Thread: a few workbench questions

Originally Posted by jzfredricks

Hi all,
Group says "hi Jack"

I'm new here, I hope you don't mind me jumping in and trying to get some advice. If there was an internet version of "wandering over with a beer in hand to chat", I'd do it...
The group drinks beer too, one ain't enough

I have this grand plan of making the greatest workbench in history, or failing that, something that doesn't fall down the first time I use it.
sounds vaguely familiar...

My plans are coming a long nicely, but I have a few questions, so here goes;

Firstly: I want a reasonably cheap bench, as it will most probably be abused. It's for general purpose stuff, but one day I'd like to try my hand at some more serious woodworking. Size will be 2800L x 900w x 875h. Free standing, with about 1m space around all sides.
900 is a very wide bench. 600-800 max would be my recommendation, but that's just me and I live in a small shed.

Bench Top;
What to use as the bench top? I'm thinking MDF. It's cheap and splinter free.
mdf (or ply) is a good choice, cheap and replaceable

I'm worried, though, with how the edges will hold up over time.
Use a skirt around the edges, no problem.

I was just going to screw it down.
Would all those screws be a pain, even if countersunk?
Yes, glue or just sit it loose is better I reckon.

Are dog holes a must? And if so, would I need a sublayer of a stronger material? or just plenty of cross-batons to support it?
If you used ply it would be ok. Mdf would suffer from the use of dogs eventually.

Should I consider MDF with a hardwood frame/edging?
Yes, see above.

Bench Vices;
Should I buy these first and incorporate them into the design, or would the average vice be easy enough to retro-fit?
Sorry, but it depends. Find your vises first, then build. Planning is king here.

Casters;
Lockable casters or not? I'm thinking no, but someone else said they are a great idea.
No. So long as you can move it when you need that is all that matters. Heavy duty castors are expensive so unless you are going to move the bench most days I would not worry about it. However, if you are building a bench that weighs more than 100kg you should consider how it is going to be moved eventually.

many thanks in advance!
jack

Jack, a few of us have work in progress threads underway at present. I suggest you wade through them for ideas (or a laugh). There is a link to mine under "Current Project" in my signature, but there are dozens of others that have some fantastic ideas in them..

Hi Groggy,

thanks for that - it helped a lot (so did the various "this is my workbench" threads I read).

Another issue that I recently thought about was this - Clamping items down onto the top.

The *top* on my current design is quite "thick", being made up of the mdf top and a base (for this mdf). All up it's about 100mm, which means I won't be able to use smaller sized clamps.

Is this a real issue? Should I just use larger clamps? Or might I regret being unable to use smaller ones?

thanks again!

as groggy said, an mdf or ply top wit a skirt around the edges is a good way to go,

iv had plans to do just that for a long time now,

in my mind, its a great idea,
but i would have the skirts glued/screwed directly to the base, and have the mdf/ply drop in, 4 screws along each side through the skirt to secure it, and a couple through the top...

that way, when i bash it up and spill various liquids all over it , its an easy unscrew pull out and replace job...

If you use mdf for the top then you can insert some hardwood for dog holes/hold downs. Just like bob has done in his bench.


The other suggestion is get a quick release vice or allow for one to be added in the future when they are on sale (or it is your wedding anniversary). Once you have used a quick release the other seem so laborious.


All the stuff Groggy said is good advice.

Originally Posted by jzfredricks

Another issue that I recently thought about was this - Clamping items down onto the top.

The *top* on my current design is quite "thick", being made up of the mdf top and a base (for this mdf). All up it's about 100mm, which means I won't be able to use smaller sized clamps.

Is this a real issue? Should I just use larger clamps? Or might I regret being unable to use smaller ones?

I reckon the older ideas are still the best. Have a look at these puppies (click the pic to go to the site).



You get two of these handy holdfasts and they are faster to use than any vise I know of (ok, so jamming a finger in a drawer may be quicker but you know what I mean). Price-wise they are good value for money. Or, you can get something like these (again, click the pic)

or these


Lots of good stuff out there, personally though, I really like the Gramercy holdfasts but harbour a secret longing for the Lee Valley Hold-Downs too.

If you have a good strong roof then goberge (go-bars) are another option. No, they are not a drinking establishment in Thailand!). Here is a link, they are the flexible poles that are holding the guitar braces down.

No, You have reasonable answers, but they do not ask the questiom as to what do you want the bench for.
Let us assume you want to do lead lighting, Why would you want dogs on your bench?
No no no. What do you want, What is your passion, How long does this thing need to last. Only you can say what you want, We can advise, but what do you want the bench for? .....

Jack, 2.8 x.900 is a great size, but if you have enough space I would go the extra 300mm to 1200. That’s the ultimate size.

Make sure you have at least 75mm all round from the edge of your top to the rail/leg for clamping, and if you do use an edge make it 60mm thick as that’s the size to fit a Record/Jet or Trupo vice. I don’t bother with an edge, as it’s just for looks in the long run.

And for the top, I would use Melamine MR Chipboard that is always covered with a 9mm MDF sacrificial top (just screwed on, or a few dobs of contact cement) I just screw mine on, 4 screws around 250mm in from the corners and one in the middle. I also circle each screw with a texta so I know where not to cut or rout.

Below is a very strong, easy, and cheapish frame to make and is rock solid. The one thing I prefer now to that frame, is to have the bottom rail 3 or 4mm above the ground. Saves it from a good spot to keep rubbish and crap.

And to finish, 2 or 3 coats of linseed oil is cheap and perfect

A opportunity to talk about benches... count me in!

The most important thing about a bench is that you are building a tool. (Doesn't mean a tool can't be art... but it is first and foremost a tool.) With this in mind you need to think about function. What do you want it to achieve? And build to that.

The top. MDF/Ply should be alright. My suggestion is build a frame to support the sheet. (Remember sheet good will sag.) And then build a skirt around the outside so that the sheet drops into to be flush with it. This should secure the sheet, give a hardwood edge, and allow you to pop it out and put in a new sheet

Size. Depends on what you want. Handtool work 8' x 2' is normal. You can't really reach across 3' to work at the back. Assembly table 4'x6' is normal. I suggest you lay it out on the floor and pretend to work on it. That will give you a practical idea.

Vices. Depends. I reckon a good quick release $250-300 model will serve you very well. (A:ternatively a sliding benchcrafted leg vice with custom handles, re-enforced aluminum angle, that's so heavy it has 4 wheels for lateral movement... but that's another story...)

And the only other thing... post some work in progress pictures!

About 6 years ago I built a small general purpose bench that has served me well to do all sorts of things.

The top is made from 2 sheets of 1200 x 600 x 16 MDF. The first is screwed to the frame with12 countersunk screws the second sheet is screwed over the top of the first so the bench top is 32mm thick. When the top of the MDF became too damaged from paint, drills, battery acid , chisel cuts, glue, saw cuts etc, etc, I gave it a quick sanding and turned it over - just like new (almost). That was about 3 years ago. Just last week i turned both sheets over and now have a new top. With another turn of the now top sheet,this should last another 6 years.

12 years out of two standard MDF sheets will do me for value.

Originally Posted by Lignum

Below is a very strong, easy, and cheapish frame to make and is rock solid. The one thing I prefer now to that frame, is to have the bottom rail 3 or 4mm above the ground. Saves it from a good spot to keep rubbish and crap. ...And to finish, 2 or 3 coats of linseed oil is cheap and perfect

Popular design Terry! Here is my redesigned wobbly old bench. Basically the only difference is I have corner blocks for additional bracing.

Corner blocks are good

Since it seems to be my mission in life.............for the top may I humbly recommend a solid core door from Bunnies.

"You may remember me from just about every other thread concerning tops for benches"

Its quick, its solid and heavy, its perfectly flat, its about twice the thickness of MDF, its ready to use (no laminating required), and its relatively cheap ($60 - $80 depending on size).

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

Since it seems to be my mission in life.............for the top may I humbly recommend a solid core door from Bunnies.

"You may remember me from just about every other thread concerning tops for benches"

Its quick, its solid and heavy, its perfectly flat, its about twice the thickness of MDF, its ready to use (no laminating required), and its relatively cheap ($60 - $80 depending on size).

I go to Bunnies at N. Parramatta just about every day looking for cheap solid core doors but have found not a one, zilch,zero, bugger all.

What am I doing wrong?

Your mistake could be asking one of the Bunnies 'Team Members'.......who likely wouldn't know a solid core door if it fell on them?

Our local MegaBunnies has stacks of these, in a range of sizes. I have one sitting in my garage ready to make up another bench - it is 2040 x 820 x 40mm thick, and cost $85 at a small local hardware store just down the road, so Bunnies should be cheaper than that.