Thread: BobL's shed fit.

Originally Posted by Basilg

Well done Bob. It will be very interesting to see what difference adding the legs & foam makes.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Now, you will need to add a running light in the shed, so you don't knock off at the end of the day and leave the DC running

Good idea - I have to move the magnetic start switch from the side of the DC motor to inside the shed so I may build it into the Mag switch housing as it is a pretty large switch.

Originally Posted by wun4us

By the time you have finished and achieved the external sound level you are comfortable with, you will be able to write "An Installation Manual for the Mounting and Soundproofing of an External Dust Collector".

This could prove to be a little money spinner on the side, Bob.

Woops, shut my mouth, everyone already knows the secrets!!

Seriously though, you may be leading the way in improving what is a bane to us, sound deadening of fixed installations.

Manual, certainly - I can do that, but as you say more for convenience as anyone that bothers to read the whole thread can work out what I have done anyway.

There are many ways to reduce sound and what I have done is just one way. I am really interested in Mini's enclosure design using a stud wall with 18 mm MDF cladding sandwiching compressed cardboard. Unless one comes across assorted pieces of foam like I have (I picked out another cardboard box full out of the skip at work yesterday) then buying foam or specialized acoustic foam is very expensive.

This enclosure has cost be almost naught for materials
- Colorbond and tek screws came from the stash of 14, 2.4 m long Colorbond sheets the shed builders left behind.
- Pine framing (45 x 70 and 35 x 90) I picked up out of a skip on a building site (with the builders permission) - I was surprised at how much pine framing (~55 linear metres) was need for such a small enclosure.
- 32 mm thick sheets of melamine came from a reno at my brothers office.
- 16 mm chipboard I used for internal lining and the baffles came from the box my combo thicknesser/planer came in.
- fibregalss insulation cam from leftovers of shed construction
- foam came from mattresses picked up at side of road from council hard rubbish collection days and from a skip at work.

The things I paid money for are
- a couple of packets of short and long galv wood screws,
- half a dozen 3/8 x 4" galv bolts
- 3 lengths of galv flashing - although I have a tip for using offcuts of colorbond which I will post with the next lot of photos
- 2 barrel bolts
- some paint to match the color of the colorbond, I have used very little of this and can use it when touching up the rest of the outside and inside of the shed.

Well done. Some of us, including me, are born collectors and hoarders.

The sound control system using cardboard sandwiched between MDF sounds good, particularly if the cardboard is corrugated and compressed enough to retain some air. Trapped air is a good insulator of heat and cold, and it follows that it would also be good in sound insulation.

I have finally finished the cladding for the Dc enclosure and putting a second lick of paint on it and here is the last photo just to round out the series.


All subsequent discussion of this enclosure and messing about with setting up the ducting etc I will take up in a new thread in the Dust Control forum.

Very neat - nice job.

A little/lot too late perhaps - opening the doors to empty/service the unit is a problem due to the proximity of the fence - just wondering if you gave a thought to a sliding door/s which would parallel the fence and give you full access.

Just what you needed to hear when you are finished - I'm sure.

Originally Posted by Bob38S

Very neat - nice job.

Cheers Bob.

A little/lot too late perhaps - opening the doors to empty/service the unit is a problem due to the proximity of the fence - just wondering if you gave a thought to a sliding door/s which would parallel the fence and give you full access.

Just what you needed to hear when you are finished - I'm sure.

Yes I did think of several door designs including sliding and, what my old enclosure had which was, bifold doors. One thing I wanted to help keep the noise under control was doors that sealed really well. Given the doors weigh 45 kg each and are 107 mm thick, unless something like a van sliding door mechanism is used it would not be easy to seal sliding doors. Also I would not be able to use a colorbond trimdeck type external cladding material so easily on a sliding door and it was useful to make the enclosure look like part of the shed.

For doors that are 107 mm thick, to get all 3 doors to slide to one end means a sliding door mechanism that is 321 mm thick - this then starts to eat up into the space in front of the enclosure. I could have made 2 doors instead of one but then each door would weigh 67 kg.

All 3 doors are on loose pin hinges so I can completely remove the doors if I need to.

Originally Posted by BobL

Cheers Bob.

..

All 3 doors are on loose pin hinges so I can completely remove the doors if I need to.

I understand your thinking - it appears that you have solved it anyway by being able to remove them.

Just line up a neighbour to give you a hand when you lift the 45kg door as it could easily get away on you in such a small area.

I posted some more about my Ducting setup in the Dust forum - in case you miss it - here it is.

I added some legs to the DC so that it would be free standing and not have to be supported by the enclosure frame.

At one end they look like this.
legs1.jpg

The top half is from the original DC frame while the jarrah pieces for the base come from a stud wall I removed out of the old shed when I joined the old and new shed together.

At the other end the legs have to pass thru the baffle so they look like this

legs3.jpg
Nothing much to see with this one - just the legs passing down thru the baffle.

Legs as viewed from the baffle exist.
Legs2.jpg

There is no measurable impact on the air speed which is primarily limited by the use of 6" ducting at the front end of the system.

The outcome of all this is definitely less rumble outside - enclosure is not vibrating as much
but meter regsiters only 2 dB less at the neighbors fence (64 dB) but I'm happy with this.

Now that some of the ducting is installed inside the shed, the hissing noise from the ducting dominates the sound both inside and outside the shed. Inside the shed the noise has increased a little and is now around 68 bB - still better than having the DC inside the shed. It depends where in the shed one is measuring. For example placing the dB meter in front of the open 6" port alongside the lathe registers 74 dB while it is around 70 dB at the lathe operates ear.

I have to stop messing with it now and get on with some other projects.

In the middle of the metal work section I have place a set of map drawers which has masses of tool storage. It looks like this and is detailed in post #14 of this thread.
enclosure.jpg

As shown above the drawers are too low and really would be easier to access if they were lifted up off the ground by some 250 mm eg placed inside a frame with a bench top on on it.

Recently at work there was yet another lab refurb and I scored 3 lengths of 900 x 2400 x 32 mm tassie oak lab bench tops so I welded up a 32 mm SHS/angle frame and placed on of these bench top on the frame this is what it looks like.
Table2.jpg
The top was covered in dented and scratched 2-pack epoxy which I stripped off this evening with a 40 grit Makita 4" belt sander. I then had to stop because otherwise the neighbor woudl be asking questions.

Here's another shot. The Jarrah side shelf is for a tool box also with sliding drawers.
Table1.jpg

The different coloured board in the middle of the top kinda spoils the look but I have to keep reminding myself that this is not a pretty bench but one I will be laying out metal work projects and fixing chainsaws on.

The drawers are now at a much better height plus I oiled the drawer bearings and now they are much smoother and easier to access than before.

Looking better, and if it works better then that's what you want.

Love the map drawers - great reuse and will probably serve a better purpose than the original.

Any bets on how long before one of your shins has a blue bump on it?

Originally Posted by Bob38S

Love the map drawers - great reuse and will probably serve a better purpose than the original.

Any bets on how long before one of your shins has a blue bump on it?

They will just join the other 2 or 3 other bruises I have on them at any one time.

Coupl'a coats of BLO brings it up nice. I now realize it's not all that flat - I'll have to take to it with the No. 7.
Table3.jpg