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Thread: Box #2 S#&t

  1. #16
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    Sorry I have not responded but my 2yr old son hurt his arm and demanded more daddy time than normal.


    Quote Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
    Rum Pig,

    I'm sorry you had problems with Box No. 2.

    A couple of suggestions:

    - when you jam-fit the lid onto the base, use tail-stick support until the final finish cuts. And when you do, take it easy! Tape always helps and try to keep the final fit for the lid until last. That way, your jam chuck should hold. When I brought the tail stock up to the lid it would not line up with the impression made when turning between centers so it kept bowing the box slightly but enough for me to notice. I tried to remove the dimple but that is when the Frisbee practice started.

    - as an alternative, use the nylon jaws. $25 a set while you're learning isn't a bad investment. (Some of the masters here discourage their use, but it only takes a fraction for a jam-chuck fit to be .1mm out.) Where do you buy them from

    - the walls on the base remain too thick. A 2mm or less flange is more than enough to seat the lid into. (I think you have it the other way around). I've done it myself!I know the wall is still to thick but it is thinner than the first so I'm getting there but moer practice is needed

    - your hollowing techique is Raffan-style, not the Ken W method (I think??) What are you using to hollow the end grain? Ken W suggests a long and strong spindle gouge, either with or without a depth hold bored with a drill bit. With this box I used a 10mm square parting tool it worked well. The first box I hollowed it with a bowl gouge and finished with scrapers but I think I like the parting tool better.

    As you say, stick with the basics. You're doing so very well thus far - and I suspect you haven't got the expert support that others like Tea Lady and myself have had. I have a expert by the name of Ian to call on but I was trying to work through this challenge by myself and the help of people on this forum like you

    And what sort of tools are you using? Especially when you fit the lid. This is a contentious area, as many turners do it several different ways. Are the tools sharp? And how to you check for parallel? The tools are sharp and I check for parallel by using spring calipers like in Raffan's DVD. As for the tools I use well it is a case of what ever I have and I think will do the job but for this box it was mainly bowl and spindal gouge and skew chisel.

    Sing out if you have any more problems. Too many of my first 30 odd little bowls and boxes flew out of the chuck all too frequently - and that takes all the pleasure out of it. ( always tells me to analyse when something goes wrong. It's good advice.) I will do thank you and it sound like good advice to me.

    Keep them coming. I have a passion for little boxes, both the arty and practical ones. And there is so much to learn.... Just check out Andy's box (and the mistakes he purportedly made). This is a long journey, I just hope you enjoy it.Yes I'm starting to develop a addiction to making box's so you should see a lot more coming from the rum factory
    Thank you to every one for your supportive words
    Cheers Rum Pig

    It is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.

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  3. #17
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    Hey RP...hope your shorty gets well soon
    Cheers,
    Ed

    Do something that is stupid and fun today, then run like hell !!!

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rum Pig View Post
    Sorry I have not responded but my 2yr old son hurt his arm and demanded more daddy time than normal.



    Thank you to every one for your supportive words
    Rum Pig, sorry but I don't know how to reply to all your comments. (You obviously know more about responding to quotes than I do!)

    So, I hope I don't miss anything....

    The nylon jaws I referred to are for Vicmark jaws - check with Jim Carroll. I like them, though my masters do not.

    As for hollowing end-grain boxes, I assure you that the Ken W method is the best. I've tried the Raffan approaches (both!), pre-drilling then using scrapers (including my Ci1 Rougher), bowl gouges etc. But Ken's method using a L & S detail / spindle gouge is almost completely safe and very, very fast when you gain some confidence with it.

    I posted somewhere on how WWW (Wraight, Weird and Wonderful) does it, but can't find it.

    So if I summarise quickly:

    - pre-drill a depth hole using tailstock and drill bit (I don't do this anymore, but WWW won't teach anything that's not safe. I simply mark the spindle gouge for depth and shove it in).
    - with your lathe running fast, gouge flute tilted at 45 degrees facing you, pull from the centre hole to the outside
    - take 1-2mm passes (and more when you get confident)
    - when you near the side grain, push the handle away from you. If you don't, the hollow will match the bevel angle on your chisel
    - when you hit the side grain, you'll notice immediately the difference in the cut.

    The main benefits in this approach are:

    - if you slightly under-cut from the middle, the end grain is always supported, giving a much superior finish off the tool
    - thus you scrape and sand less
    - it's fast. (Slow at first until you get cocky).

    What else did I miss?

    But don't listen to me - I'm an absolute novice and I hate Rum.

  5. #19
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    Thanks for that info Jeff
    Does Ken w have a DVD on his method of box making?

    I think I understand the technique you are describing so I will give it a go. How does it work on hard wood ( I mean hard like iron wood)?

    One thing I learnt teaching apprentices is that not every one is suited to one technique so I always try as many way to do something as possible.

    I do not know if I should say that I feel sorry for you or not but I guess if everyone liked gods nectar there would be less rum for me
    Cheers Rum Pig

    It is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.

  6. #20
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    I think this video on YouTube by bobham5 is the same technique except he doesn't drill a hole first:
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijZ8Ph8KWcw"]YouTube - End grain hollowing with a 1/2" spindle gouge[/ame]
    Keith

  7. #21
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    Thanks for the link Keith
    I can't watch u-tube at work so I will have a look at home but I'm only on dial up there so I do not know if it works. If does not work I will let you know.
    Cheers Rum Pig

    It is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.

  8. #22
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    Same technique is also on Mike Darlow's DVDs.
    Keith

  9. #23
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    The link shows the cut well. I mainly hollow very hard wood, so my spindle gouge has a much smaller piont. This allows me to take much smaller cuts. When hollowing hard wood, avoid cutting the side grain of the box with the long cutting edge. Only use the first couple of mm of the tip.
    Ken Wraight.
    Turner of the weird and wonderful.

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