to sit about the middle-ish if the leg ... drill a hole through for the shaft ... slightly wider for the head ... that gets the bolt into the leg. A slot in the leg to access the bolt head with an open-ended spanner (thin slot) or a round-ratcheting one (bit wider) ... and the short-stretcher tenon then goes in as planned and a plug for the outer drill hole. Just an idea.
Paul
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15th April 2013, 07:01 PM #41
Veritas bench bolts are 6" long. By the look of their installation sketch they are intended for use across 3 or maybe 4" deep legs.
My bench legs are approx 5" wide with 2" thick rails all in the same plane and aligned with the outside faces of the legs. The joints have already been cut so no option to rearrange the layout. To mount it as per the pic I would need to countersink the head 2" deep. The countersink would need to be 1 1/4" diameter to fit a socket for the 1/2" bolt head. The 2" deep countersink would be deep enough to remove a lot of the short rail's tenon. Even a 1" deep countersink would sink halfway through the tenon and I think that is cutting too much meat out of the joint.
I decided there really is no need to countersink the bolt heads and weaken the joints, but the 6" bolt is just too short to use across the 5" leg. 7" looks like it would be long enough. The Veritas bolt is 1/2" UNC. Bunnings only had 7" or 8" bolts in gal M10 or M12 and M12 somehow looks a lot slimmer than the 1/2". Luckily the local bolt shop had 7" UNC hi tensile bolts for only $2 more than the bunnies 7" Gal bolts and I can still use the Veritas barrel nuts.
The leg frames have now been glued up. I'll post a pic of the finished joint later.
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15th April 2013, 08:22 PM #42
Can't you simply fill the mortices and move the rail up 2" and dig out new mortices?
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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16th April 2013, 06:02 PM #43
Are we there yet?
Patience Grasshopper, just a few more steps...
legFrame.jpg
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18th April 2013, 05:07 PM #44
The home straight
A quick lift and flip to set the top on the leg frame
The rollover resulted in a slight amount of bruising on the arises but nothing that won't come out during the final flatenning. I also noticed the dog hole behind the vice is blocked by the vice mechanism.
liftAndFlip.jpg
Made up the deadman and added some vice cheeks.
deadman.jpg
Things left to do:
- Holes in the top for the Record hold downs
- Handle for the end vice
- Flatten the top
- Add a shelf
- Oil it
- Decide what to do with the stuff in the drawers under the old bench.....
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18th April 2013, 07:21 PM #45
Sounds painful !
I also noticed the dog hole behind the vice is blocked by the vice mechanism.
It's looking solid ! ... happy with it so far?
You know you have to report it into the Workbench Summary thread or Paul will ambush you with bad smileys ...
Cheers,
Paul
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