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20th June 2017, 10:06 AM #1New Member
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Where to buy Anchorseal (or similar) to seal log ends
Hi all
I recently got my hands on some sheoak logs. I will be getting them slabbed soon but in the meantime I am looking for a way to minimise splitting as it dries.
Americans talk about Anchorseal, but I haven't found it here. What is the local equivalent?
Cheers
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20th June 2017 10:06 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th June 2017, 10:20 AM #2
Don't know if the Perth store will have it, but:
https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-...itre-endsealer
Caltex also make a product called End Seal or End Check which seems to be the choice of pro-millers here, but I think you may have to buy 20 litres.
Have a read of this thread:
Commercial and DIY End Grain Sealers For Green Wood
and:
Sealant for end of fresh cut logs
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20th June 2017, 10:51 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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I don't know where to find the product you want, and I've never actually used anything that was a dedicated wood sealant, but, ultimately, you're just holding in the moisture, and there are many products that will do that. A couple of liberal coats of enamel paint work just fine and are often times just laying around in a shed/basement. I've also just used PVA wood glue as a temporary solution.
If you'd prefer a dedicated product I totally understand, but you can probably save a bit of coin by using something a bit less specialized and get similar results. PVA glue and paint are, of course, available at Bunnings, Masters, Mitre 10, etc. (not that you didn't already know that).
Cheers,
Luke
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20th June 2017, 10:59 AM #4.
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20th June 2017, 11:02 AM #5
A minor point, but all closed last December Luke. Announced in August, and you prolly missed it in your rush to get back to the States. The store closest to me was only open for 10 months!
Yeah, I've only ever used paint which has worked fairly well, and certainly much better than nothing. Someone pointed out that it doesn't expand and contract with the timber as well as the dedicated sealers do.
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20th June 2017, 11:08 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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20th June 2017, 11:20 AM #7.
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It also doesn't pick up grit as easily. The place where I used to mill logs was next to a limestone block cutting place and the small amount of endcheck I used picked up a lot of limestone dust and general grit moving the logs around. Not the best thing for chainsaws to cut through.
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20th June 2017, 06:57 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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I have an unopened 20 ltr drum of end sealer (I forgot the name), but tend to use an oil based paint, as it is easier.
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20th June 2017, 11:49 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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I managed to get a 20 litre drum of it from the local Caltex distributor, mind you it took about 4 months to get here.
It's called Log End Sealant, product cod 1101 and has a shelf life of 12 months.
APPLICATIONS
• Control of moisture loss from the ends of the timber.
• Timber Sealer should be applied at approximately
one litre per 4 m2
, i.e. comparable to one heavy
coat of paint. However it may not be painted over
after application. Timber Sealer is stable for a
shelf life of 12 months. However, packages should
not be exposed to temperatures near or below
freezing point, as this may cause the emulsion to
break, leading to separation of the wax and water
components. Roll container before using contents.
https://www.caltex.com.au/find-a-caltex should locate a Caltex store near you.To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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21st June 2017, 09:56 AM #10Senior Member
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I would have thought that either acrylic or enamel house paint applied in a couple of thick coats would work just as well seeing as they all have a fair bit of elasticity built into them these days to allow for expansion/contraction of the substrates. We all have a few litres of old superceded colours stored away in the shed.
Stewie
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21st June 2017, 12:53 PM #11New Member
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You guys are awesome!
Thanks for all the tips. I had a feeling I might be able to get the Caltex or Mobil version of log sealer, but was concerned about the quantity required to order. I recently saw that Matthew Cremona commented it has taken him 4 years to empty what appeared to be a ~20L bucket. And that guy does a LOT of milling...
Will definitely keep the Ranford Rd tip in mind for paints, hadn't thought of that.
I am taking some logs to get milled next weekend and the bloke said he could seal the ends for me there, so that solves part of my problem. Will probably go the dodgy paint route for other small pieces until the stars align and I can buy the real deal in a suitable quantity.
Thanks heaps folks.
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21st June 2017, 05:33 PM #12New Member
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Timbecon sell a product for this in 1L, 2L, or 20L
https://www.timbecon.com.au/finishin...eck-liquid-wax
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22nd June 2017, 12:29 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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Standard practice here is to paint log ends with whatever left over acrylic paint (sticks to damp surfaces) you can find.
The concept is to slow down the rate of water loss from the cut ends. Peeling off the bark makes it more even as well.
Plus less yummy new wood for the bugs to eat when it dries.
Outdoors, under cover and not cooked in a hot shed, we plan on drying 1" thickness per year.
So a 3 inch slab ought to settle down to a Equilibrium Moisture Content of 12 - 14% in 2+ years.
Probably matters less for wood carving than it does for the dimensional stability in furniture.
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