By all means get a contractor in to check it out, and maybe quote it. But it"s a reasonably simple job of putting in some timber or metal railings across/in to take the sheeting, saving yourself some more money for tools, by doing it yourself.
Kryn
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By all means get a contractor in to check it out, and maybe quote it. But it"s a reasonably simple job of putting in some timber or metal railings across/in to take the sheeting, saving yourself some more money for tools, by doing it yourself.
Kryn
That changes things - if you're looking at having the job done by a contractor, a rebuild is probably going to be the better option. Most sheds here are lined and fitted out by their owners as a labour of love so things get done that you normally wouldn't want to pay for and a contractor wouldn't want to quote on due to likelihood of unforeseen issues.
Plus given you don't have any warranty on work you do yourself, you can do things the way that's convenient rather than the way that's "right" (provided it will do the job).
Have a squizz at my thread to see how I've lined mine. Still working on it three years later though lol - just got rained out for the morning (sheet cutting area is currently the back lawn...) but getting there. Almost finished.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/t...orkshop-203050
What would be worth seeing is the size and structure of the shed frame itself.
If its just light angle or box section in may not be able or worth trying to attach much weight to it.
One to the things I paid extra for in my shed was decent posts and roof trusses that allow me to hang all manner of stuff from the walls and roof.
Hi FlaminGunz
Do not knock it down until the planning approval process is totally completed. I do not know the planning rules for your part of Melbourne, and I am not uptodate on our local planning rules as they changed recently.
But the old planning rules here had two alternative sets of rules:
- If you were upgrading or extending an existing shed then one set of rules applied.
- If you were building a new shed then a different set of rules applied.
The second set of rules were much more restrictive than the first. The differences related to maximum site density, proximity to boundaries, choice of cladding, neighbours perspective, etc.
If you knock the shed down too early then you may get caught by the second set of rules!
Cheers
Graeme
I agree. My old shed was closer to the boundaries than the new rules allowed for so I kept it and built a new one along side the old according to new rules. Then I knocked down the wall between the two sheds and insulated and lined both so they look like one shed on the outside. Technically that means I have modified the old shed and should have abided by new rules, but according to the planning bloke at the council so far the council's spy cameras aren't able to see inside :)
Got the chance to take some pics - https://imgur.com/a/mQTYuL5
Feels sturdy, a got of gaps in the tin and clearly it's an old structure.
Do you think it's worth keeping and just sealing, insulating and installing chipboard as an internal structure or demo?
I'd keep it and insulate (including the ceiling) and line it - just block up the gaps during the lining process.
Unlike a lot of modern sheds it has half decent roof trusses. These are invaluable for storage and hanging this from and between, eg power lights, dust ducting etc.
It looks like you have a lot of space outside so an alternative would be to keep the old shed for storage and dirty work etc and build another one up along side the old one.
Agree with Bob.
You are in Melbourne - hot summers, drizzly cold winters - so insulation is important for your comfort and to allow epoxies, etc to dry. At least R=3, preferably R=4+. Shop around!
The best, and often amongt the cheapest shed linings is yellowtongue flooring. It is very strong and you can hang anything from it.
Think about wiring before you line. Almost everyone wants more lights and more powerpoints, at some stage.
Finally, are those waterstains on the concrete floor? Will you need to improve drainage outside or even raise the floor above run-off level?
Wish my shed was as large and as uncluttered as yours !
Cheers
Graeme
Problem with those roof trusses is I scrape the top of my head against them, they're pretty low - I'm 6'2
Thanks for the tips and product options will look into it and make sure it will work.
I didn't look to hard at the concrete actually. I do see there's plenty of gaps at the bottoms of each side and imagine the roof probably isn't watertight given the age....But will check it out. I'm guessing if I seal it all up properly I should avoid too many issues there..
Also so think about wiring after you line for the same reason.
As it’s a garage/workshop when I lined mine after 40+ years power was run in conduit for protection at the top of the walls and to switches, lights and power points. That way if any changes or additions are needed at a later date (and there will be) it’s a lot easier and you won’t have to worry about hitting hidden wiring when screwing things to the walls.
I honestly dont think it's worth keeping for a few reasons
1. it's clearly not suitable for you if you are hitting your head on the trusses. I'm 6'3 and that would drive me crazy over the long term
2. it's not a very nice structure if we're being honest. I dont see that you would have any issue with knocking it down and re-building.
3. it's going to be an endless money pit trying to seal, insulate and create a comfortable environment with the existing structure.
I would first check your councils development plan. They are readily available online and reasonably simple to read. If you need assistance the council planning team can help. Typically you will not have an issue building a garage on a boundary, however, it looks to be many many metres away from the boundary which is to your advantage. You can keep the facade which is again to your advantage as the streetscape does not change.
If you have the funds to re-build another structure then go for it.
Hi
Unfortunately, I think Samo is correct.
I tried to think of some way to raise the trusses and the roof, but there really does not seem enough structure in the walls in your photos. Perhaps the low trusses are planning related? There used to be a planning rule here that structures with wall height of less than two metres were exempt from planning rules! (I know that sounds contradictory)
Cheers
Graeme
I too would be cautious about spending much on it, mainly because the low truss height is always going to be an issue. It's also lightly framed so I'd be reluctant to add any additional dead load to the roof by lining it.
If you don't plan on moving from the house and can afford to replace it, I'd personally lean that way.
Even if you are going to hit your head on the trusses, it can still be used as a useful storage space if you can build a "proper" shed nearby.
Thanks for the additional perspectives. That was my original concern, am I going to spend too much $$$ and time on it and never truly be happy.
I'll have to call the local council, can't find any solid info online about garage construction laws in my area.
Do you think it's worth building a timber structure on the existing slab, with the help of a contractor. Or buying a pre-fab tin shed and lining/insulating it?
I'd like to keep the existing slab, to minimise the cost and needing full construction permits...hopefully. I think it's too big to do on my own, so would need to get someone in to help. It's just trying to decide on what sort of structure to put there