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28th January 2015, 04:30 PM #1Sam50 Guest
My first workbench - sketchup design. Feedback / criticisms appreciated.
Hi all - first post and first workbench.
My aim was to create as much work / storage area as possible with the smallest amount of money spent.
I have no training in anything relating to this, so I'm flying blind and going off of youtube videos for guidance.
Any criticisms / advice you guys have would be valuable.
Materials are 90x 35 x 6000 pine timber $15 and 2400 x 1200 x 15 ply $56.
I won't be doing heavy duty work on the surface, which is why it's nowhere near as strong / sturdy as most of the workbenches on here. I feel that I could always reinforce it later if there is a need and I have the money.
I usually shop at bunnings, but I'll be getting timber from masters because they have no limit on free cuts in store, which will save me time + money.
Garage surfaces will be pressure washed and then painted with white paver paint for walls and ceiling and blue for the floor. It's all concrete surfaces.
Cheers!
Sam
1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg
Please tell me if I posted these pictures in the right manner so that they can be viewed zoomed in.
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28th January 2015, 04:36 PM #2.
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It would be useful to know the dimensions of the shed and the bench itself
If it was me I'd be putting the workbench up against the longest wall possible and using the end of the room for storage.
Also the shelves will need support all the way along the front or they will definitely sag.
Even end on ply about 100 mm wide would be better than nothing.
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28th January 2015, 04:40 PM #3Sam50 Guest
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28th January 2015, 04:50 PM #4.
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In that case it might be worth considering a mobile bench that can be stored at the end but can be wheeled out and placed along the long wall.
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28th January 2015, 05:01 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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- Oct 2014
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- Caroline Springs, VIC
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I like how you added the tennis ball on a string in the drawing
You will need some sort of vertical supports for the shelves. They dont need to run all the way to the ground. You can buy/make some shelf hangers. Basically just a bit of ply cut into a triangle screwed into the shelf and then into the wall. your current shelf supports which look like 90x45 sticking out from the wall will just rip the screws right out of the timber the first time you are careless about dumping a slab of beer on one of the shelves. As bob suggests, add a strip of something under/over the front edge of the shelves unless you plan on putting in lots of supports 500mm spacing....
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28th January 2015, 05:10 PM #6Sam50 Guest
Thank you, the tennis ball is precision engineering.
I like the triangle plywood idea a lot. I will be a great use for my offcuts.
The shelves are only 300 deep and the timber supports are 90x35.
I was planning on doing pocket screws - and then if it was too weak some joist hangers - and I will add the triangle plywood supports.
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28th January 2015, 05:19 PM #7
Another idea is a folding bench hinged to the wall.
http://www.ianmcintyre.com/2013/05/p...workbench.html
I did a quick google and found quite a few.
As BobL said better to work on a long wall and have the storage up the end.
Regards
John
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29th January 2015, 12:37 AM #8Sam50 Guest
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29th January 2015, 08:20 AM #9Senior Member
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- Sep 2013
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- Sunny side of Derwent River
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Maybe you could put the saw on a longer wall and move the vehicle out when you need to use the saw if it is in the way. Where you show the saw currently it will provide only 1450 approx of length either side of the blade. I agree with the comments about supporting the underside of the front of the shelves, otherwise they will just flex/sag and items will roll off and drive you nuts. Good luck with your project.
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29th January 2015, 02:49 PM #10Member
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- Apr 2009
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- brisbane, australia
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Sam50.......i agree 100% with the other posters regarding saw being relocated to the longest wall (even if this is just for the location of a mobile cutting station). Beyond the obvious benefits of allowing you unlimited flexibility with the sizes of timbers you can cut, you allow yourself to have a much higher degree of natural light directly onto the work area. There is nothing worse than being stuck in the back of the shed with natural light streaming over your shoulder and placing a degree of shadow on your work space. A good light over your work area will help a great deal - but your eye will find it difficult when they have to compete with either natural or artificial light in that work space. I pretty much started with the same setup as you have illustrated. I am in the process of shifting my work stations to be as close to the natural light as possible and will be adjusting the cabinetry to suit.
Night time work does not come into this equation as a good light will make the space comfortable to work in.
i would recommend that you revise the location of the saw station to either long wall. You will not regret it.
anyway...thats my 10c worth. Either way...good luck - the building of any work space is always an exiting adventure and challenge!
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29th January 2015, 03:31 PM #11Sam50 Guest
Ok. I'm glad I posted here because you guys have convinced me.
I will redesign the whole layout and post pics. In fact, I will post the sketchup model if anyone wants to download it.
Called brinlays today and they recommended 4L of oil based paving paint for the floor ($65) and white interior paint for the walls.
I want to paint the floor blue. My missus thinks I'm crazy, but I think this looks pretty nice:
White-Garage-Cabinet-Ideas-With-Blue-Floor.jpg
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29th January 2015, 04:47 PM #12.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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- 27,795
Mines Blue
Metal work end
Wood work end
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29th January 2015, 04:50 PM #13Sam50 Guest
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30th January 2015, 06:30 PM #14Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Location
- Belgrave Victoria
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- 40
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1st February 2015, 01:11 AM #15Sam50 Guest
Version 2 - with most of your suggestions added.
Version 2 - with most of your suggestions added.
I thought I could avoid the triangle cut plywood shelf supports by just running another length of timber along the front edge of each shelf and supporting it at the end with two vertical lengths (struts?).
For joinery, I was just planning to use my pocket hole jig for pocket screws for all of the butt joints and a few dynabolts for each furring strip. Timber screws all around. Countersunk screws wherever I can for the 15mm ply. Should this hold or is it too simple?
Version 2:
7.jpg8.jpg9.jpg
Sketchup file download:
http://ge.tt/6NXeKc92/v/0?c
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