Thread: Need to make a Workbench - Advice Needed

My thoughts
I'd call what you want more a work table more than a bench . Maybe look at it like one day it will be the table that sits in front of your work bench when you get around to doing one and make it so it can evolve with later time spent on it to add some of the handy details a good work table has . What I did for a work table was to start with legs and rails that held a top and the top was added by fixing it to spacers that created a gap beneath the top and base . My top is around 50 mm thick . 25mm would be a minimum . Or two layers of ply glued together , 38mm ?. The gap is so you can clamp anything down to your top using the edge and getting clamps right under as far as they reach . And that allows the base to be filled in later with drawers and still be able to clamp things down .

The other thing is make a false top that is just 12mm ply with an edge of nailed on solid that holds it in place and stops it sliding around . It slips on and stays in place all the time for all the dirty work like gluing up, paint stripping, polishing, staining and things like that, that you don't do on a work bench. You take it off for more fine clean work like laying things out, when you need a flat clean surface to lay jigs on and set things out.
My work table also has a vice at its end that I added last and twin dog holes . I take my lift off top off to use this for clamping round tops. If you leave a end free to do a Moxon style vice at a work table end one day with twin dogs , you will have another space to add a good later project keeping in mind you will have to drill dog holes in your work table top.

Basically, just start out with a table and a top that is spaced from the base . That allows clamping and drawers to be added later. And build it so the top matched what your later work bench height will be . Not critical as it can be adjusted if you start with castor room that can be played with later. A work table that matches bench height is great when working on large things that need to be off the ground . You can have an end of the work piece resting on each . It makes a big difference being able to do that sometimes.

Rob

You said you had a piece of 30mm ply 2700 x 600; are you intending the work surface to be that long? Generally 1800 - 2400mm is ample for a workbench.

As for mobility; castors tend to be a bit of a PITA as they never properly lock up and will allow the bench to move under loads like hand sawing, planing or chiseling. There are alternatives to popping a castor under each leg but they depend on how mobile you need it to be. My work area is under a carport adjacent to my shed so almost everything has to roll out of the shed onto a narrow footpath and then onto the slab under the carport; basically a “U” shaped journey with a 1” step down from the shed floor onto the footpath. Castors feature on the heavier of my machines due to the convoluted path but lighter ones just have fixed wheels at one end and I lift the other end like a wheelbarrow. One example would be fixed wheels at one end and a single castor at the other but mounted on a lever arrangement so it only comes into play when you are moving the bench. Or you can still fit castors but then have screw down feet located next to them; move the bench into position then wind the feet down until they take the load off the castors.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

and a 30mm 2700x600 plywood sheet.

I missed that you had that to start with . 30 mm ply! That's nice and thick. What sort of veneers are in that?
Has someone glued two together?

Originally Posted by auscab

My thoughts
I'd call what you want more a work table more than a bench .

Yep, big distinction between the two, work table it is then, very over due! not sure how I've managed this far on a gate leg! .

Originally Posted by auscab

Maybe look at it like one day it will be the table that sits in front of your work bench when you get around to doing one and make it so it can evolve with later time spent on it to add some of the handy details a good work table has .

Great advice Rob, I'll do exactly that.

Originally Posted by auscab

What I did for a work table was to start with legs and rails that held a top and the top was added by fixing it to spacers that created a gap beneath the top and base . My top is around 50 mm thick . 25mm would be a minimum . Or two layers of ply glued together , 38mm ?. The gap is so you can clamp anything down to your top using the edge and getting clamps right under as far as they reach . And that allows the base to be filled in later with drawers and still be able to clamp things down .

Have you got any examples of a decent work table?. I'm thinking of 90x90mm legs to get started with and do like you said make the ends first rail and stile design. What joinery should I go for?.

Originally Posted by auscab

The other thing is make a false top that is just 12mm ply with an edge of nailed on solid that holds it in place and stops it sliding around . It slips on and stays in place all the time for all the dirty work like gluing up, paint stripping, polishing, staining and things like that, that you don't do on a work bench. You take it off for more fine clean work like laying things out, when you need a flat clean surface to lay jigs on and set things out.

I'll take that!, another great idea.

Originally Posted by auscab

My work table also has a vice at its end that I added last and twin dog holes . I take my lift off top off to use this for clamping round tops. If you leave a end free to do a Moxon style vice at a work table end one day with twin dogs , you will have another space to add a good later project keeping in mind you will have to drill dog holes in your work table top.

Any photo's of your work table Rob?.

What are your thoughts on this one?:

27023835_2101139359913139_3641515459459413938_o.jpg

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

You said you had a piece of 30mm ply 2700 x 600; are you intending the work surface to be that long?

Blimey no! , I'm thinking more like 1400x600 or around that.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

There are alternatives to popping a castor under each leg but they depend on how mobile you need it to be.

I've seen those, I'll have to look into it further.

Originally Posted by auscab

I missed that you had that to start with . 30 mm ply! That's nice and thick. What sort of veneers are in that?
Has someone glued two together?

Bunnings had it in one of their skips, it ended up falling into the back of my car.
Its a manufactured 30mm ply. I think its this one:

2250 x 600mm 30mm Plywood Pine BC Grade - Bunnings Australia

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

You said you had a piece of 30mm ply 2700 x 600

Sorry Chief, its 2250x600 not 2700.

One thing is for sure I cannot continue my current coffee table build without first building a work table.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Any photo's of your work table Rob?.

What are your thoughts on this one?:

27023835_2101139359913139_3641515459459413938_o.jpg

It could be better .

Spacers between the top and base for clamping . The spacers are screwed down to the base . The top is screwed to the spacers through the top . Lots of BIG screws . So I can clamp doors and tops Im making to the work table top and it resists cupping . Keeping the work straight and flat. I use it as a veneer press as well because of the way it stays straight .

See the gap with the spacers.
It started as a basic frame with a top and everything was added over many years . I actually rebuilt it three times. It started off as my first workbench in in 1981. So I didn't start with the space under the top.
If you start with a base and spacers for the top though its a good start. If you build it strong.
I added drawers and top and vice and wheels. If I built it again which I was considering I would build the base so my pallet jack fitted underneath . But I added the wheels at one end and use the T handle to move it . Its full of steel so weighs to much for me to move without them .


IMG_8914a.jpg IMG_8921.jpg

That's it getting that dinning table top glued up on it below. Resting on bearers . If I'm having trouble keeping the top flat the clamps go from bearers to under the work table top. Same for doors. Parquetry veneered tops get done on it because I can put a bridge clamp on blocks on each side . Because the work table top doesnt cup up the pressing down of veneers stays flat which means the veneered top stays flat . If you glue veneer to a top that's bending it stays bent when it comes out of clamps . Its probably a bit hard to explain clearly all the things it can do if you build a work table well . Its not to much extra work to do. Wish I knew what I wanted first off and I wouldnt have had to do it three times.
IMG_2777a.jpg

There it is in about 1994 after I pulled it in from being left outside and added a top and drawers to use it as a work table . And building my Jarrah workbench top on it.
img155a.jpg img245a.jpg

Originally Posted by auscab

It could be better .

Spacers between the top and base for clamping . The spacers are screwed down to the base . The top is screwed to the spacers through the top . Lots of BIG screws . So I can clamp doors and tops Im making to the work table top and it resists cupping . Keeping the work straight and flat. I use it as a veneer press as well because of the way it stays straight .

See the gap with the spacers.
It started as a basic frame with a top and everything was added over many years . I actually rebuilt it three times. It started off as my first workbench in in 1981. So I didn't start with the space under the top.
If you start with a base and spacers for the top though its a good start. If you build it strong.
I added drawers and top and vice and wheels. If I built it again which I was considering I would build the base so my pallet jack fitted underneath . But I added the wheels at one end and use the T handle to move it . Its full of steel so weighs to much for me to move without them .


IMG_8914a.jpg IMG_8921.jpg

That's it getting that dinning table top glued up on it below. Resting on bearers . If I'm having trouble keeping the top flat the clamps go from bearers to under the work table top. Same for doors. Parquetry veneered tops get done on it because I can put a bridge clamp on blocks on each side . Because the work table top doesnt cup up the pressing down of veneers stays flat which means the veneered top stays flat . If you glue veneer to a top that's bending it stays bent when it comes out of clamps . Its probably a bit hard to explain clearly all the things it can do if you build a work table well . Its not to much extra work to do. Wish I knew what I wanted first off and I wouldnt have had to do it three times.
IMG_2777a.jpg

That right there would do me perfectly!, excellent design and totally functional. Its really given me alot of food for thought now. I've done a few drawings but having seen yours I'll have to make some modifications and re-measurements taking into account everything you have said. I'll post my design idea's tomorrow for your assessment.

As always, thanks for all your valuable advice Rob.

Originally Posted by auscab

img155a.jpg img245a.jpg

I was going to ask, whats do you have on the other side, I refreshed the page and you added the last two photo's. I've seen your workbench build, goes without saying, its a masterpiece.

I decided to go old school and draw my plans upo this time though I will transfer this to the computer to get correct measurements etc. I cant see any way to improve on your cabinet design Rob, as an ex-graphic artist your cabinet fits the bill for everything a workbench table should be.

Top drawing is done in 3-point perspective.

thumbnail_IMG_9151.jpg

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

My Ikea gate leg table just isn't cutting it any longer and I'm not too happy about having to use the cabinet top as a perfectly flat surface for reference/glue ups. So I need to make a cheap but half decent workbench out of some pine 2x4's and a 30mm 2700x600 plywood sheet. I don't need bench dogs or all that jazz yet, I just need to be able to clamp stuff to the edge and assemble projects, so the surface has to be flat and maybe have a shelf underneath, maybe a bit of storage space. And the most important thing is that its mobile, so everything on casters.

Any suggestions most appreciated!.

Merry Xmas

EB, my current bench build (still underway) may be helpful …

Building a MFT



Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

EB, my current bench build (still underway) may be helpful …

Building a MFT



Regards from Perth

Derek

Nice one Derek, can the top be replaced when need be?.