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  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by enelef View Post
    Hiya slidingdovetail
    The holes are drilled for the purpose.
    For me, they will be through the top so i can use a holdfast/s.

    To make your own bench dogs, a piece of 19mm 3/4" dowel with a square of ply screwed and glued does the job.
    I have some for planing - the top piece is 10mm, and some with larger pieces.

    You can also set them up with two pieces of dowel to sit in two holes at the same time with a connecting piece of wood between them. Google bench dog and switch to images for plenty of examples.


    cheers

    norm
    Thanks Norm,

    I see now, I can drill the holes all the way through then have a wooden dowel dog with a piece of ply planted on the top to sit flat on the bench? Ply sounds like a great idea too as it comes in different thicknesses to suit different size pieces worked on. And super easy to make too!

    Cheers,
    Priscilla

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  3. #62
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    Jun 2013
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    You are also correct that round dogs present a problem with disappearing into the bench, unless there is some means of preventing that from happening. The traditional square dogs (which I favour) are made with a projecting front face, which fits into a stepped hole. They are usually made so they can be pushed down flush with the bench top, but no further (you need to be able to reach under the bench & poke them up a bit when needed, of course),
    Oh I see now, I didn't think about plants on top of the dogs that would sit flat on the bench top

    Am wandering tho, with square dogs, how do you find them holding irregular shapes of timber, or pieces set at an angle from the bench?

    Cheers,
    Priscilla

  4. #63
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by enelef View Post
    I am also trying to find/locate/build some holdfasts as well - but that is proving challenging? Overly challenging for something that is in effect a piece of 3/8" mild steel that has been bent into a soft hook with a flattened end.


    Cheers
    Enelef

    You might like to look at the Gramercy holdfasts from Tools for Working Wood. Google and go to images, as you suggested to SlidingDovetail for her bench dogs.

    I paid about $80 for mine, which is a lot for two bits of 3/4" round bar and half of that was freight. They are however aesthetically pleasant and tactile to boot (for a lump of steel that is).

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  5. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by slidingdovetail View Post
    Am wandering tho, with square dogs, how do you find them holding irregular shapes of timber, or pieces set at an angle from the bench?
    Rarely a problem, SD. There are pros & cons for round & square, & I have both. While round dogs can twist to match circular or irregular work, sometimes it's better if the dog can't rotate. I have square dogs for the tail-vise & the matching row along the bench front, and round ones elsewhere, partly because they were added after the bench was completed. I prefer wooden dogs over metal, because they are easy to make from scrap, & much kinder to cutting edges if they inadvertanly meet, as occasionally happens. Much depends on what sort of work you do most. I have a couple of dogs with a notch cut in the face, for holding pointy things, & occasionally cobble up special-purpose dogs, but it's not often I need to do that..

    Cheers,
    IW

  6. #65
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post

    There are several ways to make a dog stay at the height you want it to. The simplest & best way I know is to use a small ball-catch let into the dog. It's quite easy to fit a ball-catch to a square dog, but it would be a bit trickier to do with a round one..........

    Cheers,
    I think it was a woodwould suggestion that for round dogs just drill a hole through the dowel and push a bit of surgical rubber/o-ring whatever through that projects just enough to give sufficient friction. Pushing up a dog from below the bench is no different for round or square?

  7. #66
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    Feb 2007
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    blue mountains
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    enelef,
    I just got 2 holdfasts at mcjings for $16 each. Thay will not be as flash as as the Gramercy item as you can still see the casting marks. They work fine however and I reckon they are value for money.
    Regards
    John

    ps Good to see others using pine. I could have had a bluegum top but I would still be flattening it

  8. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzzie View Post
    I think it was a woodwould suggestion that for round dogs just drill a hole through the dowel and push a bit of surgical rubber/o-ring whatever through that projects just enough to give sufficient friction. Pushing up a dog from below the bench is no different for round or square?
    I think it was WW, Fuzzie, I vaguely remember seeing that tip, too.

    As I said, there are quite a few methods that work, but my experience has been mostly with square dogs. Another method I've tried, is cutting a 'leaf-spring' into the front of the dogs -shown here, but I'm sure you could use the O-ring trick with these, too.

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #68
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    Nov 2012
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    Thornbury
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    That was a nice piece on the tail vice Ian.
    (I wish my *ahem* failures lasted 25 years)

    Just goes to show you don't know what you don't know.
    At least until it becomes flaming obvious -
    Can you imagine what I would do if I could do all I can? -- Sun Tzu

  10. #69
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    Nov 2013
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    Sydney
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    This is a mobile workbench I built from 3 layers of 17mm ply laminated together with a masonite top. Frame is made from 90x45 pine with 4x100kg rated locking castors I bought from ebay and Irwin vise from Bunnings. Whole construction held together by copious amounts of pva glue and 75mm wood screws. Dimensions are 75cm deep, 155cm long and 87cm high. Legs ended up being 13.5x9 and all weight supported by wood not hardware (until castors).
    The purpose of the bench is to provide a good work surface for using power tools while doing renovations. Mobile to keep dust outside. The absolute best thing about it is having the legs level with the front and back edges of the benchtop. Quickly realized how useful this is. Unfortunately couldn't source the dawn vise I wanted but the Irwin is working fine. In the future want to add an end vise. Bench inspired by reading these forums !
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by oziblue View Post
    Bench inspired by reading these forums !
    Oziblue

    Good versatile bench. I like it. Good also to know the intention of the thread is having productive results. I'm sure FenceFurniture, who started the thread will be pleased.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  12. #71
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    Nov 2008
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    Thank you for all of this, oziblue. Very helpful.
    I have had a couple of guesses to myself but would you tell us, please, why you are so pleased the castors are at each corner?

  13. #72
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    Nov 2013
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    Do you mean why I like the legs co-planar with the front and back edges of the benchtop ? It's for providing a vertical surface to clamp to - not just the horizontal surface of the benchtop. There's overhang at both ends and of course the vice is flush with the bench edge.

  14. #73
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    Apr 2013
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    Brisbane
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    Default Utilitarian work bench

    PRIMARY FUNCTION: currently being used to hold machinery.

    DIMENSIONS in mm: 1200 wide, 900 deep, 900 high

    MATERIALS (timber species etc): made from 70x35 non structural pine shorts with a 10mm ply top double laminated thickness on the legs

    VICES INCLUDED: None as yet, however there are plans to add a face vice in the near future.

    BRIEF DESCRIPTION: A simple workbench made of cheap timber. Built to serve a purpose. Currently used to hold my drill press and mini bandsaw, bottom shelf holds a few power tools I don't use as often. I'm planning on building a second bench for the other side of the shed. That way I can move the power tools over and turn my bench into a proper work surface. I'd like to build a decent bench but this will do for now. Not the fanciest of benches, however suits my current needs.

    Things I like: it was quick and easy to build. Was able to knock it up in only a few hours. Originally I thought I'd stuffed up as it over hangs the doorway by 300. This however turned out to be a master stroke. I was working on some lone pieces of hardwood and they simply poked out through the door.

    THINGS THAT YOU WOULD CHANGE (in retrospect) I will prob add a slightly lower section off the side of the table
    So that I can install my mitre saw. That way the upper section will support the work.

    Things i I will incorporate next time: I'd add a storage cabinet to one side so that I can store things like screws, nails and bits and pieces.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #74
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    Dec 2013
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    Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by enelef View Post
    This is awesome mate well done, very similar to the design in my head. Is the top 90x45 or did you rip it? Any more photos?

  16. #75
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    Thornbury
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    If there are any interested peeps out there - i put most of the build detail into a blog. Enjoy.
    Can you imagine what I would do if I could do all I can? -- Sun Tzu

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