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Thread: Wanted: Scrub Plane
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18th June 2020, 08:32 PM #16
Unless you are attempting to dress really rough and twisted boards, you are better off with a jack plane (wood or metal #5) with a 10-12" radius blade. I cannot recall when I last used my scrub plane. The boards I need to flatten are never that far gone, and jack is all that is needed.
A jack is easy to find. Indeed, you can use a battered #4 or woody with an open mouth (quite common and cheap) to create a suitable plane.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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18th June 2020, 09:21 PM #17
I agree with Derek. I haven't used my scrub much since seriously cambering a #5. I did use it recently when I wanted to take 1/4" thickness off a panel that was wider than my thicknesser and I had great fun mowing through the board but quickly overshot what I needed to leave in order to clean up with the cambered #5.
If you are dimensioning rough timber and have access to a jointer and a thicknesser I don't think there really is much need for more than a #5, but then again it's hard to describe the fun of using a scrub. If you're dimensioning rough timber without a thicknesser and jointer then you're also a masochist and you'll probably enjoy the pain of paying for a new one.Franklin
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18th June 2020, 10:24 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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taz: there is a Paul Sellers video on converting a Stanley 78 (which can be gotten for 30 bucks on ebay) into a scrub plane. He says it is the best he has used.
I did one, and wow.
What improves it over a converted number 4 or such like is that because it is quite narrow you can get a huge scoop with ease. I am talking half a mm at a pass. Plus the narrow-ness means you can be a little more precise in small areas. It is also very light and sturdy because of the cast handle.
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18th June 2020, 10:40 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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They are good points fuzzie although it I think it merits saying that if you're a hobbyist the advantages of doing by hand are:
1. Space - not only for the machines, but the outfeed you need, plus the dust collection.
2. Related, maintaining machines you might only use once or twice a weekend is all extra work. If you're using hand planes for all sorts of things and keeping them sharpened, tuned and rust free then all the equipment is essentially free.
3. Noise/dust - if you're a hobbyist doing something for enjoyment and without a deadline, you can dimension a board by hand with the music up and a toddler happily stumbling around.
4. Work at night-times / early morning / being neighbourly. For the Dads in inner suburbs they can sneak the task in at nighttime, early mornings and weekends. I get on great with my neighbours and try and avoid any loud noise. Even on a Saturday, who wants that noise blasting across their fence while their neighbours might be entertaining.
5. You are always going to need to be able to flatten one side to a degree so the thicknesser doesn't follow any bowing or cupping etc. If you've got everything set up and out on your bench for one side, you can just keep going on the other side.
6. Surface quality - no snipe and if the stars align then no tear-out or further work required.
This noted, I do see a portable thicknesser in my future. But I am putting it off as long as I can.
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6th July 2020, 01:58 AM #20
I've still not bought a Scrub. Is everyone of the opinion that a scrub is a bit redundant?
I read Dereks review here only tonight --> The Veritas (Lee Valley) Scrub Plane
It was shown as a top result on DDG - pretty amazing really....
BUT!! I pulled apart a pallet today (first work in a looooooooooonnngggg time!) and it was all old-growth American oak. Amazing timber, but strewth it was hard. I used the Veritas LA smoother, extra sharp, but crikey it was hard work. Only one single slat made nice.... I'll try the Jack tomorrow.....
HAND TOOLS! They make you SWEAT on a 3° day!!!!!!
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6th July 2020, 02:55 AM #21
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6th July 2020, 03:11 AM #22
I wrote that 15 years ago. This was before I owned a jointer or thicknesser. Much of the timber I had up until then was twisted and very hard old roofing beams. In the more "modern" world, the scrub sits on a shelf largely unused. It is too coarse a plane for the levelling I need to now do, and a jack plane with a 11-12" radius serves me better (by comparison, the scrub has a 1 1/2" wide blade with a 3" radius).
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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6th July 2020, 10:53 AM #23
Very interesting. I was lucky enough to have a forum member offer his LN Scrub to me for sale. I've not yet taken it up*.... I hesitate not from price but potentially function** .... Perhaps a LV over a LN?
As illuminated here, one could use a (spare!) blade from the Jack.
Its bad news to hear such a learned woodworker change their mind I was So Keen to acquire a scrub.... especially after reading this....
Could one substitute a re-treaded smoother as a scrub? Well, with a suitably cambered blade it will work, but it will not hold a candle to a dedicated scrub plane, certainly not the LV.
Finally, it was also my intention to illustrate the scrub plane in action since I suspect that many woodworkers do not use one and therefore cannot appreciate its value. Even if one uses a powered thicknesser to dimension rough stock, the scrub plane offers one the ability to quickly true up twisted boards, even if this is only in preparation for the powered tool (since a planer can only follow the line it is given, removing irregularities in boards is first necessary). For others like myself, who do not own a power thicknesser, the scrub plane makes the job of converting rough sawn into dimensioned timber less formidable, if not fun.
Such good reviews!
** do I? Well, maybe I a chronic vacillator and procrastinator
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6th July 2020, 11:05 AM #24
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6th July 2020, 03:17 PM #25
Hi Evan
Well, my comments (your quote) remain valid. Perhaps the rough stuff I get today is worked by the jack well enough, or I've leaned to use the machines better.
I'm more concerned about your mood at this time. PM if you wish to discuss this. The forum is not the place.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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