Results 76 to 90 of 134
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25th December 2013, 09:59 PM #76Novice
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- Dec 2013
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- Adelaide
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- 14
Fantastic builds in here, every page give me a new idea above by skill level. I'm aiming for similar build to Enelef, Laminated 90x45mm top and add Dog holes, vise and drawer's at a later date.
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26th December 2013, 08:47 AM #77well aged but not old
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 925
Construction Pine Work bench
POST TITLE:
Own design
PRIMARY FUNCTION:
Hand tools (mainly)
DIMENSIONS in mm:
(length x depth x height) 1900x695x885
The height is problematic. The ideal height for sawing is too high for the ideal height for planing. This is a compromise which seems to work.
MATERIALS (timber species etc):
MGP 12 construction pine. This is the strongest structural pine I could get. The bench (legs and top) are made of laminated 90x45 structural pine. All timber was planed and jointed back to something slightly less than that before use.
VISES INCLUDED:
The front and tail vices are 230 mm quick release.
LINK TO YOUR BUILD THREAD (if applicable):
https://www.woodworkforums.com/privat...pm&pmid=504026
BRIEF DESCRIPTION:
The front vise was dismantled and built into the bench so that the rear jaw of the vice is the front apron of the bench. The front of the bench is co-planar to allow clamping and support anywhere along the front. The top is 90 mm thick with the growth rings of the timber oriented )))))) to minimize the prospect of the top warping out of level. There is a 12 mm gap down the middle of the bench to allow for expansion. The gap also lets me me drop a bit of timber into the gap to act as a [laning stop along the full length of the bench. The frame is held together by draw bored mortice and tenon joints (also glued with Titebond 3). The frame is braced with 19 mm structafloor. I have no idea what it weighs but 3 men can just get it off the ground.
THINGS YOU PARTICULARLY LIKE :
The coplaner front lets me support long and large panels.
The 90 mm top provides a really solid base for planing and chiselling
The weight and construction means no movement or racking under load.
The light on a track at the back gives me the ability to get light to wherever I am working
THINGS THAT YOU WOULD CHANGE (in retrospect):
I would make the overhang on the right bigger to allow easier mounting of a tail vise. I added the tail vise as an afterthough and did not allow enough space for the vise screws.
THINGS THAT YOU WOULD INCORPORATE NEXT TIME :
Not much I can think of. But If I could afford it maybe I would use beech for the top. Maybe I might put a slide into the front, with holes in it to support longer lenghts rather than put holes in the legs. I believe this is called a sliding deadman.
WHAT or WHO INSPIRED SOME OF THE INCLUSIONS (provide links):
Paul Sellars (general construction and especially the idea that pine might be okay): Building a Workbench - with Paul Sellers - YouTube
The Wood Whisperer (for draw boring): How to Drawbore a Mortise and Tenon Joint and Make Custom Dowels | The Wood Whisperer
The idea of putting the work light on a dovetail slide was not mine but I cannot find the source
The split down the middle for expansion and planing stop + general construction ideas:Logan Cabinet Shoppe Custom Furniture & Traditional Woodworking Swedesboro Logan Township NJMy age is still less than my number of posts
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26th December 2013, 06:20 PM #78
Hi Chook - That is a real nice bench.
And those legs. They look like they could support a scrum for the all blacks.Can you imagine what I would do if I could do all I can? -- Sun Tzu
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26th December 2013, 08:36 PM #79well aged but not old
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 925
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22nd January 2014, 08:52 PM #80
Reworked Chinese Bench - the T-Track experiment
I suppose that as I was the original perp of this thread, then I should make an entry .
It's not a real entry, but a customisation of a Chinese bench that I bought from Carbatec 3 or so years ago. The supplied top was only 35mm thick, and the whole thing was very lightweight.
I'm waiting for some timber to dry so I can build a proper bench, but I can't wait any longer to get something more useful than what I had. So, I purchased some recycled 4x2 hardwood (classic "North Coast Hardwood") which was only $3 per metre, and set about the task.
I expect to be using this bench for up to 12 months (pending the other timber drying time), and so this gives me the opportunity to experiment with an idea that I have had for a while, and that is to use T-Track instead of Dog 'oles, to see how well it goes.Even with a top that is 50kg heavier than previous, it stills racks, wobbles, vibrates and makes a tremendous racket when hit with a mallet, but it's a step up from what it was.
Suede to be added to the vise faces yet.
PRIMARY FUNCTION:
Mainly for Hand Tools & some Power Tools (sanding)
DIMENSIONS in mm:
(length x depth x height) 1800 x 600 x 880
The overhangs are about 80mm thick, and the main part over the chassis is 42mm.
MATERIALS (timber species etc):
"North Coast Hardwood" which appears to be Tallowood, Red Box (?), summink else, and summink else red on the ends, with a bit of Blackwood bling.
FINISH:
Hard Burnished, Pale Boiled Linseed Oil (Diggers brand)
VISES INCLUDED:
Groz D9 and a 4" travel HNT Gordon Tail Vise
BRIEF DESCRIPTION:
Replacement top to give it some beef and added functionality. The original top weighs perhaps 15kgs, and the new one is around 65kgs, plus 16 kg for the Groz
THINGS YOU PARTICULARLY LIKE :
A bit early to fully assess, but so far the T-Track is working ok.
Additional weight, but I can still move it around
Additional length (up from 1350 to 1800), extra width (500 to 600)
Wider face jaws fitted to the Groz
5mm roundover edges to stop the vac hose grabbing
THINGS THAT YOU WOULD CHANGE (in retrospect):
Not to have purchased the Chinese POS in the first place
Less cosmetic mistakes
Better plan for the Groz Vise jaws (instead of truncating the last beam, I'd make it go full length and rebate out where the inner face of the Vise is)
Place the beam of Red Box in the Tail Vise line instead of the rather splintery piece that is there. Didn't think that one through at all.
THINGS THAT YOU WOULD INCORPORATE NEXT TIME :
A new fully built bench
THE T-TRACK SYSTEM:
The idea is to try and get away without drilling Dog 'oles. It's not that I don't particularly like them, but blind holes are dust catchers, and through-holes are screw etc droppers.
The recessed knob is a "Ball & Scone Saver"
A small piece of wood for demo purposes. Using a Woodpeckers T-Track Block instead of a Dog. I'll no doubt make a couple from wood that are a little higher for thicker boards. So far the track block has held, even for planing across the job (perpendicular to the Vise line. If I screw the vise knob harder it can move the track block very slightly, but this doesn't stop it from holding the job firmly.
Exit out of the vertical face T-Track on the Groz Vise side:
There is a length of track on the left and right hand vertical faces of the bench (see pic 1 at the start of this post). On the left (or front) face I'm going to fool around with using some Bessey Toggle clamps for job-holding. I foresee that I may have to install second track below that one so that the toggle clamps can sit in two tracks, but I thought I'd wait and see (I have another length of McJing's track spare).
The track on the right vertical side of the bench (Groz side) may be used for clamping too, but the first purpose that comes to mind is for some tool trays of varying forms. The far end of the bench is more or less up against a wall, and so I need that exit point near the vise. I'll probably also make a mount for a work light.
There is a very strong chance that on the top of the bench I'll mount a corresponding track on the right hand side, again for using variable height toggle clamps to hold jobs down, rather than holdowns. That is what the spare piece of track is actually for.
Derek Cohen mentioned to me something that I had not thought of - how do I re-flatten the top with the tracks in place? No worries - they're not glued in, but screwed every 80mm. I hadn't intended to glue them anyway, but just as well - thanks for highlighting that Derek!
Anyway, as the post title says, it's all a bit of an experiment prior to the main build. I expect that I'll find the track pretty damn useful - whether or not I persist with it for the Tail Vise instead of Dogs remains to be seen.
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22nd January 2014, 08:57 PM #81Skwair2rownd
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Dundowran Beach
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- 76
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- 19,922
At least it's pretty to look at!!!
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22nd January 2014, 09:00 PM #82
Cheers Art - but only from the head up
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22nd January 2014, 09:23 PM #83
Brett
Extremely well improvised. I think a pretty looking bench encourages the desire to work at it. I'm sure it will work very well until the tallowwood is ready.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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22nd January 2014, 09:30 PM #84
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22nd January 2014, 09:59 PM #85
The t track idea I would very much be interested to see our that pans out.
I think from what you have said done could be a great idea.
So please keep us informed as you you use it more.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
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23rd January 2014, 12:12 AM #86
Good looking bench Brett, I agree that the bench dog holes are a repository for things to end up in or down and lost, the T track is good thinking, I agree that a second lower track would be good for positioning a dog so you then can sit a long board onto said dog then clamp via the top track, if you look at my bench front apron there is a series of holes lower down for the same reason.
I (one day) was thinking of making a bench with a grid of road sign channel recessed in a similliar fashion to how you have inset your T track, but that's a one day , you most likely have seen this but here is a pic of some flip stops that I make myself to suit the channel I use two cap screws that thread into a plate that slides in its own channel, you can see half of one at the extreme left of the pic, both pieces are 50mm long so that amounts to a lot of holding, maybe make up a two bolting track block for a heap more clamp force.
3 position flip stop.jpg
Pete
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23rd January 2014, 09:27 AM #87
Cheers Pete. I'll doing some fooling around with clamping options after the weekend to see what combos can work.
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23rd January 2014, 10:25 AM #88
Rather impressive for a 'temporary' bench, Brett!
However, knowing how long 'temporary' fixes tend to wait for the 'real thing' in my shed, it was probably a very wise & considered move to put in the extra effort. Even when you get the round tuit for the 'proper' bench, this one could be very handy to keep in reserve. I have a smaller 'portable' bench which gets hauled out of the far corner of the shed & reassembled, on a fairly regular basis, when I need more bench space.
I'll be interested in how the t-track stands up over time, but it's a neat idea, and certainly easier to fit than making a series of square holes -particularly as a retrofit. I'd worry about applying too much force on the t-track, but the knob on the HNT screw probably can't generate the forces I can get leaning on the handle of my tail vise. For the majority of operations, you don't need huge clamping forces, of course, but there are times when I want to hold something very firmly, to the pint that even 25mm square hardwood dogs will develop a distinct curve....
Cheers,IW
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23rd January 2014, 10:47 AM #89
Thanks Ian.
Spot on - that's the secret to it. The HNT TV is a surprising little bit of kit. Simple engineering, simple to fit, and works surprisingly well. You actually only have to give it a flick turn to hold smaller pieces in place.
It doesn't hold up too well to the vibrations of ROS sanding though. It very quickly vibrates itself loose. Just typing that sentence prompted me to think about it - the vibes goes from the job straight to the dog, and then straight to the vise thread. Maybe a little piece of non-slip mat between the job and the dog might help. Or a rubber dog . Previously I have put mat under the job to try and mitigate this but it still happened. Bit of a PITA because it's a great way to hold the piece for sanding, because you don't have to move a clamp to do the whole surface.
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23rd January 2014, 11:19 AM #90
With the new thicky and a bloody great big tallow wood bench I'm afraid Brett wont have room to swing one of his many cats let alone keep a bench in reserve.
Nice work Mr Furniture. I presume Paul came around and claimed all the dust from the build. Assuming there was some of course or did you make it from your famous dustless timber.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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