Thread: YAWBT - My new workbench

Watching.

I don't believe that the top needs to be the full monty 4" thick, especially if it's hardwood. Holdfasts work quite well in 50-60mm. For areas that you feel you want a bit of extra heft (say a 6'2" brute with a 2kg mallet in hand, eyeballing a quivering piece of timber), you can always add some extra thickness underneath that part of the bench. Otherwise, with too much heft, the bench becomes difficult to man (or indeed brute) handle (during construction at the very least, if not in use).

For the same reason I believe the legs etc can be softwood, such as Douglas Fir.

WRT Swiss cheesing the top with dog 'oles: I know Groggy did that and doesn't regret it, but remember they can always be added as required but are somewhat problematic to fill if one discovers that their populace is a PITA (dust falling through everywhere onto whatever is stored underneath, screws with a myriad of choices to annoyingly fall through, and any other problem that holes in a bench can produce). The reach of the holdfasts is pretty good, so maybe start with a couple of rows at ~200mm intervals, and then build on that as required.

Also, the HNT Gordon tailvise is a beauty, and very discreet. Easy to fit with a recessed handle (read scone & nads saver), and pretty reasonable price.

Have you thought about making up a steel frame for your Festool table, that would make it more sturdy and also gives you the options for castors.

I still think a new bench is in order, for what you want, but it might improve the current festool table to move it around your workshop

Its very useful and will be used somewhere, somehow... I dont use all its features and doodads due to the restricted setup I have at the moment.

The biggest problems are that it doesnt have a vice, its slightly too small and its a bit too light for the more "woodworky" things Im doing now.

It may yet be sold to liberate some casshhh!!!

Excited to see what comes out of it.

Those bench screws are the business! I'm lucky enough to have those on my bench and, believe me, you'll break the bench itself before you strip or break off the threads on those bad boys.

Can't wait to see all the pictures you're going to post.
90 mm is fair thickness for a bench and it's going to be heavy as well
Are you going to have wide aprons like Mike Siemsen's bench? You probably don't need it.

Goody!! Another bench build!

Happy to accept Mark I if it turns out not perfect enough for you ;-)

At the moment it is just a bunch of ideas! You know me LoveToRide, it will be a work of art - totally unsuitable for a workshop.

I will receive considerable criticism

Just arrived this morning... they are HUMONGOUS!!!!!

How good are these?

All from IanW. Thank you! Thank you!

What an auspicious start to this journey

wood screw 2.jpg wood screw 1.jpg

IanW's giant threaded vices have been sitting here saying "usssseeee me".... "I'm lonely....."

I was on Gumtree Wednesday for a completely unrelated search and it said, "you might be interested in this...".... well, yes, yes I was!

It is an oak benchtop from the TGA here in Canberra. It is 2450x750 and 35 thick. Its pretty heavy indeed! Took my son and I to lug it and I'm no whimp.

It isn't particularly flat (as can be seen).... but I've two questions for the Brains Trust:

-- Would you prefer a long bench, i.e. 2400 if you could have it, or should I go with one that is a more standard 1800?

-- The top is finished with something unholy. It is as tough as all buggery. The 40 grit belt sander barely touches it. You can see in the photo where I've given it a blast and I can assure you it was hard going. It stank badly, a nasty chemical burning unhealthy smelling nasty... any ideas what it might be and an easier way to remove it?

I was thinking of using a router based sled to zing off 2mm or so, which would get it flat and take care of the finish. But there might be some other way I hadn't thought of!

All thoughts are welcome!!

DSC03142.jpg DSC03143.jpg



...

In regards to the build, I've been on the back foot with client orders, so a nice spanky bench was lowered down in the list of Immediate To Do's

On design matters, these are the ideas so far:

-- IanWs beautiful screws (thankyou thankyou!)
-- A Roubo style
-- Use the new oak top and use the 50mm gum underneath. Laminate them together (not a problem, for I've 6 monster Frontline Clamps). I was thinking a 75mm top will be good for my hand tool ambitions
-- Route out 50mm circles and put in plugs for the nasty holes before....
-- Im ordering the Axminster Parf Guide System for doing bench dog holes
-- Giant legs flush to the front and side skirts
-- Drawers underneath (the shelf to the left can be removed if I shove all that Festool crap underneath the new bench)

There is one truism about all benches, the bigger it is the more crap gets stacked on it. I have cut my main bench down twice to minimise this problem and pulled another apart.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

-- Would you prefer a long bench, i.e. 2400 if you could have it, or should I go with one that is a more standard 1800?

(he needs to ask?)

Originally Posted by woodPixel

But there might be some other way I hadn't thought of!

Have you ordered your planes yet?

Go long my son,
My bench is over 2400 mm in a very small shed we'll actually it's a shipping container.

And I'm sorry Chris I'm never cutting it shorter [emoji12]


Cheers Matt

Longer the better, the length comes in handy, doing bigger pieces

There is a tendency to put more crap on, but thats why you make two benches