Haha all good mate, it’s worthwhile info!
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Haha all good mate, it’s worthwhile info!
Took Friday off and worked on tidying up the workshop then spent the rest of the weekend working on dimensioning timber so I can make a bench grinder stand. Actually doing a smaller version of the Nicholson knock down bench so I can work out the kinks before I start on making my full size bench.
Got the legs glued up this morning and the aprons dressed in preparation for next weekend. Then I squared up some hardwood and put together some panel clamps I bought a while back, will need them when I glue up the tops for the grinder stand and workbench. Feels good to finally be putting all my machines to work, actually filled both bags in the dust collector over the course of the weekend!
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More progress on the grinder station! Just need to fix the top in place and it’s all done.
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Finished the grinder station and installed some Dexion shelving on the back wall. Also added some smaller shelves and a tool chest this weekend. Just need to do a bit more rearranging and tidying up and then I’ll start work on the dust extraction runs.
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Filling in the last couple of things I wanted for my plane collection, in the last week I’ve received a Stanley 79 Side Rebate and a Lie Nielsen 112 Large Scraper plane. Happy fella!
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Nice refurb - looks as good as new!
:q
Liking the Vicmarc sharpening setup, Bueller. Have you used it previously or is it a newie?
Hi Bueller. I have a couple of Waldown stand-drills for parts if you get stuck. You will love the Waldown even more once you get the VSD fitted - see mine here:
(https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/s...oming-219443/2.)
By the way, how do you remove any rust from your machinery and bits& pieces?
Below is a before and after of doing electrolysis using an old 'manual' car battery charger and some soda ash in a bath. Positive hooked up to a piece of rebar and negative hooked up to the chuck. Cheap and very effective. With no metal damage. Just important to make sure parts are properly dried / oiled after especially things with moving parts like chucks. I didn't bother with a full take-apart. Just plonked it in like this. I got an old Brobo Waldown drill press and used this method for all parts/nuts+bolts before paint. Don't suppose you've got a spare drill press table you'd want to part with? Sorry for the thread hijack!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardenfast
Attachment 430381Attachment 430382
I'm a big fan of electrolysis for rust removal because it completely strips the rust but it does leave a very active surface prone to instant re-rusting, so some sort of protective covering is needed almost immediately (within hours) after the object is removed from the electrolysis tank.
If the objects are suited to oiling this is easy enough, otherwise you need to be prepared to paint right away.
Using a carbon rod as the positive electrode produces A LOT less mess than using a steel which also eventually gets covered is rusty looking slime that stops the rust conversion and needs to be wiped off for the reaction to continue.
If washing soda, or safer still "foot bath salts" (available at supermarkets) are used, the resulting solution can be safely disposed of.
The other danger is hydrogen gas production which is reduced if lower voltages are used. What really matters is the current which is controlled by the surface area of the object and the concentration of the electrolyte. I typically use <6V and a concentration that produce a current of 5-10A as this produces a lot less Hydrogen
A couple of other options are
Organic acids;
These include vinegar, oxalic acids.
If the rusty object is soaked in these acids and the acids are too strong they will attack and remove metal.
Dilute solutions are OK but slow, provided you don't completely forget about them and come back months or years later a find the object badly eaten.
They are OK in dilute forms but slow, if you don't want to lose any metal these should be painted or wiped onto the rust surfaces but multiple applications are usually needed.
Once again the surface is active and needs immediate attention.
Passivators
These include phosphoric and tannic acids, and convert rust to an outer layer that varies in rust resistance.
The most common (cheapest) example is phosphoric acid which leaves a blue/black layer of rust resistant iron phosphate.
Tannic acid (one excellent commercial product is called Fertan - also very expensive) leaves a rust resistant black layer of Iron tannate.
Again soak objects at your own risk, dilute solutions are safer, but the safest/fastest way is as a wipe on.
The advantage of these is that once the rust is passivated the object can be left un-oiled or unpainted for weeks or even months before new rust develops.
Commercial versions may contain surfactants to help the stuff stick to dirty surfaces so if pure acids are used then the objects need a good clean first.
The surfactants will sometimes generate an uneven (lumpy) surface which doesn't look so good under paint etc
I've made my own Tannic acid solution at about 1/4 of the cost of commercial versions and really like the even black look it produces but it is not as robust as the phosphate so if the object is handled or bashed about the protective tannate layer will come off but this is not a problem if left alone or oil or paint is applied.
Chelating agents
The most common one is soaking in molasses
This is very safe as the metal substrate is not attacked in any way.
You can and even may have to leave it soaking for months to remove deep rust, and besides being slow, it's messy and smelly.
If the object is washed after the rust has gone it will rust again.
Thanks for the offer mate, I’m about to start putting the press back together so if I need any parts I’ll give you a shout. Rust removal depends on the type of surface usually, anything with reference surfaces will get Evaporust but I’ll use a wire wheel often on stuff I’m not precious about.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardenfast
The Vicmarc grinder is new to me, absolute game changer for my shed.
Sorry I meant to add those to the summary. Yep they are both chelators. They are much more active than molasses so are much quicker - neither are cheap though.Quote:
Originally Posted by QC Inspector
I always feel obliged to add a comment or two when the subject of electrolysis is raised. Like BobL, I am a big fan of this process, but there are some issues most of which Bob has already covered.
My take is that it is most suited to solid metal objects. Using a stainless steel electrode may produce chromium hexavalents, which are potentially nasty. However in a well ventilated space and the limited application most of us are likely to encounter it may be relegated to "insignificance." The process does leave a grey tinge to the metal, which may not be an issue for many applications particularly if it is to be painted. For objects such as hand saws it is a no no! The substitution of carbon rods for the sacrificial stainless steel, as Bob suggests, may avoid the hexavalent issue.
Regards
Paul
Sorry to spoil your nice thread Dan, I think we should quit the electrolysis discussion and if anyone else wants to follow up we start a new thread about it.