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Thread: BobL's shed fit.
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17th May 2011, 12:38 AM #31
A stereo is an overlooked thing I reckon, and the added dust it will get adds to the atmosphere. I'm still using an old $1 radio from a garage sale - and pales in comparison.
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17th May 2011 12:38 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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17th May 2011, 09:08 AM #32
I had our old stereo lined up for my shed which about two months away in the building, but my son slipped in under the radar and had it installed before I could say, "Oi!"
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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17th May 2011, 09:09 AM #33
Now that's not fair
and me with a dead ampregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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17th May 2011, 11:54 AM #34
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17th May 2011, 04:41 PM #35.
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I agree that dust will be an issue.
However.
a) the stereo is located high up almost under the roof so there is less of a space from which dust can settle
b) the stereo is located in the metal work rather than woodworking section. The MW end of the shed will have an exhaust fan that I can use when welding and grinding etc
c) The wood working machines will be connected to a a 3HP DC with 6" ducting
d) A serious HEPA air filter will be employed to keep a lid on the dust.
And even after all that if it dies it owes me nothing.,
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17th May 2011, 07:52 PM #36
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18th May 2011, 12:39 AM #37.
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Metal rack time. I keep the long stuff under the house but inside the shed I have a lot of shorter stuff. I don't want to be constant groveling under the house for bits and pieces and I don't want to be cluttering the ceiling shed up with stuff otherwise it blocks the lights and most of it is too short to go up there anyway. I also want a place to put my long chainsaw bars.
The rack is made of 5 x 50 mm strap and 12 mm rod for the brackets. The top of each strap clips behind a major roof truss and then it is just tek screwed into the miniorb and galvanized girts. There is also a stronger bracket on all six straps about 100 mm from the floor also made from 5 x 50 mm strap. The section of wall it's on is 2.4 m high x 3 m long. where heavy stuff and sheet metal can be stored. The section of wall free from brackets is where I will be storing sheet metal.
Here is the naked rack. The brackets sit in holes drilled through the strap and are they lightly welded in place. The holes are drilled so the brackets sit at 5º above the horizontal and have a slightly hooked end made using a lumpy and a big piece of steel U section I use as an anvil.
nakedrack.jpg
The rod brackets are covered in 13 mm black poly pipe .
plasticcoated.jpg
A partially stacked rack
stackedrack.jpg
Section for short bits
smallbits.jpg
Bits shorter than this go into material specific plastic crates that will be stored under a work benches.
Once I had it set up I realized that I could just throw a board on a pair of brackets next to the DP and , hey presto! - a shelf that would be very convenient to place some of my drill bit collection.
drillbits.jpg
I think I will be using the same idea for a timber storage rack when I renovate the old part of the shed.
All up 18 m of strap and 10 m of rod and handfull of welding rodsLast edited by BobL; 1st October 2019 at 06:51 PM.
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18th May 2011, 01:52 PM #38SENIOR MEMBER
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In the shed at my last place I just used a cardboard box over the amp and cd player. Just cut a few holes in the sides. kept most of the dust off but I wasn't doing woodwork though. You need anouther pr of speakers though. that way you can space them around the shed so the volume level is reasonable even where ever you are in the shed.
bollie7
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18th May 2011, 01:54 PM #39.
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18th May 2011, 02:38 PM #40
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18th May 2011, 02:52 PM #41.
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18th May 2011, 09:50 PM #42BobL, please STOP building your racks/shelves NOW!! In all seriousness, I only have your safety in mind when I say this. I have some major concerns regarding your use of 50x5 flat (mild steel?) as a vertical stud.
You really need to look at it in the same manner as a house wall with timber studs. The strength and load carrying capacity is determined largely by the depth of the stud and not just the material it is made from.
A pair of 90x45 timber studs in a house wall are capable of supporting reasonably heavy weights because the down-force of the load is counter-acted through a 'section' that is 90mm deep(behind gyprock). It does not take a great weight to buckle a 'section' that is 5mm deep, regardless of the fact that it is steel.
Wendy's Triton racks are mounted to timber studs extending down to floor level. Whilst they are not aligned as per a house wall, they do provide an initial 45mm backing between steel shed girts, and the Triton rack itself gives another 30mm(?).
In summary, Ruffly Rustic's racks have a timber and steel stud with a combined depth of 75mm. Yours has 5mm.
Please don't take my word for it. I've only been a member here for a short time compared to many. Ask some of your mates, here and at home, what they think.
Shed shelves especially tend to become overloaded, despite our best intentions. With a bigger space between them, this is an open invitation to excess weights
.
Please have a look at the pics in Wendy's thread, which does go back a couple of years, and then come back with your version. Hint: minimum 50x25 RHS behind the 5mm flat. Aligned same as a house wall of course; for the depth of stud. Don't rely on the cantilever action as with the Seatainer: you need to stitch weld the flat to the RHS then use high tensile 12mm nuts and bolts to attach RHS to truss. Without the stitch welding it wont work as required.
Only thinking of your safety mate.
And while I am at it, that truss to join the two sheds needs to be done to specs. You will be removing a column at the middle of the skillion ridge line after all. Hate for the whole new shed to fall on ya.
Tom
Sorry for the hijack BoomerangInfo. Trying to move it, but you should still take notes.
Last edited by Tom the Tin Man; 18th May 2011 at 10:15 PM. Reason: Can a Mod please move this to 'BobL's shed fit' thread
Little by little the night turns around
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19th May 2011, 10:33 AM #43.
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While the strap does go all the way to the floor the strap is well and truly attached to the wall through the miniorb and into the girts and now also bolted to the truss above.
I have done a test weight using my 125 kg and I can hang off one of the brackets with just a slight flexing of the bracket and strap. There is no way I will be putting this kind of weight on the brackets of this rack. It is not a stock rack but a "left overs" rack as the stock I buy is usually 6+ m long and will not fit on this rack.
My full response to Tim's post is here.
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22nd May 2011, 11:47 PM #44.
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Although I worked from dawn till 8 pm both days there's not much visible progress.
I spent most of saturday installing a variable speed drive (VSD) on my metal work lathe and started setting up a cutting coolant tank for it.
The VSD install is detailed here.
On sunday I made some shelves for some old cupbopards and then spent most of the day installing a breaker box and rerouting the wiring for the old shed so I can knock down the walls between old and new shed.
Then I did a bit more work on a 1.2m long redgum bench top for one of the shed cupboards. Seems like a shame to use it in the shed but I have dozens of these under my house and in teh milling yard and what else am I going to do with them? I'm not going to sell them - they are from a tree I planted in 1978 and had cut down and milled in 1998. The bench tops will be literally 3 metres from where the tree used to stand.
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23rd May 2011, 10:05 AM #45Try not to be late, but never be early.
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G'day Bob, is the redgum you're talking about Marri, or an eastern states tree?
Geoff.
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