OT Vase

**Edwards** · 12th August 2010, 02:25 PM

Massir Birch - Finland
100mm diam x 130mm high

I copied this design from a 1940 printed German OT book as I liked the form and simple OT detail.
When I produce thin walled pieces like this one I completely free hand turn the outside and leave the middle solid. If you hollow out the middle first you run the risk of the piece going out of true and ruining any chance of applying accurate OT detail. Also a thin walls will flex under the load of the cutter and cause chatter and show on the finish.
This form of pattern done on say a flat box lid is reatively straight forward as the cutter is always in contact with the surface.
This is not the case when done on the outside of a cylindrical shape like this one. The cutter is not in full contact especially at the start.
My early attempts were massive "dig ins" and dangerous. I could not find anything in books explaining how to do this. I thought it might have been my equipment and it may have been but I eventually sorted it out.
Has anyone else had problems in this area and how did you solve it ???

Cheers
Edwards

**Manuka Jock** · 12th August 2010, 02:39 PM

Thats a fine cup you have there Edwards.
Birch is great to work with eh

Top turning all round

.

Post it again in the general wood turning section.

( I cannot for the life of me see why we have these divisions in the woodturning area , we can all learn from each other )

**wheelinround** · 12th August 2010, 02:44 PM

Nice work Bronte love that timber

The idea of turning the OT on thin vessles sounds great I'll have to give it a try.
The pattern you have cut, is often done at OTGA on the outside ( I have not done it completely myself) We all get in when its being done, of course sharp tools

and we have found light cuts till depth is done. Its done at one setting locking the limiter on the vice, going around the vessel back to start reset the depth and go again.

Different cutter heads also have been tried and continue to be.

Bronte just had another though when I was doing one of my first OT works we found that the locking pin and arm for the index wheel was moving due to forces worth a look.

Bronte I have been sending you a few PM's but no reply's??? have you been getting them

Ray

**Edwards** · 13th August 2010, 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Nice work Bronte love that timber

The idea of turning the OT on thin vessles sounds great I'll have to give it a try.
The pattern you have cut, is often done at OTGA on the outside ( I have not done it completely myself) We all get in when its being done, of course sharp tools

and we have found light cuts till depth is done. Its done at one setting locking the limiter on the vice, going around the vessel back to start reset the depth and go again.

Different cutter heads also have been tried and continue to be.

Bronte just had another though when I was doing one of my first OT works we found that the locking pin and arm for the index wheel was moving due to forces worth a look.

Bronte I have been sending you a few PM's but no reply's??? have you been getting them

Ray

Ray, I assume PM's are private emails ! I may have deleted some by accident as I have been bombarded with Spam recently. Please try again as I look forward to hearing from you.
I understand your methods above and it looks to me like the guys do experience the same problem I originally had and use the steady as she goes principal. When all else fails thats good.
In the coming days I will put a sketch together and post it to show how I solved my problem. Should be helpful to others.
Regarding the movement with your Index Pin and Arm, yes that and a sloppy fit between pin and hole would be a problem. That is why I use a toothed Index Plate as all slop is eliminated by the tapered Index Pin.
Cheers
Edwards

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