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7th December 2013, 07:21 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Workbench - Benchtop Material? - What to use
Hi Guys
I have built two workbenches previously, one with two sheets of ply glued together and the other one just a thick sheet of MDF.
I want to make this bench a lot heavier and sturdier.
The legs will all be out of pine but what do you recommend for the top?
I don't want to use solid wood for the expense and I plan on using it for all sorts so I wouldn't want to damage a beautiful bench that I may make some day
I also plan on drilling dog holes all along the top and I have a bit of Jarrah which I am thinking of using for the top edging.
I have toyed with the idea of using ply and MDF in a sandwich of sorts, the MDF will give it a lot of weight but may bend etc. I will then use something like Masonite for a sacrificial top.
I also saw a sheet of finger jointed pine but it is only 2100mm long and I would like my bench to be 2400mm long.
Also how thick should I make it?
Any ideas or thoughts?
Cheers guys
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7th December 2013 07:21 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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7th December 2013, 08:03 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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I used red tongue flooring for the top of one of my benches.
Tough, cheap and available in 3600mm lengths.
From memory, the red tongue is 22mm, yellow tongue is 19mm and there's a 25mm one as well.Geoff
The view from home
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7th December 2013, 09:00 PM #3
I'd suggest researching torsion box construction. I made one from ply and it's a ripper. If you want dog holes, just put some solid timber ribs inside for where you'll want to drill through.
Craig
Expert /Ex-Spurt/ -n. An "Ex" is something that has been or was. A "Spurt" is a drip under pressure.
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7th December 2013, 09:00 PM #4
On anything but an aesthetics ground, it's very hard to beat yellowtongue/redtongue. Hard, tough, resin bonded to be water resistant, cheap enough to throw away without a second thought, and the plastic tongue comes in handy as a pull-through for ceilings and walls. The only possible alternative would be cheap formply, which would get the job if I thought there was going to be a lot of gluing on the bench.
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7th December 2013, 10:28 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Cheers guys, thanks heaps..do any of you have a photo of your workbench top that you can show me? cheers guys
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7th December 2013, 10:40 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Here's some from my bench build about 2 years ago.
The smaller bench/table has a double thickness of red tongue as it's the lathe bench.
Last picture is more recent when I finally got around to putting a bottom shelf in.Geoff
The view from home
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7th December 2013, 10:46 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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7th December 2013, 10:57 PM #8New Member
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I made one from 2 sheets of 2400x1200 17mm ply ripped down the middle. 3 pieces are laminated with pva glue for the top and the remaining piece becomes the shelf. Then put a 5mm sheet of masonite on the top. Frame is made from 90x45 pine. I think that benchtop is as solid and heavy as you might ever need.
Last edited by oziblue; 8th December 2013 at 04:12 PM. Reason: make clearer
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8th December 2013, 01:44 AM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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That does look pretty damn solid )
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8th December 2013, 01:51 AM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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hey guys I was just having a look at pictures of it on the web.
It looks like particle / chip board to me?
I thought particleboard is very weak and affected greatly by moisture etc?
Cheers
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8th December 2013, 07:49 AM #11
untitled3.jpg untitled11.jpg
Have yet to put drawer fronts etc on it. It's on my 'I'll get around to it one day' list.Craig
Expert /Ex-Spurt/ -n. An "Ex" is something that has been or was. A "Spurt" is a drip under pressure.
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9th December 2013, 01:08 AM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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I went to Bunnings today and had a look.
They had red tongue and green tongue. Except for the colour and the thickness I could't tell the difference between them.
So you think a couple of sheets of that together would be as strong as PLY or MDF?
Cheers
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9th December 2013, 04:18 AM #13GOLD MEMBER
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I think that it's the frame that needs to be heavy and strong. Bash-worthy so it won't walk around.
The top could be anything for as flat as you need it. Make the top replacable, I didn't and I regret it.
I don't need "flat" very often. I have a large, top-loading food freezer in the shop. Quite flat & white top.
So, I drew a grid of lines with black felt marker on the freezer. Those really are a big help in assembly.
My bench top is 6 x 96" lengths of softwood, probably spruce, what we call 2x6. So the top is about 96" x 33".
All kinds of 3/8" bolt holes drilled all over the place. Bolts, strap clamps, stop blocks, whatever I want to do.
Would have made a heap more sense to top it off with a sheet of 1/4", good-one-side, Douglasfir plywood.
If I had done that, right now I'd be thinking about replacing it. . . . the bench has taken a beating over the past 10+ years. 2x4 ladders and 2x6 legs for a frame, bolts and 2.5" #14 screws. The Law of Gravity holds the top in place.
Bench top bandsaw, drill press, power miter saw and router sit on the 4 sides of an island bench. Somehow, it was even more over-built = a real grunt to move for any reason.
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9th December 2013, 09:24 PM #14
In essence it is chipboard; but it's chipboard with not only exterior grade adhesive, but an added waterproofing wax as well. It's used in house construction (floors) and it's rated for 3 months outside exposure. The 19mm thick stuff is good for a load of 2 kilonewtons when supported at 400 centres. And it's only about $40 for a 3600x900 sheet.
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