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  1. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    Missed the last post about your leg. Hope you are better.

    My father had a clot in his leg and was told to eat more onions. After the operations.
    Interesting - I love cooked brown onion and raw red and spring onions.

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  3. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    You are correct the melamine is currently the outer shell but will be covered by Colorbond. In terms of the colourbond vibrating, a few well placed screws should stop that. However I do like the idea of a soft gasket and will have a look around and see what I have in my stash.
    Bob I think the best way of getting rid of the vibration noise would be to fit some legs onto the DC so it is sitting on the ground & not the frame of the shed, if that is possible. If not, I would go for isolation springs or rubber waffle pad.

    Regards

  4. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basilg View Post
    Bob I think the best way of getting rid of the vibration noise would be to fit some legs onto the DC so it is sitting on the ground & not the frame of the shed, if that is possible. If not, I would go for isolation springs or rubber waffle pad.

    Regards
    Thanks Basil.

    I should be able to fit some legs at one end and use isolation springs on the other

  5. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    You are correct the melamine is currently the outer shell but will be covered by Colorbond. In terms of the colourbond vibrating, a few well placed screws should stop that. However I do like the idea of a soft gasket and will have a look around and see what I have in my stash.
    Might I suggest a HD foam panel about 1cm thick, sized to fit each door? This might serve a dual purpose, gasket and additional sound insulation on top of the melamine.

    You have a reasonably powerful DC there Bob, and I guess it's not easy to diminish the sound as much as one would want. Of course. manufacturers could probably do a lot more to ameliorate the sound from their machines, but that might eat into the profits!!

  6. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by wun4us View Post
    Might I suggest a HD foam panel about 1cm thick, sized to fit each door? This might serve a dual purpose, gasket and additional sound insulation on top of the melamine.
    I'm pretty sure the doors are not the problem. It seems to be coming more from the side walls probably because the DC is mounted on the side walls.

    I spoke to one of the acoustics guys at work and he said I definitely need to decouple the DC from the walls. I have worked out a couple of things to try and I'll be having a go at these soon.

    You have a reasonably powerful DC there Bob, and I guess it's not easy to diminish the sound as much as one would want. Of course. manufacturers could probably do a lot more to ameliorate the sound from their machines, but that might eat into the profits!!
    As far as the naked DC goes, at 80dB at 1 m it's actually not that loud. Even though it's 3HP It's quieter than my 2HP at the milling yard. But the neighbors entertainment area is just 15 m away on the other side of the fence so I do need to make an effort at getting it as quiet as possible.

  7. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I'm pretty sure the doors are not the problem. It seems to be coming more from the side walls probably because the DC is mounted on the side walls.

    I spoke to one of the acoustics guys at work and he said I definitely need to decouple the DC from the walls. I have worked out a couple of things to try and I'll be having a go at these soon.


    As far as the naked DC goes, at 80dB at 1 m it's actually not that loud. Even though it's 3HP It's quieter than my 2HP at the milling yard. But the neighbors entertainment area is just 15 m away on the other side of the fence so I do need to make an effort at getting it as quiet as possible.
    Didn't realise the unit was mounted on the walls; the advice seems quite logical then, albeit I'm a babe in the woods in the subject.

  8. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by wun4us View Post
    Didn't realise the unit was mounted on the walls; the advice seems quite logical then, albeit I'm a babe in the woods in the subject.
    Yep - on reflection 'twas indeed asking for trouble.
    Currently Lip "L" sits on wooden brackect "B".

    My plan is to remove both L and B and reinstall the top part of the original legs from the DC stand/trolley (as shown above). The legs won't be long enough so I will have to add ~500 mm extensions to them so the legs can stand directly onto the the ground. I will also have to cut away parts of the baffle so the legs can pass thru the baffle and make sure Il cut away enough so the legs will not touch the baffles and then seal up the holes with circular pieces of foam. The legs passing thru the baffle box will slightly decrease the size of the air exit but that is already 4.2 times greater that the area of the intake so it should be OK.

  9. #143
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    Bob

    Good plan , but as you have sufficient space in the baffle for air flow, I would suggest reducing the size of the baffle slightly so you can place the legs outside of the baffle. Having the legs inside is likely to cause turbulence, which may be a greater problem than the reduction of cross sectional area.

    Regards

  10. #144
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    Not sure either - is there some way/possibility of "hanging" the unit eg on short chain from the bracket rather than a "hard" attachment as it currently is.

    It may do nothing or it could help isolate vibration.

    Just a thought.

  11. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob38S View Post
    Not sure either - is there some way/possibility of "hanging" the unit eg on short chain from the bracket rather than a "hard" attachment as it currently is.

    It may do nothing or it could help isolate vibration.

    Just a thought.
    I asked the acoustician at work about chains and he said the legs would be better. I have a pair of legs from an old exercise machine that look like they are big enough and will need minimal adapting.

    I would suggest reducing the size of the baffle slightly so you can place the legs outside of the baffle.
    I'll try the legs and see how it goes and then take it from from there.

  12. #146
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    Hi Bob,

    Might be talking out of my hat, but, before you start the big job on the new legs, what about putting some isolation pads under L on top of B. By isolation pads I mean some thick softish rubber strips or blocks. Something to isolate the vibration from the walls. They are often found on compressor units and big industrial fans for the same purpose.

    Maybe give it a try, it might work enough to save you a lot of work. Just a thought, if I understand the problem correctly.

    Cheers
    Pops

  13. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pops View Post
    Hi Bob,

    Might be talking out of my hat, but, before you start the big job on the new legs, what about putting some isolation pads under L on top of B. By isolation pads I mean some thick softish rubber strips or blocks. Something to isolate the vibration from the walls. They are often found on compressor units and big industrial fans for the same purpose.

    Maybe give it a try, it might work enough to save you a lot of work. Just a thought, if I understand the problem correctly.

    Cheers
    Pops
    I tried that already with both soft (doubled over mouse pad) and hard rubber pads but both still conduct most of the vibration ie , I can feel the vibe in the walls. The hard rubber is no different to the DC sitting on the wooden supports. The soft rubber is a little better but with the DC weighing in around 85 kg it just crushes the soft rubber down too much. It may work better if the soft rubber is thicker but making the support legs is going to be quite an easy job.

  14. #148
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    Hi Bob,

    Look forward to seeing the leg job. Hope it does the trick.

    Cheers
    Pops

  15. #149
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    The naked DC is 80 dB at 1 meter.
    With the DC inside the enclosure it is 75 dB at one metre from the enclosure and 72 dB at 3 m but it's hard to measure because the sound is trapped in the alleyway between the back fence and the shed and the meter reading varies depending on where it's pointed. I still have not lined the rest of the enclosure with all the sound absorbing materials. Inside the shed (just on the other side of a naked fibre-cement wall) its 70 dB. Once that shed is lined I expect to get it down a bit more.
    Since Sunday I have
    - clad the front of the doors with color bond to protect the melamine from the weather
    - improved the sealing on the doorways with some synthetic rubber window gasket material and
    - patched up the cracks with "Nop Mpore Gaps".
    It's far from airtight but I'm quite pleased with the improvement in the sound attentuation

    The result is a 5 dB reduction all round;
    70 dB @ 1 m from the enclosure
    67 dB @ 3 m from the enclosure, and
    66 bB @ the neighbors fence line.
    65 dB inside the shed.

    I still haven't decoupled the DC from the housing as I wanted to get the colorbond on in case it rained which it did this evening just as I was putting the last bit of flashing on the doors.

    Have also located some serious foam for lining the inside of the enclosure.

    I have a week of holidays next week so I will build an new set of legs for the dc so it can stand inside the enclosure without touching the enclosure frame.

  16. #150
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    By the time you have finished and achieved the external sound level you are comfortable with, you will be able to write "An Installation Manual for the Mounting and Soundproofing of an External Dust Collector".

    This could prove to be a little money spinner on the side, Bob.

    Woops, shut my mouth, everyone already knows the secrets!!

    Seriously though, you may be leading the way in improving what is a bane to us, sound deadening of fixed installations.

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