Thread: Air supply reticulation

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

So, I’m getting to planning the setup of the new workshop, and I’ve seen lots of reference to using poly line for the main air runs. Is this just normal 20 mm blue stripe poly like I have here for the water tank lines? Do they use the same proprietary fittings for air? If so Im off and running as I have half a roll lying behind the boatshed already. Thanks.

yes you can use this but it needs more supports so that it does not dip in between the supports where water can collect. This prob can be minimized by using combinations of.
- placing pipe run on as slope which leads to a drain
- using a dehumidifier/separator
- using takeoffs that go up before the go down

Originally Posted by BobL

yes you can use this but it needs more supports so that it does not dip in between the supports where water can collect. This prob can be minimized by using combinations of.
- placing pipe run on as slope which leads to a drain
- using a dehumidifier/separator
- using takeoffs that go up before the go down

thanks bobl I knew you would know about it. I’m thinking I’ll just fix it under (or in) the cable tray that will go the length of the shed right through the middle or tie it at 500 intervals to the 250 ducting, then have droppers from there and presumably a drain point at the very end? And for take offs I guess phil-mac tees with a 1/2” bsp female thread to take a ryco fitting?

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

thanks bobl I knew you would know about it. I’m thinking I’ll just fix it under (or in) the cable tray that will go the length of the shed right through the middle or tie it at 500 intervals to the 250 ducting, then have droppers from there and presumably a drain point at the very end? And for take offs I guess phil-mac tees with a 1/2” bsp female thread to take a ryco fitting?

Cable tray is a good idea as this will keep it flat - we used sloped lengths of top hat section and sat the pipe inside that - see [icbelow.
The numbers of drain poets depends on the length of the pipe.
At the mens shed we had drain points about every 10 m
At the mens shed we used takes offs that point upend ever but this only works if you have the room above.

RetciAir.jpg

You will get some improvements by take off that post sideways but that gets complicated.

Avoid cheap fittings as they eventually corrode and leak, and narrow hoses as they restrict flow.
1/4" hose is an absolute dog, I'm using 3/8 and even 1/2" on a couple of my hoses.
As far as fitting sizes go I initially used a mix of 1/4 and 3/8 - the 1/4" have very poor flow, 3/8" are better but if you use 20mm ID pipe then I would get 1/2" fittings especially for any high air flow applications. Cheap hoses also eventually go stiff and become a PITA.
I installed my system 2011 with mix of cheap and slightly better quality fittings and within several years the cheaper fittings started to leak. Eventually I got sick and tired of tracking and fixing leaks so in 2018 I systematically went though and replaced all of the outlet fittings with Nitto 1/2" Hi-cupla, "one-touch" fittings. These are really nice as only one hand is required to remove a fitting. I got mine from Blackwoods and they were very reasonably priced considering the quality. For hoses I use 3/8" or 1/2" fittings. All the Nitto Hi-cupla series/sizes will fit each other.

I got my 3/8 and 1/2" hoses online and only after I bought them did I find Pipeonline (the ducting people) had really nice flexible hose for less and you didn't have to buy a whole roll as they sold it by the metre - well they did at the store - don't know if they ship part rolls.

You can read about my OTT adventures reticulated compressed air upgrade last year here Humidity measurements in compressed air