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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Macksville
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    Default How to Fix Leaky Shed

    Only a minor inconvenience compared to others along the coast at the moment, but still need to get it fixed. My shed (garage) is built from Besser blocks, which are very porous which get wet on the inside during heavy rain. With around 1m of rain over the past week I've had about 20mm of water on some parts of the floor around the walls.
    If the rain ever stops & it dries out I will need to either paint it or apply some sort of sealant to the outside of the walls & am after any recommendations on a suitable product. TIA

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Geelong
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    279

    Default

    This sort of stuff Crommelin 15L PRO-400 WP Roof And Wall Waterproof Membrane

    we used a black tanking product looks brown in the tub but dried black, gluggy and sticky to apply but works a charm.

  4. #3
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    Apr 2013
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    Default

    Thanks for that wrongway, but I should have mentioned that there is around 130 sq metres of walls to be done & with that one covering between 1.6-4.8sq metres/L per coat, could get very expensive. Was hoping for something with more coverage/L. Also, if it's a dark colour I'll have to paint over with a light colour to keep the heat down.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Little River
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    75
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    1,096

    Default

    Have used this type of product to waterproof cracked concrete water tanks. Can't remember the exact brand or where I got it but it was in Melb. I don't think that the cost was exorbitantly high. You dilute it with water, brush it on the concrete and the leaks stop.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Shepparton
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    Default

    When I built my first house in far north Queensland it was a priority to seal the besser bricks, the sealer was a clear silicone based product can't remember the name it was in the seventies and Im lucky to remember my name.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
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    422

    Default

    I have used clear silicone liquid as a sealer and it worked well.
    Good luck

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
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    8,178

    Default

    Any good quality exterior paint system will do the job well enough, and you can roll on another coat very quickly if you don't let it deteriorate too badly. The weakest link are the mortar joints and it sounds as though you have a lot of weak links at the moment!

    There are a zillion blockwork houses in North Queensland, and it rains there a bit, so you can be assured that all the advice above re:slapping on a coat of something will work.

    I would stay away from the silicone type seals mentioned above - while they do work as a water repellant, but are generally not noted for UV resistance and the first sign you get that they are breaking down is the damp appearing inside once again. As an added bonus - silicone is a "bit troublesome" to paint over should you wish to pretty up the place in the future.

    A high-build type coating is a bit more expensive, but will last the distance. For a Rolls-Royce job that is "almost" set and forget have a look at something like Armour | Rockcote which you can get (along with reasonable advice) from your local Bunnings.

    Cheers,

    P

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    61
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    957

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mature one View Post
    When I built my first house in far north Queensland it was a priority to seal the besser bricks, the sealer was a clear silicone based product can't remember the name it was in the seventies and Im lucky to remember my name.
    Good chance it was Thompson’s Waterseal , does that ring a bell?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Shepparton
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    336

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    Sorry Beardy I haven't a clue as to what it was called only that it was very good as a clear sealer.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
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    3,320

    Default

    I had this problem at my previous house.

    Brick and besser block building essentially have two built in defenses against water ingress:
    • There is a damp course low down to stop rising damp - moisture rising from the surrounding soil, and
    • There are air vents down low (just above the damp course) and up high, often into the roof cavity, which will promote airflow to dry any dampness from the wall cavities.


    My small besser block shed was fine for ten years then quite suddenly it got mildewy - the parapet wall became constantly damp and water oozed onto the floor along it. A new neighbour had done some "landscaping" and piled soil about a metre high along the wall, way above the height of the damp course, had a watering system working frequently and our shaired wall acted as a sponge, leaking into my shed. He declined to remove the offending soil. The council said he should not have built the "berm" (threir word), but also declined to do anything - "Its a private matter". Lawyers at 50 paces????? A property we had long admired came on the market, so we bought it and moved.

    First thing that I would do if I was in your position, Woollybugger, is check that there is nothing compromising the damp course including verifying that there is good drainage around all four walls of the shed, well below the damp course. Next I would check that air vents are not blocked so that there is a nice drying draft in the cavity.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    On recommendations from a company that specialised in waterproofing, we used this product on a brick wall section of our house that is double brick but with no cavity. There are also no eaves so it cops a hammering. Water just beads off now.

    FDFC202F-9858-421A-8DFF-EDE905F0D35A.jpg

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    SE Melb
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    62
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    1,186

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    On recommendations from a company that specialised in waterproofing, we used this product on a brick wall section of our house that is double brick but with no cavity. There are also no eaves so it cops a hammering. Water just beads off now.

    FDFC202F-9858-421A-8DFF-EDE905F0D35A.jpg
    It sounds like its a silicone based repellent. Does it need periodic recoating?

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    4,179

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by justonething View Post
    It sounds like its a silicone based repellent. Does it need periodic recoating?
    Donít know. There is no mention of recoating after a time period. I guess itís just a matter of - if it stops beading, put on another coat?

    Iíll email them and ask and get back to this thread.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    72
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    2,840

    Default

    Some good products here
    Bondall Multi-Surface Waterproofer
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Macksville
    Age
    59
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    316

    Default

    Thanks for the suggestions guys. The main problem with these is the $$$, with the suggested coverage I'm looking at $1500-$2000. I had a close look at the walls today & noticed some fine cracks between the blocks & the morter, so think I will probably need a thicker coating product, rather than the penetrating type. I think the shed is around 30 years old.
    Would something like Berger Jet Dry paving paint work? Just to throw another nut tightening device into the works, one end wall is only 15-20m from the river, which is normally salt water.

    20210326_160223 (1024x576).jpg DSC_0875 (1024x576).jpg

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