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  1. #31
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    Why is everyone so bloody narky about this?

    I'm only offering suggestions that I know work. The Amaxi is a professional solution. Anest Iwata sells the best gear in existence. The copper trap is used in a dozen good spray shops I've been to... Plus I was offering airbrushing as an example. These guys are on the tools all day and can't afford inclusions.

    The pros certainly use professional dryers, but these cost an absolute bomb.
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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Bob, we routinely ran 1/2" drive impact guns here and 1/2" will not supply themat anywhere near full torque on the gun and my Titanium CP gun will just laugh at it. My die grinder just simply slows down on anything less than 3/4" main supply so your figures say one thing I guess but my on the job experience says another. BTW a 20CFM compressor is supplying the system. That you don't like the fridge idea surprises me not one bit.
    It sounds like you might have had have something else restricting the 1/2" line. Like you said in another post the gotcha is the fittings used can make a big difference. With any small hoses it's important that fittings connect over and not inside the pipe/hose. Like I said just going from 0.5 to 0.45" will drop the pressure/flow significantly and going to 0.25" fittings will really kill the flow.

    RE: Use of Fridge. I'm sorry you took offence to what I thought was some mild constructive criticism that might be useful to others, especially in a DIY setting.

    WoodPixel, RE: the Amaxi system what are the restrictions imposed on the flow especially as it starts to load up?
    I looked at the link your provided but it doesn't say anything about pressure loss and flow.
    I realize it depends on usage but how often on average do you change the rolls?
    Can you take a photo of the used rolls next time you change them?
    I'm surprised that small bits of dust from the toilet paper don't get swept up in the air flow.

    My tank auto drain valve works well to remove water from the tank but once the compressor has to run continuously (especially on humid days) there is some water coming through to the small water trap I have just before the plasma cutter.
    I have a standard size SS water filter holder that is not being used that was thinking of setting up as an air filter.
    There is plenty of metal in the bottom of the filter to add a water release valve.

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    WoodPixel, RE: the Amaxi system what are the restrictions imposed on the flow especially as it starts to load up?.... I realize it depends on usage but how often on average do you change the rolls?
    Not appreciably. Given that the rolls are so cheap (as mentioned, bulk of Amazon and they are the good ones!) I change them "after a while". I'd imagine more serious users/painters would change them frequently, but its sort of a case of when I remember....

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I looked at the link your provided but it doesn't say anything about pressure loss and flow.
    No, that wasn't/isn't mentioned anywhere, nor the fact they use toilet rolls. I had to write to them and ask what the filtering medium was! The chap who runs the business is quite responsive and open.

    There are several different types of these things spray guys use. They all use a desiccant medium (Do Not Eats!) that needs regular replacing, which is expensive for a small DIY. Apparently the toilet rolls are just as good.

    Interestingly even on Anest Iwata's site and several forums I haunt make no mention of losses. Those forum members are like here, they debate everything To Death! For them not to mention it is interesting, obviously it doesn't turn up on their radars.

    The device is huge, much bigger than what the photos intimate. It fits two rolls.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Can you take a photo of the used rolls next time you change them?
    Will do! They are pretty foul! The compressor end is very nasty. The output side is quite clean.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I'm surprised that small bits of dust from the toilet paper don't get swept up in the air flow.
    There is a fine mesh on both the input and exit sides. Ive used good rolls from day one, the Quilton rolls are quite free of bits. I've never shot out a chunk... yet....

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    My tank auto drain valve works well to remove water from the tank but once the compressor has to run continuously (especially on humid days) there is some water coming through to the small water trap I have just before the plasma cutter.
    I have a standard size SS water filter holder that is not being used that was thinking of setting up as an air filter.
    The Amaxi is simply a container to hold toilet rolls and force the air through them. No reason why a creative dude like you couldn't replicate it easily enough.

  5. #34
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    What size inlet/outlet does the Amaxi Phase 3 have, can't see it anywhere??
    If it's 1/4", would that restrict the airflow????
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    What size inlet/outlet does the Amaxi Phase 3 have, can't see it anywhere??
    Standard NITTO.

    I put it right next to the compressor via a 50cm line. My standard blue line runs from that (it's nothing special).

    My only air tools are fine pin nailers, staple/pinners and a bunch of professional HVLP spray guns and airbrushes (but I mostly use a cute desktop portable for these).

    I get 90 psi continuously at the gun. I set the regulator at the compressor to 100. I regulate what I need at the gun for fine tuning.

    I don't run air sanders or grinders, but a real HVLP gun doesn't tolerate a fluctuating supply. There is nothing worse when you are laying down a perfect coat and get a dip. Grrrrrr!!!!

    As a line cleaner and moisture trap, it is 100% effective. Again, Pro paint shops have better setups and obsess over moisture, but these dudes turn over Serious Bux.

    Tomorrow I'm doing a HEAP of spraying. I'll do a before and after of the Amaxi with fresh rolls.

  7. #36
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    Apologies to OP for hijacking the thread!

  8. #37
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    WP, do you remove the inner cardboard core from the toilet rolls? If so how?

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Standard NITTO. I put it right next to the compressor via a 50cm line.
    It would be more efective the further you get it away from the compressor, to give the air a chance to cool down, and the moisture condense to water, so that the filter can absorb it.

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    It would be more efective the further you get it away from the compressor, to give the air a chance to cool down, and the moisture condense to water, so that the filter can absorb it.
    I'll do that. At the moment the plan was to mount it to the wall next to the compressor. Its currently just crammed in a gap to keep it upright! I've a 2M (?) length of "pigtail" hose. I'll use that.

    BobL, the cardboard is retained. The inlet and outlets sits in the middle of the rolls "fat" (i.e 1/2 way on the white bit). The in/out are diagonally opposite so to force the air through the greatest quantity of material. Leaving the cardboard in place forces the air to travel via the paper, not find a shortcut through the centre (???... my supposition)

    I saw the post before on the thing from Machinery warehouse. It is very clever. I think the Amaxi trumps it, as if you look at the shape of it, its slightly conical/tapered on each end. The ends of the rolls are pressed/wedged tightly into the ends of the cones. I use the Kleenex Complete quilted rolls (https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07C3Y2C4V/), for they are super absorbent, generous in size and seem to be best for air filtration (again, another unscientific personal opinion!)

    It is a disarmingly simple device, but I personally think it's very cunningly designed. Its apparent simplicity is in contrast to its extreme effectiveness. It is much bigger & heavier than one would assume and the plastic it's made of is meaty.

    Please, my healthy approbation is that of a fan. I'm no shill. This device has made my job of spraying a joy and saved me from the expense of a "real" solution (i.e. $3000).

    BTW, I didn't get a chance to spray today. A head gasket to replace on my daughters boyfriends POS car which died from the heat! Tomorrow perhaps!

  11. #40
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    Thanks WP - makes sense.

    I found my SS water filter holder. It's a Cuno brand so it's a quality item with a solid brass head with a threaded hole that can be used to fit a pressure meter to check output pressure. The filter holder itself is SS and has a threaded plug underneath that can be fitted with a tap to drain water. It was all pretty grubby with some surface corrosion but 10 minutes in vinegar in an ultrasonic bath fixed that. It uses 1" in/out BSP fittings so have fitted a 1" to 1/2" adapters and am picking up some HiCupla 40 - 1/2" airline fittings for it in the next day or so.

    It's a bit too narrow to fit even the smaller toilet rolls so am going to try a standard sediment 0.5 micron water filter as I already have these on hand for my under sink water purification system for my coffee machine. Cost wise these would work out about 2-3x more expensive as the toilet rolls but I don't expect it to absorb much water like the toilet rolls but for the filter media surface area to further condense water vapour which should then fall to the bottom of the filter chamber and then be periodically drained so the filter should not need to be changed very often. So its more like a much larger version of the standard small air filter/water traps than the Phase 3 filters.

    If it fails to work I can use the airline fittings elsewhere and will have spent <$10 on it.
    It it drops the humidity levels sufficiently I might then try a spa filter. These are a bit more expensive than standard water sediment filters but can be cleaned and re-used.

    As usual I can't resist a measurement or two so will be testing the temp and humidity levels, ie atmospheric, and the air direct from the compressor before and after the filter.

  12. #41
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    The pro spray shops also sell a marble sized DoNotEat water adsorbant. It is simply replaced periodically.

    My daughter works in a jeans shop. She brought me TWO shopping bags FULL of the small packets that all the clothes are packed in. It was less than a weeks trading.... They just throw them out! So perhaps a quick word to a local rag retai to save them for you?

    I cut one open and they are quite granular. No powdery residues. As an experiment, try them cut open and then left in their baggies?

    I'd imagine a suitable sized container, like your gas cylinder, filled with them to percolate through (inlet at bottom?), would offer some reduction?

    I'd be keen to see how your measurements come out!


    Edit: these, they are 4mm beads. They turn blue when saturated. https://www.amazon.com/DRY-Replaceme.../dp/B019NN1GBG

  13. #42
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    If you buy the one that changes colour when it needs drying out you know when to put it in the oven to refresh it. A small quantity of the coloured ones can be mixed with a bulk supply of the clear ones.

    If you use one of the clear mains water filters and add the drying pellets to the outside of the filter it is easy to see when they are exhausted and you get the benefit of the extra filtering.

  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Edit: these, they are 4mm beads. They turn blue when saturated. https://www.amazon.com/DRY-Replaceme.../dp/B019NN1GBG
    Actually they are blue when fresh and turn pink when saturated.

  15. #44
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    Because I'm installing my filter in series into the compressed air trunk line, and I want to (for reasons I won't go into here) be able to easily remove the filter unit and return it to the trunk line, I have decided to connect it using quick-fit fittings and two short lengths of hose. To maintain full flow in the trunk line it's important to ensure the fittings and and hose used match as closely as possible the size of the trunk line otherwise you will create a flow bottle neck.

    My trunk line uses 1/2" galv pipe (which is actually 5/8" ID) and because there are no budget level 5/8" fittings and 5/8" pressure hose is hard to come then ideally one would go to 3/4" fittings and hose. However 3/4" fittings are pretty exxy so I have decided to go with 1/2" fittings and hose.

    The common DIY level Nitto or Nitto style fittings come is 3 sizes, numbered as 20, 30 and 40, and are designed to suit 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" ID hoses or BSP fittings.
    All 3 sizes have the same (1/2") ID at the quick-fit end so they are interchangeable but they have different IDs at the hose or BSP end.

    This photo shows what the 3 sizes look like at the hose or barbed end.
    From L to R the IDs are 1/2", 3/8 and 1/4" ie Nitto size 40, 30, and 20.
    IMG_3510.jpg

    Virtually all of the compressor fittings at places like Bunnings and SupacheapAuto etc are 1/4" hose or BSP fitting. If you use these in your trunk line don't expect a very good flow rate.

    Occasionally I have seen an purchased the 30's at Supacheap Auto. However, I have never see a 40 size in these stores. You can find them online or from places like Blackwoods and they are not outrageously expensive.

    What size fittings and hose you use between the trunk line and the tool or application depends on your usage. For pumping up the wheelbarrow tyre or blowing down the lathe chuck 1/4" ID hose with size 20 fittings are fine. However if you use an air tool you probably should be using at least a 30 fitting and a 3/8" ID hose and in some cases you may need to be using the 40's.

    The other place I just realised where all this can become bottle neck is back at the at the compressor itself.

    Some cheaper/small compressors only have a 1/4" pipe coming directly out of the tank so it's kinda pointless using larger fittings and expecting too much out of it. If your compressor has a a larger size tank exit and you want to maximise the flow, any valve, junction, hose, or fitting should be size maximised.

    I just had a look on my compressor and while it has a 1/2" BSP tank exit, it then has a 1/2" to 1/4" BSP reducer to suit 1/4" Tee piece to which is connected a size 20 Nitto quick fit. The other side of the Tee connects to a 1/4" BSP pressure gauge and 1/4" BSP discharge valve.

    Well, that's all going to be changed. Fortunately I already have most of the bits, just need to buy another Nitto 40.

  16. #45
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    I think that you may find that the flow limiter in all of the nitto fittings is the quickfit mechanism so if you are doing some measurements would it be possible for you to measure the flow restriction of each of the different sized fittings.

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