Thread: Awls

I'll take #3, it'll match the centre finder nicely.

Dave, what type of steel are you using for the shafts?

Hi Doug
The steel in these Awls is mild steel for a number of reasons, it is able to be re-sharpened easily and even reshaped if a different point profile is required, is more than strong enough for the purpose and is readily and cheaply available.
I have used a very similar Awl for several years without any issues apart from touching up the point occasionally and I tested the prototypes of these before I posted them and found a the point was effective even on the hardest desert hardwoods and stabilised hard wood.
I appreciate that the purists would only accept carbon steel in woodworking tool and if the purpose of these tools is to cut wood cleanly I would agree with them but these tools are meant to scratch the wood fibres (and if a clean cut is required a marking knife is more suitable) or to create a start point for a drill or locate a lathe centre. For this I believe mild steel is an acceptable material

Thanks Dave.

I appreciate the effort you went to to provide such a comprehensive reply.

Used chainsaw round files make great awl blades.

They can be used as is as provided you realise they may snap if too much side pressure is applied although that is rarely the case for use as an awl.
Being a much harder steel the tip needs to be shaped and formed on a grinder/sander although it is likely to never go blunt although is may chip.
To first form the tip put the file into a battery drill chuck and hold it up against a metal sanding belt or disc.

To reduce their "snapability" and make them easier to form and sharpen they can be par tempered by heating them at around 250ºC for about an hour. Some (but not all - even if they say they can) domestic ovens can get to this temperature.

A purist will also remove the teeth. Again his can be done by holding them in a drill chuck and running the drill and rubbing them back at forth against a moving metal sanding belt.

Dave - if you ever need any I can give you a few.

Hi Doug
With your experience in forges and heat treating do you have any suggestions or comments on carbon steel v mild steel
Cheers
Dave

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Hi Doug
With your experience in forges and heat treating do you have any suggestions or comments on carbon steel v mild steel

Dave, I have dabbled in heat treating in a small way and am by no means an expert.

But since you asked, I think you did a great job in summing up the advantages of using mild steel in the ones you make.

Even for a marking knife you could get away with mild steel but it would need more upkeep than simple carbon steel. With an awl though, I can see the ease of being able to easily modify the point geometry would be an advantage for many and a viable argument in favour of mild steel. Obviously if you want to change the geometry often, the awl would get to be short very quickly and would be a good reason to own a second awl (or third,fourth,fifth whatever) so that you can have one of each and save a lot of time and effort.

For most things a weekend woodworker would use an awl for mild steel would be fine. The main awl that I use is made of mild steel. I didn't make it myself. A friend made it for me before I got my own forge and learned to heat treat. It got me through my workbench build and is still going strong with minimum maintenance. It's a great tool and will last me forever.

Having said that, if/when I make a new awl for myself, because I can heat treat and have the equipment to grind hardened steel, of course I would make it out of high carbon steel.The steel would cost marginally more but heat treating and tempering would not really take up much time, effort or materials (gas) because I would do the heat treat/tempering in a batch with some knives or something similar that requires the forge to be on anyway.

For small items like awls and marking knives all you would need in the way of extra equipment would be a mapp torch or similar and a small amount of knowledge.But what you are making is just fine for most woodworkers. Like I said I am still using my mild steel awl I have had for years.

Hope that helps.

Hi Dave.

I'd like to take number 2 please

Cheers
Nathan

Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Hi Delbs
Can you send a PM with your address and I'll organise this afternoon
Cheers
Dave

Originally Posted by Dave Reed

Hi Doug
With your experience in forges and heat treating do you have any suggestions or comments on carbon steel v mild steel
Cheers
Dave

Another source for hard pointy things is Concrete Nails

Awl number 2 is sold

Originally Posted by BobL

Used chainsaw round files make great awl blades.

They can be used as is as provided you realise they may snap if too much side pressure is applied although that is rarely the case for use as an awl.
Being a much harder steel the tip needs to be shaped and formed on a grinder/sander although it is likely to never go blunt although is may chip.
To first form the tip put the file into a battery drill chuck and hold it up against a metal sanding belt or disc.

To reduce their "snapability" and make them easier to form and sharpen they can be par tempered by heating them at around 250ºC for about an hour. Some (but not all - even if they say they can) domestic ovens can get to this temperature.

A purist will also remove the teeth. Again his can be done by holding them in a drill chuck and running the drill and rubbing them back at forth against a moving metal sanding belt.

Dave - if you ever need any I can give you a few.

Many thanks Bob, will be in touch
Cheers
Dave