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Thread: Box #2 S#&t
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18th August 2009, 10:28 AM #16
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18th August 2009 10:28 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th August 2009, 12:33 PM #17
Hey RP...hope your shorty gets well soon
Cheers,
Ed
Do something that is stupid and fun today, then run like hell !!!
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18th August 2009, 11:07 PM #18Retired
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Rum Pig, sorry but I don't know how to reply to all your comments. (You obviously know more about responding to quotes than I do!)
So, I hope I don't miss anything....
The nylon jaws I referred to are for Vicmark jaws - check with Jim Carroll. I like them, though my masters do not.
As for hollowing end-grain boxes, I assure you that the Ken W method is the best. I've tried the Raffan approaches (both!), pre-drilling then using scrapers (including my Ci1 Rougher), bowl gouges etc. But Ken's method using a L & S detail / spindle gouge is almost completely safe and very, very fast when you gain some confidence with it.
I posted somewhere on how WWW (Wraight, Weird and Wonderful) does it, but can't find it.
So if I summarise quickly:
- pre-drill a depth hole using tailstock and drill bit (I don't do this anymore, but WWW won't teach anything that's not safe. I simply mark the spindle gouge for depth and shove it in).
- with your lathe running fast, gouge flute tilted at 45 degrees facing you, pull from the centre hole to the outside
- take 1-2mm passes (and more when you get confident)
- when you near the side grain, push the handle away from you. If you don't, the hollow will match the bevel angle on your chisel
- when you hit the side grain, you'll notice immediately the difference in the cut.
The main benefits in this approach are:
- if you slightly under-cut from the middle, the end grain is always supported, giving a much superior finish off the tool
- thus you scrape and sand less
- it's fast. (Slow at first until you get cocky).
What else did I miss?
But don't listen to me - I'm an absolute novice and I hate Rum.
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19th August 2009, 09:09 AM #19
Thanks for that info Jeff
Does Ken w have a DVD on his method of box making?
I think I understand the technique you are describing so I will give it a go. How does it work on hard wood ( I mean hard like iron wood)?
One thing I learnt teaching apprentices is that not every one is suited to one technique so I always try as many way to do something as possible.
I do not know if I should say that I feel sorry for you or not but I guess if everyone liked gods nectar there would be less rum for meCheers Rum Pig
It is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.
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19th August 2009, 10:33 AM #20Participent grade 2.54
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I think this video on YouTube by bobham5 is the same technique except he doesn't drill a hole first:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijZ8Ph8KWcw"]YouTube - End grain hollowing with a 1/2" spindle gouge[/ame]Keith
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19th August 2009, 12:37 PM #21
Thanks for the link Keith
I can't watch u-tube at work so I will have a look at home but I'm only on dial up there so I do not know if it works. If does not work I will let you know.Cheers Rum Pig
It is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.
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19th August 2009, 02:53 PM #22Participent grade 2.54
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Same technique is also on Mike Darlow's DVDs.
Keith
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19th August 2009, 11:31 PM #23Senior Member
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The link shows the cut well. I mainly hollow very hard wood, so my spindle gouge has a much smaller piont. This allows me to take much smaller cuts. When hollowing hard wood, avoid cutting the side grain of the box with the long cutting edge. Only use the first couple of mm of the tip.
Ken Wraight.
Turner of the weird and wonderful.